jedi.mind.trick

Would upgrading bearings throughout (or just certain parts) an 8ight-t 3.0, or any vehicle for that matter, give me any advantages or even disadvantages if I was just bashing for the most part?
I want to get ceramics for the engine any way, and I was looking at AvidRC's bearings for the rest as well.

So 1, which bearings, if any, would benefit from ceramics, or even just revolutions etc.

2, if I where to get the bearing kit off avid, where you can go and select which type of bearing for the size, http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=7...name=8ight+3.0 what should I choose for each?
like the first on the list is 8x14x4 Flanged (6 Pieces) and have an option to choose:
Revolution Flanged
Flanged Rubber
Flanged Metal
Ceramic Flanged Revolution
Ceramic Flanged Metal
(i took out the serpents)
How do I know which will be suited and which will not?


I am new to all this as you can probably tell, and I haven't built the 8ight-t yet so I am unsure as to what needs to stay rubber sealed, what can get away with revolutions and/or metal, nor do I know which bearing size goes where on the truggy.

Hope I made sense..

Thanks

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

There are 4 main bearing sizes for the 3.0. Not including the clutch and steering rack and radio tray and those don't take as much of a beating so the stock ones are fine.

8x14x4 Unflanged for the outer hub carriers. 4 total.
1/2x3/4 Unflanged for the inner hub carriers. 4 total.
8x14x4 Flanged for the Diffs. 6 total.
5x11x4 Unflanged for the pinion thru the diff case. 4 total.

Unless you are trying to set land speed records, don't worry about ceramic. You wont be able to tell the difference and the extra money isn't worth it.

If you get the Revolution series bearings, One side is sealed with rubber and the other is metal. When you install them, put the rubber side to the side where more dirt is exposed. Or you can just get all rubber and not have to worry about that part.

The difference in all rubber and revolution is that one side is metal shielded on the Revo's. Internals are the same.

For clutch, standard 5x10 and 5x13 revolution bearings. Just grab a tube of 10 each. Same thing, rubber to the front where the bolt is and rubber towards the shoes for the rear bearing.

Now to Geek out a little. Bearings are rated on a scale of 1-9. ABEC 1 is the common, low price, run of the mill bearing. ABEC 9 is a high precision, very low limit tolerances, way expensive bearings used in stuff like the Space Shuttle and things. You really don't need those. ABEC 3 and 5 are the norm for RC. If you are not racing, ABEC 3 will do just fine and ABEC 5 will be a little better fi you are worried about set-up precision over a long period.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Avid are fine everywhere except in the clutch bell I would use TKO 'special' clutch bearings. These are very strong long lasting bearings. One side has a blue seal and just make sure you face the blue seals in towards each other. There's a video on the TKO site. TKO makes decent bearings for the wheels and diffs also.

token

I use Avids everywhere with no issues.. Great Bearings.

segreda

Go for avid bearings...
Un the past i tried the bearings of absolute hobbyz and they did not hold on ....

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

Get the Avid Revolutions. The metal shields face each other.