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Old 03-14-2019, 08:04 AM
  #4021  
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Originally Posted by Ricardo_d99 View Post

what setup are you running ? Got a pic ?
He posted his setup.. its stock with the few changes he made listed..
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricardo_d99 View Post

what setup are you running ? Got a pic ?
I added +2 hubs and made a ride-height adjustment to match. I would go up +2mm in height from what you are running with the +2 hubs. Possibly a little rebound could be run on this wider setup with good results. It makes sense a wider buggy track will add stability and traction, but also changes the length of the lever from wheel to pivot pin. Anyone have the ROAR max buggy track width in mm?

Stock Xray 2019 Setup (PBS)



Stock Xray XB8 2019



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Old 03-14-2019, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
I added +2 hubs and made a ride-height adjustment to match. I would go up +2mm in height from what you are running with the +2 hubs. Possibly a little rebound could be run on this wider setup with good results. It makes sense a wider buggy track will add stability and traction, but also changes the length of the lever from wheel to pivot pin. Anyone have the ROAR max buggy track width in mm?

Stock Xray 2019 Setup (PBS)



Stock Xray XB8 2019
you could change diffs to 7-6-3 that could help you get more mid corner steering also adding caster could help, using +2 hubs wouldnt really help it might rather hurt you.

Last edited by Ricardo_d99; 03-15-2019 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Thanks, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Probably drop the FFront pin down to start, and move those clips on the upper arm around as those are quick to test.

Are the E-buggies heaver? Wondering if thats what could be pushing those front arms to the breaking point, but I'm sure the cold doesn't help.
Couldn't wait until the weekend to try those recommended setup changes. lol. So I ran the lowest front lower arm kick up setting I could, (#1 down and in), and moved upper arm forwards to (2mm clips behind the arm). The track is a large, loose, open track with deep loam off the racing line, and sand over hard pack on the racing line. The track is moderately bumpy with blown out lips and jump faces. I did get more corner speed on this setup as well as front to back stability. This is a very easy to drive setup, with a bit more corner rotation. Gave up just a tiny bit of turn in, but gained in most other areas. I might try the 4 dot spring on the front during next shock rebuild, but otherwise I think I'm really close to a baseline for the PBS buggy on a large loose track.

- Tire: AKA Grid Iron 2 (soft long wear)
- Ride height: finished the run at (27mm Front and 29mm rear)
- Lowest Kick-up possible on front lower arms
- Moved upper front arm forward just a lil bit (now 2mm castor clips behind upper arm)
- +2 wheel hubs all around
- Front shock length at full droop 105.8mm front and 125.25mm rear
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:23 AM
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That's nice. Keep on tuning. The car reacts good to changes . U will definitely know if your going the right direction
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Couldn't wait until the weekend to try those recommended setup changes. lol. So I ran the lowest front lower arm kick up setting I could, (#1 down and in), and moved upper arm forwards to (2mm clips behind the arm). The track is a large, loose, open track with deep loam off the racing line, and sand over hard pack on the racing line. The track is moderately bumpy with blown out lips and jump faces. I did get more corner speed on this setup as well as front to back stability. This is a very easy to drive setup, with a bit more corner rotation. Gave up just a tiny bit of turn in, but gained in most other areas. I might try the 4 dot spring on the front during next shock rebuild, but otherwise I think I'm really close to a baseline for the PBS buggy on a large loose track.

- Tire: AKA Grid Iron 2 (soft long wear)
- Ride height: finished the run at (27mm Front and 29mm rear)
- Lowest Kick-up possible on front lower arms
- Moved upper front arm forward just a lil bit (now 2mm castor clips behind upper arm)
- +2 wheel hubs all around
- Front shock length at full droop 105.8mm front and 125.25mm rear
if you wanna get more turn in try a thinner front roll bar.
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
yes.. ebuggies are heavier.. even with the 2x 2s packs, and cut radio tray that i run.. the ebuggy is heavier.. i will try to get an accurate count this weekend.. to see what the weight difference is..
We weighed both nitro and e buggies last night. E-buggy with 2x 2s short packs was lighter than the nitro car with fuel in it. E buggy was 6.74 and nitro car was 6.83.
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CAR View Post
Just wondering if the stiffer aluminum parts put more stress on the plastic arms. I wondering if anyone broke any arms with the stock plastic parts, I have to believe that Xray tested the stock kit with no problems.
We did break arms with the stock plastic also. We run in cold temps and Xray has told us that is part of the issue. They are supposed to be making a softer arm. Both times the arm broke, they should have broke. The car hit objects that should have broken the arm. These are not magically breaking on there own.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricardo_d99 View Post


if you wanna get more turn in try a thinner front roll bar.

Just noticed they don't have 2. 1 front bar it steps down to 2.0, do you think 2.0 is too thin? Anyone try running this? I've got that PBS buggy so dialed, I can repeat laps over and over for days, I'm scared to change anything now cause its working so good. lol.


Taking a brand new C-hub buggy (stock build) to the track today, should finish break-in on the FX 5K DLC and get a feel for the C-hub. Will report back.




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Old 03-22-2019, 09:58 AM
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i have been using the 2.0 bar on the front of my PBS car for some time now.. and 2.2 on the rear.. On the C-hub car i have raised the bars to 2.2/2.4
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Old 03-22-2019, 07:21 PM
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Talking Xray XB8 2019 PBS vs C-Hub

Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i have been using the 2.0 bar on the front of my PBS car for some time now.. and 2.2 on the rear.. On the C-hub car i have raised the bars to 2.2/2.4

Ok will order 2,0 bar for the PBS.


Just back from the track with the C-hub, its fast. The steering is more than adequate throughout the range of rotation, however I couldn't punch out of the corners. When I came in tight and punched out too early the back end would step out causing me to lift a bit. The PBS car would allow me to stay in the throttle and counter steer out of the same scenario. I had a faster lap with the C-hub car while staying within the racing line, however consistency and corrective driving not as good as on the PBS. I could see this being an issue in traffic.


I added +1mm offset hubs on all 4 corners and came off the track with a ride height higher than stock at 28 front and 29 rear. The increase in ride height made the car way better in the bumps and jumps with very little lost elsewhere. I ran a brand new set of Sweeps Brand, Whips (Blue compound) tires, because I had the best results on the PBS buggy with that tire. I might leave the car as-is, and try to dial out some steering on the radio, it seems very close to an improvement over the PBS, just this one little quirk.


Any tips that would allow me to get that back end to hook-up just a little bit earlier when leaving the corner would be awesome.

I finished the break-in of the 5K DLC with Reds X-one 2104 Smooth pipe, guys,... this combo is SICK! I put a final race tune on, knowing it was going to be good, but the sound,... smoothness,... and the top-end on our long straight. OMG.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Ok will order 2,0 bar for the PBS.


Just back from the track with the C-hub, its fast. The steering is more than adequate throughout the range of rotation, however I couldn't punch out of the corners. When I came in tight and punched out too early the back end would step out causing me to lift a bit. The PBS car would allow me to stay in the throttle and counter steer out of the same scenario. I had a faster lap with the C-hub car while staying within the racing line, however consistency and corrective driving not as good as on the PBS. I could see this being an issue in traffic.


I added +1mm offset hubs on all 4 corners and came off the track with a ride height higher than stock at 28 front and 29 rear. The increase in ride height made the car way better in the bumps and jumps with very little lost elsewhere. I ran a brand new set of Sweeps Brand, Whips (Blue compound) tires, because I had the best results on the PBS buggy with that tire. I might leave the car as-is, and try to dial out some steering on the radio, it seems very close to an improvement over the PBS, just this one little quirk.


Any tips that would allow me to get that back end to hook-up just a little bit earlier when leaving the corner would be awesome.

I finished the break-in of the 5K DLC with Reds X-one 2104 Smooth pipe, guys,... this combo is SICK! I put a final race tune on, knowing it was going to be good, but the sound,... smoothness,... and the top-end on our long straight. OMG.
if you wanna get the rear to hook up more try running a higher roll center in the rear ( lower hole on the shock tower ) also maybe go back to the starsdard hex that usually helps with grip. Can we see what setup sheet you’re running for it ?
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricardo_d99 View Post

if you wanna get the rear to hook up more try running a higher roll center in the rear ( lower hole on the shock tower ) also maybe go back to the starsdard hex that usually helps with grip. Can we see what setup sheet you’re running for it ?
OK will try those changes.
Funny though, I noticed the opposite when I added the +1 hubs to the rear, I actually picked up traction in the rear. I will undo that change and see what happens.

Here is the first Test setup for the C-hub. Its mostly stock on the shocks and diffs, really fast in the racing line. When I would get tight in a corner (to pass), I just couldn't get throttle fast enough to maintain said pass. I assume my inside front and rear tires sat in loam off racing line, so going on throttle was probably cutting that rear inside tire loose to spin. That inside pass scenario would cause me to lift off the gas as the rear continued to step out. Unfortunately, on this track, most of those passing opportunities will be on the inside line, so I will need to resolve this quick. Would dropping the center diff down to 6K send a bit more power to the front, giving me a bit less rear drive, or a bit more front drive out of the corner? Everything else is so close to perfect I don't want to make that change unless its really needed.

Do you think dropping that front kickup down will help like it did on the PBS Buggy?
Will running a lighter lexan wing that provides more down force at lower speeds help?
Could rear toe-in need a slight change to help on this little issue?


Last edited by TheWorstDriver; 03-24-2019 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:07 PM
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Try +1, or even +2 hub only in the rear and 7/6/3

Last edited by speedy2; 03-25-2019 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by speedy2 View Post
Try +1, or even +2 hub only in the rear and 7/5/3
Thank you, I will test this out. Unfortunately we got a good shot of rain last night, so today's dial session isn't happening.

Taking my time going through the cars, drinking a beer, listening to some tunes here, good times.

Thanks for the tips guys.
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