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Old 02-07-2018, 01:36 PM
  #3796  
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Originally Posted by rmargiotta View Post
I was never a big fan of the active diff in anything but the truggy back in the day. The gap between the disengaged and engaged is way too narrow, and makes it hard to drive, especially if there is anything that resembles a bump on the track.

A VERY good starting point is the Tessmann base setup. The car and shocks are light years ahead of what we had we you last ran.

See if this link works.

XRAY ::: Set-up Sheet - XB8'18
did I read right somewhere it a nitro/e buggy all in the same? also with these shocks, flash point pistons? etc? thanks
Also no droop measurements? is it just full on?
Thankyou
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:49 PM
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I'll let ya'll guinea pig the FP pistons. I wish they had a 1.3x6.

Ty measures shock length for droop. The pros tend to do that because they always have brand new cars. It's better to use the 30mm blocks and a droop gauge under the hub.

If you set shock length like that on a brand new car, you can get the actual droop reading then. 0 to -1 front and -5 to -9 in the rear works for me.
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
did I read right somewhere it a nitro/e buggy all in the same? also with these shocks, flash point pistons? etc? thanks
Also no droop measurements? is it just full on?
Thankyou
I have a set of FP pistons that I haven't tried yet...probably going to try them this weekend.

But due to overall weight and weight distribution differences, I run 100cst higher in the ebuggy than the nitro, with one step heavier spring in the front since most of that weight is on the nose. Feel free to check out my setups, I could not be happier with how they drive.

No droop measurements because 15 people will come up with 15 different droop settings using blocks and gauges. For the sake of uniformity, measure droop from center of upper shock mount screw to center of shock retainer hole on arm/retaining screw. When building, just make sure the distance from the bottom of the shock bushing to the top of the shock end is the same side to side.
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:40 PM
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Can anyone tell me what the 2 washers are for that come with the throttle linkage?

Here's how I have the linkage setup on my 7TR.





Last edited by Cardiak; 02-10-2018 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 02-10-2018, 08:06 PM
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They go between the spring (fuel tubing) and brake lever.
It appears you have some sort of washer there already

Originally Posted by Cardiak View Post
Can anyone tell me what the 2 washers are for that come with the throttle linkage?

Here's how I have the linkage setup on my 7TR.




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Old 02-10-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kek View Post
They go between the spring (fuel tubing) and brake lever.
It appears you have some sort of washer there already
I put them there so I wouldn't lose them and I had a feeling they might go there lol. Also, does the linkage look like it's setup properly?
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Old 02-10-2018, 08:43 PM
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How does the current version of the XB8 compare to the Kyosho MP9? I'm looking at 1/8 nitro and not sure what I want to go with.
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Old 02-11-2018, 04:30 AM
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Both are nearly perfect right out of the box.

The Xray needs an extra set of front springs, and some thin sway bars. After that you're pretty much set for most tracks.

One of the things I like about Xray is most of the parts on obsolete cars still work on the new cars. If I want to run long arms on my 2016 Xb8, I can steal them from my old Xb9. If I buy a 2018 Xb8, and want short arms for indoors, I can steal them from my 2016 Xb8. I keep the old cars for spare parts because they have no resale value as used cars, and Xray parts are a bit expensive. I wasted the center diff gear on my Ebuggy. It's machined out of dollar bills. I stole the diff gear from my old Xb9, saving a ton of money.

Serpent is a nearly exact copy of the Kyosho, but with Xray quality parts. I'd recommend deciding between Serpent and Xray instead.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:10 AM
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What’s the difference between diff cup v1 and v2? Also stock rear gearing is 46/14 and to go to underdrive gearing u would go to 40/12?
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Old 02-11-2018, 05:58 PM
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Quick question, has anyone gone from mbx7 or Kyosho to Xray? I wheel a TKI4 at the moment, I came from a D815 so it wasn't much different, Kyosho just feels a lil racier! I want to try a pillow ball car now cause they def drive different from C hub. Also me and a buddy messed around with setup on his mbx8 on a practice day, n we could not get the rear locked in no matter what changes we made, another race buddy of mine who use to run a RC8b said he couldn't get the rear end planted to save his life....... Is Xray like the other pillow cars? Or can you get the rear planted?

Last edited by 1evo RRR Driver; 02-11-2018 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Both are nearly perfect right out of the box.

The Xray needs an extra set of front springs, and some thin sway bars. After that you're pretty much set for most tracks.

One of the things I like about Xray is most of the parts on obsolete cars still work on the new cars. If I want to run long arms on my 2016 Xb8, I can steal them from my old Xb9. If I buy a 2018 Xb8, and want short arms for indoors, I can steal them from my 2016 Xb8. I keep the old cars for spare parts because they have no resale value as used cars, and Xray parts are a bit expensive. I wasted the center diff gear on my Ebuggy. It's machined out of dollar bills. I stole the diff gear from my old Xb9, saving a ton of money.

Serpent is a nearly exact copy of the Kyosho, but with Xray quality parts. I'd recommend deciding between Serpent and Xray instead.
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Thank you. With how expensive these kits are, I just want be make sure I make a good choice.
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Quick question, has anyone gone from mbx7 or Kyosho to Xray? I wheel a TKI4 at the moment, I came from a D815 so it wasn't much different, Kyosho just feels a lil racier! I want to try a pillow ball car now cause they def drive different from C hub. Also me and a buddy messed around with setup on his mbx8 on a practice day, n we could not get the rear locked in no matter what changes we made, another race buddy of mine who use to run a RC8b said he couldn't get the rear end planted to save his life....... Is Xray like the other pillow cars? Or can you get the rear planted?
Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes, the XB8 has more rear grip than those other PBS cars fruit of the long rear arms. That's the old XB9 rear end, I still have that car and it's still very good to drive even compared to my MP9 (maybe a bit better but don't tell anyone).
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Last edited by 30Tooth; 02-12-2018 at 03:49 AM. Reason: long instead of wide arms
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Quick question, has anyone gone from mbx7 or Kyosho to Xray? I wheel a TKI4 at the moment, I came from a D815 so it wasn't much different, Kyosho just feels a lil racier! I want to try a pillow ball car now cause they def drive different from C hub. Also me and a buddy messed around with setup on his mbx8 on a practice day, n we could not get the rear locked in no matter what changes we made, another race buddy of mine who use to run a RC8b said he couldn't get the rear end planted to save his life....... Is Xray like the other pillow cars? Or can you get the rear planted?
The '18 has good rear grip on rough tracks. The older Xb8 with the short arms was loose like a Mugen. That's still the hot setup for indoor tracks. The long arm '18 is better outdoors. If you need even more rear grip on bumpy tracks, get a set of universals for the rear instead of cvd's. Cvd's put power down, but get stiff when they do so. Universals stay plush in bumps, but might not get power down as well.

The Kyosho/JQ/HB/Serpent cars are easier to maintain than the Xray/Mugen/Ae cars. The pivot balls need to be cleaned and maintained. But the piivot ball cars have greater adjustment, active caster, and can be adjusted very quickly. Caster is a 3 second adjustment.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Quick question, has anyone gone from mbx7 or Kyosho to Xray? I wheel a TKI4 at the moment, I came from a D815 so it wasn't much different, Kyosho just feels a lil racier! I want to try a pillow ball car now cause they def drive different from C hub. Also me and a buddy messed around with setup on his mbx8 on a practice day, n we could not get the rear locked in no matter what changes we made, another race buddy of mine who use to run a RC8b said he couldn't get the rear end planted to save his life....... Is Xray like the other pillow cars? Or can you get the rear planted?
i am sure there must ne something wrong, because the mbx8 will sure be planted at the rear.
every new car needs a gallon, then adjust from there.
mugen reacts good to changes and even the 7 could be set-up superstable with easy steps.
i personally had both and would never go away from mugen again, xray was huge fault for me and some others i know well in my country.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:34 AM
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i came from TKI2, to xray.. and the TKI seemed like a set it up .. forget it.. for whereever you went.. i liked it. the xray responds well to changes, and works. although the xray seems to be more finiky to track changes. but nothing a slight change in setup wont fix.

the rear grip in the XB8 is awesome.. sometimes too much.. lol.. but, its alot easier to dial out traction if needed.
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