Possible Comeback for Stadium Truck Racing?
07-17-2014, 05:49 AM
#31
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcPSTE-5hIg
Little video of my GT2 on a friends track last summer. This summer the rain has put a major hurt on their new layout. Still fun, just more ruts and less traction this year. Hope to have the GT2 out their next week. We will see.
Little video of my GT2 on a friends track last summer. This summer the rain has put a major hurt on their new layout. Still fun, just more ruts and less traction this year. Hope to have the GT2 out their next week. We will see.
Nice track too. Love the little rythym whoops and the l-o-n-g front straight. Been seeing the TV rain and flooding reports coming out of MN. Yikes. Hope your friend can salvage the track for more ST vids.
-AC-
07-17-2014, 07:50 AM
#33
Not sure why I ever decided to sell mine. 
Ya know.....my wife probably wouldn't be impressed with this thread, as my desire for an ST is growing by the day!...lol.
And thank ya....I went back to school (college) back then, was working full-time as well, and painting professionally on the side too (Wyldchild Designs), and somehow found the time to paint one for myself.
Nice video too, wrights.
07-17-2014, 07:59 AM
#34
I like your work area with the nice view out the window. Not sure why I ever decided to sell mine.
Ya know.....my wife probably wouldn't be impressed with this thread, as my desire for an ST is growing by the day!...lol.
And thank ya....I went back to school (college) back then, was working full-time as well, and painting professionally on the side too (Wyldchild Designs), and somehow found the time to paint one for myself.
Nice video too, wrights.
Not sure why I ever decided to sell mine. Ya know.....my wife probably wouldn't be impressed with this thread, as my desire for an ST is growing by the day!...lol.
And thank ya....I went back to school (college) back then, was working full-time as well, and painting professionally on the side too (Wyldchild Designs), and somehow found the time to paint one for myself.
Nice video too, wrights.
Its my garage in the Poconos, PA(hence the no drywall and exposed insulation lol. Only bad thing was it was impossible to work on them in the winter...cold as ummm a freezer.
I also had a dirt road in front of the house(its now paved, boo community dues for actually going to something that its supposed to)so I could just run the GT for a test and tune outside my house
No luck in finding a GT2 on eBay
I want one...blah!
wife wont be happy
07-17-2014, 10:21 AM
#35
Thanks.
Its my garage in the Poconos, PA(hence the no drywall and exposed insulation lol. Only bad thing was it was impossible to work on them in the winter...cold as ummm a freezer.
I also had a dirt road in front of the house(its now paved, boo community dues for actually going to something that its supposed to)so I could just run the GT for a test and tune outside my house
No luck in finding a GT2 on eBay
I want one...blah!
wife wont be happy
Its my garage in the Poconos, PA(hence the no drywall and exposed insulation lol. Only bad thing was it was impossible to work on them in the winter...cold as ummm a freezer.
I also had a dirt road in front of the house(its now paved, boo community dues for actually going to something that its supposed to)so I could just run the GT for a test and tune outside my house
No luck in finding a GT2 on eBay
I want one...blah!
wife wont be happy
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iated-gt2.html
There was another one last night, just can't find it right now.
07-17-2014, 02:42 PM
#36
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I got into RC racing with an RC10GT right as they were fading away. I sorta got the hang of it and it was loads of fun (and cheap). I now have a GT2 that I practiced once...it now sits at home waiting. Obviously I would love to see both electric and nitro ST make big comebacks. I do race an electric ST and enjoy it a lot (A LOT more than SC for sure).
I love nitro and I do run truggy but man it hurts the RC budget racing one. I think I would definitely trade the 1/8 for a 1/10 Gas Truck if I knew there would be classes for them at local tracks.
I love nitro and I do run truggy but man it hurts the RC budget racing one. I think I would definitely trade the 1/8 for a 1/10 Gas Truck if I knew there would be classes for them at local tracks.
07-18-2014, 07:33 AM
#37
Couple for sale on here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iated-gt2.html
There was another one last night, just can't find it right now.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iated-gt2.html
There was another one last night, just can't find it right now.
Wife wont be happy
07-18-2014, 07:43 AM
#38
Likewise, I don't know what I would do with one, but there just to cool.
07-20-2014, 03:00 PM
#39
Tech Adept
Get one while you can, $65 right now.
That being said, it's a great little ripper of a truck, would look sweet with a truggy body just need a place to mount the wing.
07-20-2014, 03:51 PM
#40
I left the hobby as well when the class was huge and it was my favorite of all time. It seemed everyone either had the losi or associated with the same motors and it was real close, fun, racing. I just came back to see that I'll have to run my GT2 in the sportsman class where I doubt I'll be competitive. That's alright but I do miss it
07-21-2014, 05:07 PM
#41
I've had a few PM's about what kind of setup we are running with the new parts. First though here are a few pics of the GT2 all cleaned up.
07-21-2014, 05:46 PM
#42
If your running a 8 year old truck like I am remove all plastic parts and boil for a bit in water. We found running the truck with old plastic made it very brittle. Boiling parts adds moisture to the plastic once again. Outcome was no more goofy snaps or breaks while running down the straight away.
Front:
Running a T4.2 front end, shock tower we have added 2 holes to the inside of what is already there. Using the furthest inside hole, approx 16mm center to center from old inside hole.
Outside hole on T4.2 arm
Camber link 1-A, 2mm ballstud washer
30 degree castor block
Axle height, middle (T4.2 steering block, Axle)
Inside Ackerman, 2mm ballstud washer under steering link
1 degree toe out, 1/2 degree camber, 34mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Blue Spring, 35wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
Rear:
Shock mount, 3 Tower, Outside Arm
Camber link 2-B (Camber Block is spaced as standard 2mm),(moved camber link to front side of upright to clear BB Shock),(Aluminum aftermarket instead of plastic)
0.0 degree, centered wheelbase, T4.2 rear upright and Axle, GT2 Bone
1/2 degree camber, 32mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Black Spring, 22.5wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
To gain flex in chassis we are using a plastic rear brace from transmission to radio plate. We have removed on of the mounting holes to the radio plate, keeping the one that is closest to the throttle servo. Also we have removed 3 radio plate to chassis mounts, 2 centers(front to back) and 1 in rear furthest from throttle servo.
B44.2 Slipper pads, they just grab so much better than the others!!!
As far as clutch goes, this is what I run, all engine act different.... I run the kit shoes with about 1/16" material removed from apex of shoe. Same thing we have always done back from the GT days. I run 1-0.9 and 1-1.0 spring gearing is 20/55
Im running all 12mm hex wheels, got rid of all the weight of the GT2 clip on wheels and now I just purchase T4.2 wheels!!! Front and rear are the same!!!
Hope this helps some of the guys who are new to GT, If you have any questions yell.
Front:
Running a T4.2 front end, shock tower we have added 2 holes to the inside of what is already there. Using the furthest inside hole, approx 16mm center to center from old inside hole.
Outside hole on T4.2 arm
Camber link 1-A, 2mm ballstud washer
30 degree castor block
Axle height, middle (T4.2 steering block, Axle)
Inside Ackerman, 2mm ballstud washer under steering link
1 degree toe out, 1/2 degree camber, 34mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Blue Spring, 35wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
Rear:
Shock mount, 3 Tower, Outside Arm
Camber link 2-B (Camber Block is spaced as standard 2mm),(moved camber link to front side of upright to clear BB Shock),(Aluminum aftermarket instead of plastic)
0.0 degree, centered wheelbase, T4.2 rear upright and Axle, GT2 Bone
1/2 degree camber, 32mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Black Spring, 22.5wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
To gain flex in chassis we are using a plastic rear brace from transmission to radio plate. We have removed on of the mounting holes to the radio plate, keeping the one that is closest to the throttle servo. Also we have removed 3 radio plate to chassis mounts, 2 centers(front to back) and 1 in rear furthest from throttle servo.
B44.2 Slipper pads, they just grab so much better than the others!!!
As far as clutch goes, this is what I run, all engine act different.... I run the kit shoes with about 1/16" material removed from apex of shoe. Same thing we have always done back from the GT days. I run 1-0.9 and 1-1.0 spring gearing is 20/55
Im running all 12mm hex wheels, got rid of all the weight of the GT2 clip on wheels and now I just purchase T4.2 wheels!!! Front and rear are the same!!!
Hope this helps some of the guys who are new to GT, If you have any questions yell.
Last edited by yokeman; 07-21-2014 at 06:07 PM.
07-21-2014, 06:02 PM
#43
Already i have been asked about the body..... It is a JCon RT6 MM body. You need a MM to clear the rear tower and this one fits great!!! I did though have to mod the rear tower to locate a mount.
I ground off the original body mounts and added RC8 front mounts. I drilleddwn into the tower where the old mounts where and also drilled up into the RC8 mounts. I then screwed a 1/2" 4/40 grub screw half in the RC8 mount and the other half in the tower. SOLID!!!
I ground off the original body mounts and added RC8 front mounts. I drilleddwn into the tower where the old mounts where and also drilled up into the RC8 mounts. I then screwed a 1/2" 4/40 grub screw half in the RC8 mount and the other half in the tower. SOLID!!!
07-22-2014, 08:50 AM
#45
If your running a 8 year old truck like I am remove all plastic parts and boil for a bit in water. We found running the truck with old plastic made it very brittle. Boiling parts adds moisture to the plastic once again. Outcome was no more goofy snaps or breaks while running down the straight away.
Front:
Running a T4.2 front end, shock tower we have added 2 holes to the inside of what is already there. Using the furthest inside hole, approx 16mm center to center from old inside hole.
Outside hole on T4.2 arm
Camber link 1-A, 2mm ballstud washer
30 degree castor block
Axle height, middle (T4.2 steering block, Axle)
Inside Ackerman, 2mm ballstud washer under steering link
1 degree toe out, 1/2 degree camber, 34mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Blue Spring, 35wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
Rear:
Shock mount, 3 Tower, Outside Arm
Camber link 2-B (Camber Block is spaced as standard 2mm),(moved camber link to front side of upright to clear BB Shock),(Aluminum aftermarket instead of plastic)
0.0 degree, centered wheelbase, T4.2 rear upright and Axle, GT2 Bone
1/2 degree camber, 32mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Black Spring, 22.5wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
To gain flex in chassis we are using a plastic rear brace from transmission to radio plate. We have removed on of the mounting holes to the radio plate, keeping the one that is closest to the throttle servo. Also we have removed 3 radio plate to chassis mounts, 2 centers(front to back) and 1 in rear furthest from throttle servo.
B44.2 Slipper pads, they just grab so much better than the others!!!
As far as clutch goes, this is what I run, all engine act different.... I run the kit shoes with about 1/16" material removed from apex of shoe. Same thing we have always done back from the GT days. I run 1-0.9 and 1-1.0 spring gearing is 20/55
Im running all 12mm hex wheels, got rid of all the weight of the GT2 clip on wheels and now I just purchase T4.2 wheels!!! Front and rear are the same!!!
Hope this helps some of the guys who are new to GT, If you have any questions yell.
Front:
Running a T4.2 front end, shock tower we have added 2 holes to the inside of what is already there. Using the furthest inside hole, approx 16mm center to center from old inside hole.
Outside hole on T4.2 arm
Camber link 1-A, 2mm ballstud washer
30 degree castor block
Axle height, middle (T4.2 steering block, Axle)
Inside Ackerman, 2mm ballstud washer under steering link
1 degree toe out, 1/2 degree camber, 34mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Blue Spring, 35wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
Rear:
Shock mount, 3 Tower, Outside Arm
Camber link 2-B (Camber Block is spaced as standard 2mm),(moved camber link to front side of upright to clear BB Shock),(Aluminum aftermarket instead of plastic)
0.0 degree, centered wheelbase, T4.2 rear upright and Axle, GT2 Bone
1/2 degree camber, 32mm ride height
Shocks are Big Bore no limiters....
Black Spring, 22.5wt Associated, 3x1.4mm
To gain flex in chassis we are using a plastic rear brace from transmission to radio plate. We have removed on of the mounting holes to the radio plate, keeping the one that is closest to the throttle servo. Also we have removed 3 radio plate to chassis mounts, 2 centers(front to back) and 1 in rear furthest from throttle servo.
B44.2 Slipper pads, they just grab so much better than the others!!!
As far as clutch goes, this is what I run, all engine act different.... I run the kit shoes with about 1/16" material removed from apex of shoe. Same thing we have always done back from the GT days. I run 1-0.9 and 1-1.0 spring gearing is 20/55
Im running all 12mm hex wheels, got rid of all the weight of the GT2 clip on wheels and now I just purchase T4.2 wheels!!! Front and rear are the same!!!
Hope this helps some of the guys who are new to GT, If you have any questions yell.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...t2-thread.html
I know you have posted over there, too, but this last set up post is not in that section.
