Runaways?
01-19-2014, 09:30 PM
#16
What makes you say that? Just curious 
It does have a balance connector, but it wont fit the normal 2s balance connectors as it seems to be smaller.
It does have a balance connector, but it wont fit the normal 2s balance connectors as it seems to be smaller.
01-19-2014, 09:40 PM
#18
01-19-2014, 10:07 PM
#20
01-19-2014, 11:02 PM
#22
Well the thing is with this is that it's giving a lot of mixed signals so it's difficult to find the cause. The most common i've experienced so far was the throttle staying. For example, on the straight away when i use wot, the throttle seems to stay there for a few seconds after i release my finger back to neutral. That is as if i haven't braked already. Does that give anyone ideas?
01-20-2014, 04:19 AM
#25
I would check your rx battery as said. if the battery fails there is no way for it to hold a servo in failsafe mode. also get a small rubber band and put on around the carb and the slide
01-20-2014, 04:31 AM
#26
Could be a bad RX pack, or i think I am leaning montys way on this with a
bad servo. They do weird things once they heat up. I have a 9552 that refused
to work properly in nitro rig but has been running flawlessly in an 1/10 buggy.
Oh and by the way I have seen more cooked servos than saved from runaways
by the spectrum fail safe. Usually what happens is you have it set for either
brakes or brakes and a gentle turn. You finish your run turn off the radio and while
your corner marshaling the servo holding brakes or steering overheats and
cooks the motor in the servo. Its not a problem if you always remember to turn
off the car, but forget one time.....
Sometimes people have no idea when they bind up the radio whats going on.
I have seen full throttle, full brakes(not a good idea) full lock turn ect.
If you still have steering its not in fail safe mode.
A return band on the carb and properly setup linkage is a far better solution than ANY fail safe.
bad servo. They do weird things once they heat up. I have a 9552 that refused
to work properly in nitro rig but has been running flawlessly in an 1/10 buggy.
Oh and by the way I have seen more cooked servos than saved from runaways
by the spectrum fail safe. Usually what happens is you have it set for either
brakes or brakes and a gentle turn. You finish your run turn off the radio and while
your corner marshaling the servo holding brakes or steering overheats and
cooks the motor in the servo. Its not a problem if you always remember to turn
off the car, but forget one time.....
Sometimes people have no idea when they bind up the radio whats going on.
I have seen full throttle, full brakes(not a good idea) full lock turn ect.
If you still have steering its not in fail safe mode.
A return band on the carb and properly setup linkage is a far better solution than ANY fail safe.
01-20-2014, 06:07 AM
#28
Put a rubberband or return spring on the slide.
To me, it sounds like a bad TH servo. It's over heating.
To me, it sounds like a bad TH servo. It's over heating.
01-20-2014, 11:02 AM
#29
I took a video to see if it helps you guys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za_erZF3Ot8
I'm believe I'm using Hitec 7950s for the throttle. As for the failsafe, i'm hearing a lot of the rubber band technique. Anyone got a picture of how that works out?
Also, someone said something about full brakes isn't recommended for the failsafe. Would it be better if i switched it to the right amount of brake to where it just drags?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za_erZF3Ot8
I'm believe I'm using Hitec 7950s for the throttle. As for the failsafe, i'm hearing a lot of the rubber band technique. Anyone got a picture of how that works out?
Also, someone said something about full brakes isn't recommended for the failsafe. Would it be better if i switched it to the right amount of brake to where it just drags?
01-20-2014, 01:15 PM
#30
Swap your steering and throttle servo. If your steering now becomes problematic and your throttle is fine, you know the problem is the servo.
If your throttle is still problematic then you have to look to your receiver or battery or controller.
You said you have a new receiver, so it's probably not that. (And by new receiver I am assuming you mean the problem existed, so you replaced the receiver with a brand new one and it persisted with the new receiver).
Next cheapest and easiest thing to replace is your receiver battery. Start fresh with a new one or one that is known to be good... i.e. borrow from a friend who runs his regularly and recently and knows for a fact it is working.
Process of elimination.
If your throttle is still problematic then you have to look to your receiver or battery or controller.
You said you have a new receiver, so it's probably not that. (And by new receiver I am assuming you mean the problem existed, so you replaced the receiver with a brand new one and it persisted with the new receiver).
Next cheapest and easiest thing to replace is your receiver battery. Start fresh with a new one or one that is known to be good... i.e. borrow from a friend who runs his regularly and recently and knows for a fact it is working.
Process of elimination.