Vision450F

iTrader: (19)

The new 15 deg plastic non inclined caster blocks and spindles are redisigned to maximize steering throw with more clearance for the wheel




First and foremost, Thanks for the highly detailed post for the build, It was very thorough and clear.

But, I had a question about the caster blocks. So no more inclined blocks for the 3.0? I felt they toned down the steering entry whilst giving more exit speed. I'm pretty sure the 2.0's stock blocks had a total of 20 degrees of castor and the new 3.0 now has 15 degrees? Does the chassis have more kick up than stock?

Thanks, Jim

Matthew Bailey

The old blocks were either 10 degree or 12 degree depending on the particular model of car. These are 15 which will give it an additional 3 or 5 degrees over the old cars

At least I think that is correct.

CaseyP

iTrader: (5)

No problem Jim

And yes Matt you are correct

Matthew Bailey

So I assume you have had a chance to run the car a few times. I am curious how the new hubs affected the handling. I have always felt that 12 degree hubs left the car feeling twitchy. I drove the JQ which has 15 or 16 degree hubs and it turned smoother. Did the new hubs have this same type of effect?

voodoopapa

iTrader: (4)

Does the 3.0 come with metric or imperial screws/nuts

Matthew Bailey

Imperial

CaseyP

iTrader: (5)

Yes so far so good. I have been playing with set up and am really happy with the direction I am going with it. The 12's were definitely smoother than the stock 10's. The 15* with the increased kick up is pretty smooth off center and has good mid and exit steering.
Yep

alexrckid

wonder if the 3528 with the metal inserts would be better used for the front diff because i can see it giving less diffing action compared to the 3500 diff cups for the rear. i would imagine that the metal inserts would give the gears a bit more controlled friction...hence, less diffing action and more pull out of the turns..........what do you think...??

Matthew Bailey

You could also just run a thicker oil.

alexrckid

true...as standard practice.........but, in combination would be an experiment. betcha the results would be good.....

Matthew Bailey

Only problem I can see is that it won't be consistent. The more you run the diffs, the smoother they get. It would be hard to keep them consistent with this method. Just using oil means all you have to do is replace the oil to return it to the diff action you want. Unless you really just want to run the old cases to get rid of some extra parts, there is probably no real good reason to do this. Plus I am pretty sure the old cases with steel inserts weigh more so you are increasing rotating mass.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Get DE Diff inserts then the diff weight is negligible. Ive been running mine for quite some time now and haven't noticed a lick of play.

Matthew Bailey

Why bother with them at all? I have run my stock diffs for over a year with no problem. Are they for truggy?

BMenard17

iTrader: (88)

+1 stock diffs lighter and haven't failed me in the last year and a half!

TY@TEAMTEKIN

I know this is the nitro section....But I can't wait to convert one to E!!