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Werks Power Clutch vs Werks Pro clutch

Werks Power Clutch vs Werks Pro clutch

Old 05-02-2014, 12:15 PM
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Default Werks Power Clutch vs Werks Pro clutch

I am in the market for a clutch, and I want as much adjustability as I can get
out of the clutch as possible. I have both inexpensive engines and expensive
engines. I want to vary the clutch engagement to suit each engines characteristics.

I already have a Werks Power Clutch, and I am familiar with how it works, but
it also looks as though deceleration may be a weak point. I believe this because
of the taper shoes must be able to easily slide back in place as rpm decreases.
On the other hand, perhaps these shoes are better suited to contract than a
normal clutch.

Is there someone with experience on mixing shoe combinations with the Power
Clutch? As the clutch heats up, is there any drawbacks?


The Werks Pro clutch seems to be the more popular choice. Nearly every other
clutch on the market is similar in design. I like the idea of having many spring
choices and shoe combinations, along with the possibility that other manufactures
springs and shoes may also increase tune-ability of the clutch.

Is there any other recommended options? and if so, why are they better?


Thanks

Bill M.

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wmazz View Post

Is there any other recommended options? and if so, why are they better?



Thanks
Have you considered the Buku clutch? It is infinitely adjustable by screwing in set screws on the flywheel. The set screws pressurize the springs thereby making them engage sooner or later like a harder or softer spring would. You can stagger the engagement by screwing them in different amounts. The adjustment is done on the car. All you need is an allen wrench. It takes the amount of time it takes you to turn a screw. The clutch lasts easily over 5 gallons. Some claim 8+ gallons.
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO View Post
Have you considered the Buku clutch? It is infinitely adjustable by screwing in set screws on the flywheel. The set screws pressurize the springs thereby making them engage sooner or later like a harder or softer spring would. You can stagger the engagement by screwing them in different amounts. The adjustment is done on the car. All you need is an allen wrench. It takes the amount of time it takes you to turn a screw. The clutch lasts easily over 5 gallons. Some claim 8+ gallons.
I have a true 8+ gallons of use on my buku

this is still the original clutch set I got on the very first batch of buku clutches from the guys at buku as a test/demo unit , flawless is all that comes to mind
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
I have a true 8+ gallons of use on my buku

this is still the original clutch set I got on the very first batch of buku clutches from the guys at buku as a test/demo unit , flawless is all that comes to mind
Is your buku clutch loaded with the komposite shoes?
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:21 PM
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Are you talking about the old style werks clutch with the plate and one large spring in the middle.

If so I am very familiar with both.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Franchise View Post
Are you talking about the old style werks clutch with the plate and one large spring in the middle.

If so I am very familiar with both.

Yes

Thank You
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:55 PM
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Well ok then.

If I had a choice I would run on the old style. As far as tunability its got the pro couch beat by a long shot. It's is very easy to tune once you take the clutch bell off. I happy ran the the light spring adjusted almost all the way out. I like an early engagement so I can fester the throttle. My version of traction control. I ran all carbon shoes. I tried the rulon shoes once and didn't like the feel. They do give a slip ever so slightly before they warm up. You wouldnt notice unless your warm up laps were all out hot laps. A non vented clutch be will help them warm faster if need be. Last I checked its hard to find parts for this clutch. Another thing I didn't like was the narrow flywheel and how easily it go nicked up.

The new clutch is great. It's not as adjustable and not as smooth. The pins seem to be holding up well. I run two carbons and two aluminum..9 and 1.0 springs. The carbons seems to go through two sets to one aluminum with this setup. I'm going to try all aluminum ashore on my next race.
You really can't go wrong with the new clutch. It works well and parts are all over the place.

I still have my old clutches.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:57 PM
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Oh and I wish werks had the rulon option with the new clutch. I think those would work really well with my current setup. I liked the feel of my original setup but those carbons wear out fast.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:57 PM
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Thanks for the help, I found a large supply of Werks Power Clutch parts on Ebay,
and I purchased them.

Thanks

Bill M.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:52 AM
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Does anyone have recommendations for which inner spring to use? or
that I should stock up on.

For example, the Werks web site shows the Gold spring as the softest
and early engagement. The Green spring is a Medium?

Does that mean the Silver spring (WRX6519) is the stiffest, and latest
engagement.

It would also be helpful to know approximate rpm engagements.


If Werks reads this--Was there any Power clutches made of steel?

Thanks


Bill M.
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wmazz View Post
Does anyone have recommendations for which inner spring to use? or
that I should stock up on.

For example, the Werks web site shows the Gold spring as the softest
and early engagement. The Green spring is a Medium?

Does that mean the Silver spring (WRX6519) is the stiffest, and latest
engagement.

It would also be helpful to know approximate rpm engagements.


If Werks reads this--Was there any Power clutches made of steel?

Thanks


Bill M.
That's sound right, green lightest and silver heaviest.

I've found I use the green and gold the most, they do last a while though before need to be replaced.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:04 PM
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Yes the green is the way to go. I've never ran either of the other springs.
On my setup I had the adjuster nut nearly all the way out. Maybe 3 turns. That spring was enough to give me all the adjustment I ever needed. That spring should give you the engagement capability of today's new clutches plus more. There is A LOT of adjustability in that clutch. I couldn't see anyone in offroad using the silver or gold. I guess its preference though.

As far as I know werks never made a steel version of that clutch. If they had I would have had one because that aluminum got nicked really easy. On one of flywheels It got so nicked up on the edge I was having a hard time starting it on my jump box. The edge was almost completely smooth from the grooves rubbing off. The box wheel would just slip.

Oh yeah another problem I had with those clutches were the pins coming loose. Remember, those things ate aluminum and soft. But, I've had mine for years so it could have been just wear and tear. Back then I was racing every single weekend.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:39 PM
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Can I ask why you decided to seek out a clutch that has been discontinued for so long? I'm genuinely curious as to why you could not find a suitable clutch that is still in production.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:40 PM
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First off, I don't believe something is better simply because it is newer, or more
recent. Sometimes the best products simply don't sell.

Second, I like the concept, and the obvious adjustability of the clutch. Only the Buku
clutch seems to be somewhat adjustable. Another reason is the shoes, they are not
aluminum, they appear to have more surface area, and they could be mixed like some
other clutches.

The lack of an aluminum shoe is also appealing because aluminum shoes can gall to the
clutch bell and potentially reduce the grip. Again, only the Buku clutch seems to come
close.

I am not worried about weight, I would buy one made of steel if I could. I see to many
people having trouble with too much wheel spin. My motto is Make as much HP as
possible, and gear it right. Similar to my signature, if you are accelerating slow, that is
rpm, not HP. Seems like a conflict of interest to purchase a light clutch or worry about
the weight of your crankshaft and then use thick silicone in 2 of the 3 diffs.

I have several engines to test, and I want a clutch capable of significantly different
configurations. I am planing on making a data acquisition system capable of recording
clutch engagement, and many other tasks...maybe we should do it as a open project
on these forums?


Bill M

Last edited by wmazz; 05-07-2014 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:49 PM
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Understood. Thanks for explaining. I hope you find it to your liking.
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