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Old 03-07-2019, 09:09 AM
  #4006  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
panther tires.. what a throw back.. very cool story dude..

Ya, lol. The local track at that time was like racing in a large sand box, I think it was Proline crime fighters or these Panthers that we ran. Later they added some Clay to the track, about then the mini-pins or Proline Hole Shots came out. It was a good time to club race, an average club race on Saturday night would bring 60+ racers week after week, very high competition. I remember some regular club races when my expert buggy race (last race of the night), went off after midnight because so many people racing at that time, 2007'ish. I remember running square stroke RB motors, and high traction tires to reduce tire spin mostly in an attempt to gain run time. I was skipping a pit in my A-mains by running a 6mm carb insert, having such a light Xray buggy. ....and skipping a pit was somewhat rare back then.

Last edited by TheWorstDriver; 03-07-2019 at 09:33 AM. Reason: I cant spell... lol.
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Old 03-07-2019, 09:56 AM
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one of my favorite motors was the RB Concept WS7 motors.. Or the awesome OS VO-1B.. the ceramic head CV motors we ran in gas truck..
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:59 AM
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Yep, and just think, RB was making low center of gravity (L2G) cooling head designs back 2006-2007 before anyone else. They even had a super light Magnesium cooling head option back then, (didnt work great), but still innovative. Too bad they aren't made like those old RBs any longer. RB WS72 is still my favourite buggy motor of all time, it just ran so well in that old Xray buggy.
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Old 03-07-2019, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Yep, and just think, RB was making low center of gravity (L2G) cooling head designs back 2006-2007 before anyone else. They even had a super light Magnesium cooling head option back then, (didnt work great), but still innovative. Too bad they aren't made like those old RBs any longer. RB WS72 is still my favourite buggy motor of all time, it just ran so well in that old Xray buggy.
yes. That's it. The WS7 2... With the nicenorange head and the hand showing 2 fingers.
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Old 03-10-2019, 03:46 PM
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Now that the new car has been out for a while has anyone been getting the c-hubs to work better then the pivot balls? Thanks for the imput.
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Old 03-11-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CAR View Post
Now that the new car has been out for a while has anyone been getting the c-hubs to work better then the pivot balls? Thanks for the imput.
personally, the C-hub car is faster in my opinion.. however.. with the cold weather.. the XH arms that come with the car are just too fragile.. i have seen a few breaks, and had my own. On my breakage.. it wasnt a hard landing.. just an off axis landing.. and snapped with ease on my ebuggy.. now.. my nitro car.. i havent broke one yet. literally.. broke the ebuggy in practice.. then went and got the nitro car.. drove it the rest of the day.. and didnt break it. with some cartwheels thrown in.. didnt break.. however.. for the event.. i took the C-hub off.. and put the PBS on..

with that said.. i have seen others break on some tough crashes.. so.. i have gone back to the PBS for bigger events.. due to the fear of a break.

Just a note though.. the temperature is a factor here.. i dont know if the arm design is weak, or not.. but.. i have never had a rear arm break.. and because of the cold.. i the graphite is brittle.. and i had one break in the main at the last event.. so keep that in mind..

i think the C-hub is faster.. in certain conditions.. however.. brittle in the cold..
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Old 03-11-2019, 07:54 AM
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Anyone been using the new caps and bladders? they are very similar if not identical to the Fast Race caps and bladders. the Xray bladders though, are softer than the fast race bladders..

i have done some shock testing.. personally.. the new caps and bladders feel too hard.. i prefer the 18 caps and bladders.. but.. i took the new bladder and put it in the old cap.. and its not bad..
takeaways
prolly run softer oil.. by 50cst from your normal setup..
harder to get the 0 rebound when building
car seems to land better, and respond better when landing flatter

right now, i am going to stick with that setup at the moment.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:14 PM
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Had a great run today, got about a quarter gallon straight through. First day with the new Sanwa M17 radio (mind blown), also had to re-tune for new fuel, but after that it was dialed! I had two 10 minute runs without a single marshal, and turned my fastest laps to date. PBS consistency is ridiculous, I never once had to guess what the car would do. I could get tight into the corners, and punch out. Mid corner speed is the only thing that needs a little work, and that could probably be resolved with a different tire. I even took a shot at Ryan Lutz style drifting to see if it would work, and with this setup it does. The on power drift is not preferred, but nice to know its very predictable when needed. lol. Probably hit the track with the C-hub car in next two weeks, but want a dialed baseline on the PBS first.

Low to medium traction track test:
Box stock setup except...
Ran +2mm wheel hubs all around as a test(instant stability increase, but dont forget to change your ride height!)
Increased ride height to 28mm front/ 30mm back (stock height wasn't great mid corner with the +2mm wheel hubs, bumping up a couple mm's also made jumping and landing better, still kept stability)

So, question to all?
On a PBS car, if you could make one change to increase mid corner speed/rotation, (off power, not punch drift, lol),.. what would it be? Thanks.

Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
personally, the C-hub car is faster in my opinion.. however.. with the cold weather.. the XH arms that come with the car are just too fragile.. i have seen a few breaks, and had my own. On my breakage.. it wasnt a hard landing.. just an off axis landing.. and snapped with ease on my ebuggy.. now.. my nitro car.. i havent broke one yet. literally.. broke the ebuggy in practice.. then went and got the nitro car.. drove it the rest of the day.. and didnt break it. with some cartwheels thrown in.. didnt break.. however.. for the event.. i took the C-hub off.. and put the PBS on..

with that said.. i have seen others break on some tough crashes.. so.. i have gone back to the PBS for bigger events.. due to the fear of a break.

Just a note though.. the temperature is a factor here.. i dont know if the arm design is weak, or not.. but.. i have never had a rear arm break.. and because of the cold.. i the graphite is brittle.. and i had one break in the main at the last event.. so keep that in mind..

i think the C-hub is faster.. in certain conditions.. however.. brittle in the cold..
What temp would you consider "cold" for that issue to arise? Running about 40-50 deg here.

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Old 03-12-2019, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Had a great run today, got about a quarter gallon straight through. First day with the new Sanwa M17 radio (mind blown), also had to re-tune for new fuel, but after that it was dialed! I had two 10 minute runs without a single marshal, and turned my fastest laps to date. PBS consistency is ridiculous, I never once had to guess what the car would do. I could get tight into the corners, and punch out. Mid corner speed is the only thing that needs a little work, and that could probably be resolved with a different tire. I even took a shot at Ryan Lutz style drifting to see if it would work, and with this setup it does. The on power drift is not preferred, but nice to know its very predictable when needed. lol. Probably hit the track with the C-hub car in next two weeks, but want a dialed baseline on the PBS first.

Low to medium traction track test:
Box stock setup except...
Ran +2mm wheel hubs all around as a test(instant stability increase, but dont forget to change your ride height!)
Increased ride height to 28mm front/ 30mm back (stock height wasn't great mid corner with the +2mm wheel hubs, bumping up a couple mm's also made jumping and landing better, still kept stability)

So, question to all?
On a PBS car, if you could make one change to increase mid corner speed/rotation, (off power, not punch drift, lol),.. what would it be? Thanks.



What temp would you consider "cold" for that issue to arise? Running about 40-50 deg here.
well, for this race we were in the 40's, then it dropped to the 30's. I only broke the ebuggy.. not the nitro car. there are other guys on the facebook pages, who have had the same issue.. broke only the ebuggy.. not their nitro.. one guy was running in temps where the high was 25, low was down in the single digits.. lol..

and to get more mid corner speed.. you could work caster with the clips on the upper arm a little bit.. maybe even diff setup.. but.. one of the biggest changes i have made for the good sofar on the PBS car is less Kick-up buy going to a lower hole in the front FF blocks.. or go up a little in the FR block..
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:18 PM
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The guys that have broken front c-hub arms were they running the aluminum truck c-hub parts on their cars or the stock plastic c-hub parts?
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CAR View Post
The guys that have broken front c-hub arms were they running the aluminum truck c-hub parts on their cars or the stock plastic c-hub parts?
The front arm is what I have broken . I been using aluminum parts.
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
The front arm is what I have broken . I been using aluminum parts.
Just wondering if the stiffer aluminum parts put more stress on the plastic arms. I wondering if anyone broke any arms with the stock plastic parts, I have to believe that Xray tested the stock kit with no problems.
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
well, for this race we were in the 40's, then it dropped to the 30's. I only broke the ebuggy.. not the nitro car. there are other guys on the facebook pages, who have had the same issue.. broke only the ebuggy.. not their nitro.. one guy was running in temps where the high was 25, low was down in the single digits.. lol..

and to get more mid corner speed.. you could work caster with the clips on the upper arm a little bit.. maybe even diff setup.. but.. one of the biggest changes i have made for the good sofar on the PBS car is less Kick-up buy going to a lower hole in the front FF blocks.. or go up a little in the FR block..
Thanks, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Probably drop the FFront pin down to start, and move those clips on the upper arm around as those are quick to test.

Are the E-buggies heaver? Wondering if thats what could be pushing those front arms to the breaking point, but I'm sure the cold doesn't help.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Thanks, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Probably drop the FFront pin down to start, and move those clips on the upper arm around as those are quick to test.

Are the E-buggies heaver? Wondering if thats what could be pushing those front arms to the breaking point, but I'm sure the cold doesn't help.
yes.. ebuggies are heavier.. even with the 2x 2s packs, and cut radio tray that i run.. the ebuggy is heavier.. i will try to get an accurate count this weekend.. to see what the weight difference is..
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver View Post
Had a great run today, got about a quarter gallon straight through. First day with the new Sanwa M17 radio (mind blown), also had to re-tune for new fuel, but after that it was dialed! I had two 10 minute runs without a single marshal, and turned my fastest laps to date. PBS consistency is ridiculous, I never once had to guess what the car would do. I could get tight into the corners, and punch out. Mid corner speed is the only thing that needs a little work, and that could probably be resolved with a different tire. I even took a shot at Ryan Lutz style drifting to see if it would work, and with this setup it does. The on power drift is not preferred, but nice to know its very predictable when needed. lol. Probably hit the track with the C-hub car in next two weeks, but want a dialed baseline on the PBS first.

Low to medium traction track test:
Box stock setup except...
Ran +2mm wheel hubs all around as a test(instant stability increase, but dont forget to change your ride height!)
Increased ride height to 28mm front/ 30mm back (stock height wasn't great mid corner with the +2mm wheel hubs, bumping up a couple mm's also made jumping and landing better, still kept stability)

So, question to all?
On a PBS car, if you could make one change to increase mid corner speed/rotation, (off power, not punch drift, lol),.. what would it be? Thanks.



What temp would you consider "cold" for that issue to arise? Running about 40-50 deg here.
what setup are you running ? Got a pic ?
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