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Buggy center differential > Manual clutch ?

Buggy center differential > Manual clutch ?

Old 05-16-2014, 03:25 AM
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Default Buggy center differential > Manual clutch ?

OK, heres where it starts to get weird so bare with me.

i have a big scale build in the works as many may know, heres a link so you can suss out what im actually doing>

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ty-ftruck.html

I just recently acquired an FS-40 Surpass O.S engines 4stroke nitro engine. its getting fitted into ^^ my truck.

My problem is, they no longer make/supply the crankshaft that allows fitment of a normal style buggy clutch and so now my pinion is directly on the crankshaft.

id still like to use the buggy center diff as its mounted pretty nicely in the bay and is working so far in regards to power transmission to the summit two speed i have sitting behind it.

currently, the diff is fully locked and both sides of the diff are brakes. but now that i dont have a clutch on the engine anymore, heres my plan.


**refit an open differential into the carrier and use one side for output shaft drive, and use the other side for clutch.

or
**reposition it, to be on the end of the crank, with the main spur being the output, and the other side of the diff being the clutch.

both methods require the diff to be working/spinning 100% of the time so im not sure how long it will last in this environment.
here is a rough pic of what im speaking of for those who work better with pics.




My main concern is the fact that the gears inside the diff will be spinning for as long as the engine runs. not always with load on them tho, but spinning still. I fully intend on filling it with a light gear oil for lube but its still gonna get warm im sure.
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:11 AM
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Wouldn't it be easier to take a piece of crank off the front of an old crank and attach it with a long screw to make your crank longer? I know I had to cut a perfectly fine crank once because of a stripped screw and this type of repair performed without any issues.
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:17 AM
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im sorry, but i dont understand why i would want it longer? its already longer than my 2stroke nitro shaft.

i cant fit a clutch to this engine as it doesnt have the little small diameter shaft for the bell to run on, its all thread.

this is my engine here>




ive currently got fitted a drilled out steel flywheel and a buggy pinion bolted to the front of the shaft at the moment.
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:19 AM
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im currently tossing up between a helicopter clutch setup, or the manual setup ive described up top.

its for a scale truck, so i thought a manual clutch could have been ok/fun, and it would be no more effort to drive than a real manual vehicle, it would just be a matter of getting the head around the controls.

im mostly concerned about the diff center running all the time and potentially heating up to melting point.
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Old 05-17-2014, 06:11 AM
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Ok, been advised away from using the buggy diff, as "diffing out" will pretty quickly wear out the housing id imagine. so i purchased a Tmaxx 2speed transmission tonight and i plan on using a servo to control spring tension on the slipper clutch instead.

if you want to follow my build thread, theres a link back up in the first post.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:07 AM
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http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/2...5-CCM?ref=list
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:13 AM
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thanks for that, but is there a normal nitro clutch that will grab at a much lower rpm than a 2stroke style one?

im kinda liking the idea that i found tonight, regarding the adjustable tension on the slipper spring, but in saying that, i also like the better simplicity of a centrifugal clutch.

i was reading somewhere that they dont hook up till over 6krpm and thats at least half of my usable rev range with this 4stroke...

well n truly still open to suggestions
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:53 PM
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Heavy shoes and weak springs will create a low rpm engage.

You should be more worried about the gearing, you do need a large pinion.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:02 PM
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How do I know which springs are softer and which shoes are heavier?

I want to keep the gearing low as its a crawler truck. 2nd gear can be up to jogging pace but I definitely dont want this fast at all.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:54 PM
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something i just remembered, the clutches i have on my 0.21 engines run a tapered collet on the shaft, both of those clutches are loose on the FS-40 shaft.

is there a hubcentric ring or similar that exists as an off the shelf item for converting plane engines to run a clutch?
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