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Help with Losi clutch on Novarossi

Help with Losi clutch on Novarossi

Old 07-07-2014, 02:45 PM
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Default Help with Losi clutch on Novarossi

I'm at a loss on this one. Trying to get the clutch installed from an 8ight 3.0 kit to a Novarossi Clio P5. The Losi collet seems too short and the clutch has too much play. The Novarossi black collet is too small for the flywheel. I've tried adding a shim behind the Losi collet and then the clutch bell can't be shimmed enough to keep from making contact with the flywheel.

I've even been to my LHS and they weren't able to do anything other than what I did.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bsp212 View Post
I'm at a loss on this one. Trying to get the clutch installed from an 8ight 3.0 kit to a Novarossi Clio P5. The Losi collet seems too short and the clutch has too much play. The Novarossi black collet is too small for the flywheel. I've tried adding a shim behind the Losi collet and then the clutch bell can't be shimmed enough to keep from making contact with the flywheel.

I've even been to my LHS and they weren't able to do anything other than what I did.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
Been running Novas for years, no problems using the stock Losi clutch setup. You will need to use the Losi brass collet. Sounds like you dont have the nut tight enough. I have several Novas with Losi clutches installed. No shim needed.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:52 PM
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I can tighten the nut to a point but then the crankshaft spins over....
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:42 PM
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you need to hold the flywheel with a channel lock pliers.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
you need to hold the flywheel with a channel lock pliers.
Done that and had it in a bench vise using wood and leather to pad the jaws.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bsp212 View Post
Done that and had it in a bench vise using wood and leather to pad the jaws.
Also, make sure to pull the crankshaft out as far as you can before installing the flywheel. I didn't do that on my first engine and the conrod lower bushing was rubbing on the backplate, which happens with all engines if you don't pull the shaft out. I learned that the hard way.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:06 AM
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They make a piston locking tool that screws in where the glow plug sits. It allows you to tighten the fly wheel nut down and keeps the motor from turning over. But don't remember if they made a turbo plug type. And you only used it to get the nut snug. After that you may put unwanted stress on the internals so you would use pliers on the flywheel.

I know Im going to get bashed for this one but here goes.

Put your motor in the vise clamping on the mount/ case.
Remove glow plug.
Get fly wheel nut on as far as you can.
Find a piece of dowel rod that fits down the glow plug hole (wood not metal).
Use it to keep the motor from turning over as you tighten the nut some more.
Once you cant keep it from spinning over with the rod, use pliers on the flywheel to keep it from spinning ( without the rod in the hole)
If you need to, put some after run oil on top of the piston, then reinstall the glow plug. It may increase the compression enough to get it tight.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerm13 View Post
They make a piston locking tool that screws in where the glow plug sits. It allows you to tighten the fly wheel nut down and keeps the motor from turning over. But don't remember if they made a turbo plug type. And you only used it to get the nut snug. After that you may put unwanted stress on the internals so you would use pliers on the flywheel.

I know Im going to get bashed for this one but here goes.

Put your motor in the vise clamping on the mount/ case.
Remove glow plug.
Get fly wheel nut on as far as you can.
Find a piece of dowel rod that fits down the glow plug hole (wood not metal).
Use it to keep the motor from turning over as you tighten the nut some more.
Once you cant keep it from spinning over with the rod, use pliers on the flywheel to keep it from spinning ( without the rod in the hole)
If you need to, put some after run oil on top of the piston, then reinstall the glow plug. It may increase the compression enough to get it tight.
I've seen MANY $300 plus engines - MANY - be ruined for trying to lock the piston. Ive seen dents and divots at the top of the pistion which ruins the Piston.

Now I have this in my box, only used once.

Dynamite Crankshaft Locking Tool .12/.21
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:43 AM
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Try running a fresh losi collet, and make sure everything is clean and free of oil/grease.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:58 AM
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I would also getting a Flywheel wrench. Here are 2 examples.





Although I have used Channel Locks myself. I borrowed a similar product and would highly suggest it.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:18 PM
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Flywheel wrench don't work on a TLR Clutch. You will need to get the TLR specific one. I say don't waste your money.

I would try a new nut. Make sure the nut goes all the way on the crank, I would suggest doing this with the clutch off.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by token View Post
I've seen MANY $300 plus engines - MANY - be ruined for trying to lock the piston. Ive seen dents and divots at the top of the pistion which ruins the Piston.

Now I have this in my box, only used once.

Dynamite Crankshaft Locking Tool .12/.21
You are absolutly correct. Mainly because they try and tighten the hell out of the nut with the tool still installed. If you use it to get the nut flush against the flywheel, then remove the tool and use pliers to fully tighten it down, you will be fine.

I had a couple give me fits so I got a bad glow plug, drilled out the wire and put a piece of wooden dowel rod in there, just long enought to touch the piston before it goes to TDC. Snug the nut, then remove the plug, then tighten it down all the way using pliers to hold the flywheel. Just did one last week as a matter of fact.

But thats why I said "I know Im going to get bashed for this."
All the engine builders I have spoke with say dont do it, pro's say not to and 90% of the companies will void the warrenty if there is even a scratch on the internals. I was just giving him a solution to his problem.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:07 PM
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I finally got the thing on. Went for it again with the bench vise after cleaning/degreasing everything and starting over. I finally got it to seat far enough to work...So, I finally got everything built and painted the body. Just need to set up my starter box, bind the receiver, set up everything and start break-in.
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