If anyone was wondering about which Outerwears Pre-Filter Air Filter covers fits the NB48 filter, the one made for the RC8 fits very nicely.

Outerwears work well, Have been using this for years. 3M vet wrap. Usually
you can source it local if you check around a bit. The 2" works perfect but
the 4" rolls can be cut in half.



http://www.amazon.com/3M-Vetrap-Band...rds=3m+vetwrap

Thnx for the info.

Several people have asked me for a more detailed description on how to do the
clunk mod to the fuel tanks. So here is a guide to both ways to fix a clunk
coming loose in the tank and also a few tips for keeping the tank from cracking.

First you will need a couple of tools.
1.Body ream
2.Forceps
3.Needle Nose
4.Awl or another tool for removing the C-clip for the tank lid
5.Some thicker than stock fuel tubing. In this case I am using Du-Bro with a
5.5mm OD.


As you can see from the photo wall thickness varies quite a bit between brands. You need to use a tubing with enough thickness to hold itself in the hole without collapsing. The stock line is to thin.

First strip the tank including the Lid and fuel nipple.




Now ream the mounting screw holes so that no flashing remains and the
screws slide through without catching the tank. (See guide on page 1)

If you have not done it already boil the tank for about 10min. Allow to cool in the water. Dont throw
the water out yet you will need it for a pressure test.

Now its time to ream the nipple hole out to fit fuel line. Go slow, only make a rotation or two with the
ream at a time. Keep test fitting it often. It should be quite a tight fit.

The idea here is to open the hole up just enough to push the line in but
not small enough to collapse the line.

The line should be a nice tight fit.

Once you have a proper fit, push enough line through that you can get a hold
of it and pull it through the lid. Attach clunk. Double line the clunk.(Yeah I did not have the double line
in photo)

Now pull the line back out of the tank enough that the clunk rests in the
proper location.

Reinstall the lid and plug the feed line.Put a pressure line on and using the
water we saved from the boiling do a pressure test. With normal lung
pressure you should not be able to cause leaks where we put in fuel line
or the lid.

Use the nipple we removed from the tank as a joint if you need one. Double
line it.

I personally find it easier to put the mounts on the tank and install it from
below.

People have been using alot of different methods but I find the O-rings
work just fine if you add some foam under the tank. A chunk of 1/10 scale
tire foam works perfect. Make sure you keep it out of the spur and off the
pipe. Don't use to stiff of a foam. You only want extra support so the tank
does not rock as much on the mounts and some support under the front
in case you flat land.


I did have a unmodified clunk come loose, but both the tanks in my buggy and truggy have
survived just fine mounting them like this.



Now some people might not want to ream out there tanks or if you are at the track or in a hurry
here is another method that works quite well.

First pull the lid off the tank and splash guard.


Put some fuel tubing over the ends of your forceps.This will keep you from tearing the line.

Remove the clunk and fuel tubing from the nipple

Once you have it out of the tank cut a small piece of tubing from some extra to use as a double line clamp

Using a pair of needle nose pliers spread the line open so you can insert the main section



This next part takes a bit of patience. Using the forceps reinstall the clunk assembly back onto the nipple.
DO NOT push on the double line section as it will slide out of position. Put pressure on the line about an
1/8 of an inch behind the double line section and verify after you install it that the double line section
is in the correct position.


Reinstall the lid and your ready to rock.

Great rundown on that! The second method seems to be the smartest but not the easiest lol.
I would assume the foam still goes under the tank after that second method is done?

Seeing I am putting mine together. Is this something I should do or wait for Tekno to come out with their new tank?

Yes foam still goes under the tank either way. Boiling it will only help even
more. What you do with the clunk is up to you, either works its just a matter
of what your more comfortable with. Dont wait, tank prep is part of nitro
racing and must be done with ANY tank no matter what manufacturer.

Ok,I hope I didnt screw something up but are the turnbuckles meant to be so tight? I just broke my new wrench on one when I went to adjust the toe.
The car is a brand new build and Im setting it all up now.

Yes mate there tight did you put a drop of oil on the thread before threading them in and out a couple of times?

Use quality tools and there should be no issues

Yeah they are tight.Try some chapstick on the threads and ream the threaded section of the rod ends out slightly with a body ream.

Well they are already together and on. I just broke my new VP 4mm wrench on them lol.

I will take them apart and do one of those options.

I usually chuck a turnbuckle up in my cordless drill and run it in and out of all the rod ends a few times at a low speed. Make sure you flip it in the drill and make half of the rod ends right hand thread, and the other half left hand thread. That will free them up and you won't have to worry about breaking wrenches.

Great write up and thanks for putting this together. Shouldn't have to do this much longer. Tanks with new material have been great and so have the new seals. Waiting on a few modifications to the mold and they should be available shortly.

Thanks Matt. I consider tank prep to be part of 1/8 Nitro racing, but i know you
guys want things as close to perfect as possible for your customers. If Tekno's
first Nitro tank is this good the updated ones must be awesome.

Got my NB48 built and broke it in Saturday morning and took 3rd in the A Main that afternoon, my first time ever driving nitro. Thats a testament to the NB48's ease of set up and awesome handling. Gotta plug Reds motors too, wow it broke in with ease and really came to life with only 4-5 tanks through it and it has incredible power.

My rear was still squirelly on power coming out of the turns. Anyone have a good set up sheet for a loose hard packed track thats relatively rough and has nice size jumps?

I also got to run my NB48 for the first time this past weekend, at the beautiful LCRC Raceway in central PA. Somehow I managed to qualify 6 out of 22, and finish 3rd, right behind 2 fully sponsored team drivers for Losi and AE, not bad for my 1st time running nitro anything. The NB48 was amazing! Built it to the stock setup and it drove like a dream. The only thing I was tinkering with was trying to get more brake strength out of it. Coming from eBuggy and 4x4 SCT I was accustom to having a lot of brakes, and nitro's are simply a different beast. I got it to a point where I could hit the brakes hard in air and get the nose to come down, but I think I still have some work to do with it. Could the brake posts back out slightly when they are first run-in?

The only downside was that I broke 2 tanks in the 1st 2 qualifiers. I followed all the tips on how to strengthen them to no avail but it's all good, I know new and improved ones are on the way and Thomas at Tekno took care of me for next weekend. In order to finish my race day I glued some foam between the tank n chassis to get me thru round 3 and the 20 min. main, and it held together fine. I'm sure the 45 degree temps and a MONSTER big air triple played a big part in claiming the lives of my 2 tanks.

Anyway, I'm very, very happy with how the buggy performed Saturday. I'm going to run our ROAR regional series this season, which kicks off next Saturday, and hopefully I'll have a full day of practice Friday to play around with this bad boy.

Can't wait to run some more Nitro!!!