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Old 06-19-2015, 12:15 AM
  #1471  
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The buku clutch can be adjusted with screws in the flyweel. How does it work ?
Must all three screws adjusted equal or different if i do it ?
Are the ABK shoes the same as komposite ?

Last edited by ddick; 06-19-2015 at 01:19 AM.
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Old 06-19-2015, 02:55 AM
  #1472  
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Originally Posted by Ccolemugen
It's the same I.D. as the Factory Mugen. The offset of gears on the ofna bell are not quite as long as the factory Mugen bell. This makes the spur gear ride closer to the end of the clutch bell putting more stress on the front clutch bell bearing. I have used ofna's with success but they will eat bearings faster. I prefer the new vented mugen bell for 3-4 dollars more.
I would have rather used mugen parts, vented wasn't out when I put the BUKU on my MBX7 2 years ago.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:32 AM
  #1473  
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It seems that carbon fiber towers allow an easier driving.
Do you guys know cf towers part numbers?
Thx.
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:32 PM
  #1474  
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Originally Posted by marmittone
It seems that carbon fiber towers allow an easier driving.
Do you guys know cf towers part numbers?
Thx.
Rear: Mugen E2533
Front: Mugen E2511

Greetings
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:01 AM
  #1475  
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FWIW - Here are your final gear ratios with and without under-drive. Going to a 48T center gear is near identical to changing to F&R under-drive

Mugen Gearing
46/13 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 6.92 : 1
46/13 Clutch + 42/12 Diff = 7.04 : 1
46/12 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 7.21 : 1
48/13 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 7.07 : 1
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:10 PM
  #1476  
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
FWIW - Here are your final gear ratios with and without under-drive. Going to a 48T center gear is near identical to changing to F&R under-drive

Mugen Gearing
46/13 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 6.92 : 1
46/13 Clutch + 42/12 Diff = 7.04 : 1
46/12 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 7.21 : 1
48/13 Clutch + 44/13 Diff = 7.07 : 1
Raising the spur tooth count does not have the same effect as raising a front or rear diff ring gear tooth count. Under driving the rear makes it feel like the front of the car is pulling the car around in my opinion. A 48t simply raises top speed and removes some low end
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:29 PM
  #1477  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
Raising the spur tooth count does not have the same effect as raising a front or rear diff ring gear tooth count. Under driving the rear makes it feel like the front of the car is pulling the car around in my opinion. A 48t simply raises top speed and removes some low end
It isn't the same if you only use the underdrive in one diff, but some guys were talking about using it in the front and the rear at the same time.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:05 AM
  #1478  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
Raising the spur tooth count does not have the same effect as raising a front or rear diff ring gear tooth count. Under driving the rear makes it feel like the front of the car is pulling the car around in my opinion. A 48t simply raises top speed and removes some low end
Going from the stock 46T center gear to the 48T is actually gearing it down. It's an almost identical gear ratio as running the underdrive in the front and rear.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:55 AM
  #1479  
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Is anyone using the PSM brake discs? is so how do you like them and how are you setting up the brake shoes?
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:54 AM
  #1480  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
Raising the spur tooth count does not have the same effect as raising a front or rear diff ring gear tooth count. Under driving the rear makes it feel like the front of the car is pulling the car around in my opinion. A 48t simply raises top speed and removes some low end
I think you have that backwards...48 would lower top speed and give more low end punch
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:10 AM
  #1481  
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Originally Posted by raylesk
I think you have that backwards...48 would lower top speed and give more low end punch
Sorry yes I was thinking pinion/bell when I was typing but yes you are right but my point was more that raising the center spur is not the same as changing just the rear diff pinion and ring gears. But yes if you changed both the front and rear its defeating the purpose.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:43 PM
  #1482  
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Has anyone noticed the shock shaft gets significantly more friction, as you tighten up the cartridge? I understand as you push the orings closer together it should get more pinched, but there seems to be extreme amounts of friction when the cartridge is snug. Even when you back off the cartridge a half a turn, it doesn't seem to help much.

Are you guys using different orings? Are you backing off the cartridge more than a turn (but then you run the risk of unscrewing itself)?

Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:25 PM
  #1483  
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why do the diffs feel like the big gear is rubbing on the case..shim…no shim…Ive dremeled the case out a lil where the gear passes..its on the correct side as well,,,,did it on my 7 and now I'm putting together my new R and problem still exists,,front and rear
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:45 PM
  #1484  
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It seems a bit odd that you are the only one to be having this problem on your mbx7 kits, where on the crown gear is it rubbing the diff housing.

Can you post a pic to show us?
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:32 PM
  #1485  
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Can I ask what people are doing to fix the sticking fuel clunk issues?

The fuel tubing in mine seems very short and will not let the clunk travel all the way to the top of the tank when upside down. I replaced with tubing about 4-5mm longer, and trimmed the side of the baffles to let it move easier, but now the clunk will hit the stepped wall on the back of the tank.

I'm really surprised there seems to be so much afterthought in the design of this tank
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