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Old 04-11-2017, 02:45 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:19 PM
  #2236  
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Originally Posted by jammingrant138
What is the smoothest pipe out there?
Any answer would be vague at best without knowing which engine you're pairing it with
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:39 AM
  #2237  
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Originally Posted by scottdm75
I switched up from a Losi 2.0 buggy, I was a die hard Losi fan for my 1/8 stuff. Last year I just wanted to "try something new" and am I ever glad I did. I remember saying the first time I drove my 7R "I feel like I could put down my radio and the car would drive itself". I was really that much easier to drive. I know the 3.0 is different from the 2.0, but not by much. The Losi was edgy and loose, the Mugen could round the apex with ease and not push like a dump truck, and had way more rear grip than the Losi. I literally went from consistently qualifying in the C main to qualifying top of the B and in most cases the A main at my local track. Yes, for me the car is that good!
I came from the TLR 3.0's this year and you are dead on. The only problem I am having is keeping the rubber side down because I am over driving now. Too much confidence whereas the TLR always had me puckered for my next crash. I would drive around on pins and needles! Also the ball ends on the TLR's were horrible. I pinched and pinched them with pliers and with the slightest dirt they would still bind up. Found the car to be inconsistent lap to lap not just track to track.

The Mugen has been spot on, now if I can just dial it back a little my results even though better than the TLR already, would be fantastic.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:19 PM
  #2238  
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Does anyone know where the mugen 40 gram weight can be had? Amain and Absolute are both out of stock? Thanks in advance for any help
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rceefreak
Does anyone know where the mugen 40 gram weight can be had? Amain and Absolute are both out of stock? Thanks in advance for any help
http://www.m2cracing.com/category.sc...?categoryId=89
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:29 PM
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Thanks for the heads up Keith on the M2C chassis weights. I am looking for the mugen branded specific 40 gram weight. This one goes right on the chassis with the pre drilled holes are
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rceefreak
Thanks for the heads up Keith on the M2C chassis weights. I am looking for the mugen branded specific 40 gram weight. This one goes right on the chassis with the pre drilled holes are
Yeah the Mugen weights are sold out everywhere. The M2C weights are also ready to mount using the counter sunk holes but are a little more expensive. I believe he still offers a 10% discount on online orders though.
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Old 03-13-2016, 05:08 AM
  #2242  
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Ok, Mugen center universals are sold out everywhere so what others are compatible, some say Kyosho do fit and some say they don't.
Part# would be awesome.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:42 AM
  #2243  
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Infer...EAAOxycmBSzuLd

will these fit ?
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:24 PM
  #2244  
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Ive been running the Sworks front uni, works fine.

I have been reading the Mugen Seiki tuning guide and read how any new drivetrain parts like unis, drivecups, new pins and I guess cvds need an hours running to get better traction.
Does anyone know how that exactly works?..do they need a little friction and wear to bind slightly?..it's something ive been reading about for years but never really understood it.
I'll be interested to read your replies on the this.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:32 PM
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Thanks, what do you use for the rear ones?
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:40 PM
  #2246  
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still the kit cvd, they work ok, they dont flog out anything like the front ones did.
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Old 03-13-2016, 05:11 PM
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Just go down to your local tyre shop and get a handfull over tyre weights. I havent been able to find the mugen ones here in Australia but have been running the trye shop weights for a while now. You can stack them directly over the holes in the chassis so effectivly the same thing.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by OfnaJoe
Thanks, what do you use for the rear ones?
I think most people are running the Kyosho uni for the rear. The rc8b3 uni should work good for the front, it's only 2.5 mm shorter than the mugen uni.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:53 AM
  #2249  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Ive been running the Sworks front uni, works fine.

I have been reading the Mugen Seiki tuning guide and read how any new drivetrain parts like unis, drivecups, new pins and I guess cvds need an hours running to get better traction.
Does anyone know how that exactly works?..do they need a little friction and wear to bind slightly?..it's something ive been reading about for years but never really understood it.
I'll be interested to read your replies on the this.
Here's a vid showing how to brake in your drivline, also explaining why.
http://www.blog.teknorc.com/2016/03/...line-break-in/
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:28 AM
  #2250  
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Originally Posted by stanleyw808
...
I had the chance to test the 1.4mm Springs Yesterday and the result is not as what I expected. I expected the springs will be to be too light compared to the 1.6mms according my finding on the Spring Gauge.

Actually the 1.4mm Springs are very very good!! Especially on a bumpy track I guess. My home track is a traditional loamy bumpy dusty track and these springs seems to give "more" overall traction as well as much better bump handling!!

I would suggest You try these springs starting with the suggested rate Front with 7.5 and Rear with 8.5.
...
Which oil and Pistons did you use during your tests? I want to give the 1,4 springs also a try, but I don't know where to stsart regarding the spring/ Oil / Piston combination.
My track is allways very bumpy and dusty, so I think the 1,4 Springs are worth to try.
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