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Old 01-19-2019, 04:21 PM
  #3856  
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hallloo!

New to this PBS. What exactly do the caster shims do. Asking for a friend
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:07 PM
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Old 01-20-2019, 03:21 AM
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Default Caster shims

They adjust the caster. Move shims behind the arms for less caster.
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sammy Turtle
They adjust the caster. Move shims behind the arms for less caster.
Well, yes, that's the obvious answer

I know how it works with the C-Hubs, but I think I'm failing to realize how sliding the front upper arm front or to the rear on that hinge pin what it actually does.

I know you can increase or decrease the angle via the pills but still confused about the actual back and forth position on that hinge pin, where those caster shims go. They don't really explain it in the manual and haven't really gotten a clear cut answer searching.

Orrr maybe Im overthinking this and its right in front of me lol.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:22 AM
  #3860  
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
Well, yes, that's the obvious answer

I know how it works with the C-Hubs, but I think I'm failing to realize how sliding the front upper arm front or to the rear on that hinge pin what it actually does.

I know you can increase or decrease the angle via the pills but still confused about the actual back and forth position on that hinge pin, where those caster shims go. They don't really explain it in the manual and haven't really gotten a clear cut answer searching.

Orrr maybe Im overthinking this and its right in front of me lol.
When you move the upper arms back/forth it changes the angle of the steering block.
hope that helps.
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:04 AM
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When you move the upper arm forward you are making the steering knuckle more upright thereby decreasing caster which will make the car more reactive to steering angle and less stable over bumps. Moving the upper are back will increase caster, decreasing steering a little bit but increasing stability. This is the same concept as changing caster inserts for the hinge pin at the bottom of a C-hub.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:16 PM
  #3862  
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Durrr me.

Thanks guys.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
Well, yes, that's the obvious answer

I know how it works with the C-Hubs, but I think I'm failing to realize how sliding the front upper arm front or to the rear on that hinge pin what it actually does.

I know you can increase or decrease the angle via the pills but still confused about the actual back and forth position on that hinge pin, where those caster shims go. They don't really explain it in the manual and haven't really gotten a clear cut answer searching.

Orrr maybe Im overthinking this and its right in front of me lol.

The angle of the upper arm changes the "active" caster. Most people cannot explain it, so I recommend you keep them equal front to back.
The arm position, front to rear changes the actual caster.
The pills for the lower arm are for kickup.
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CedarCityJohnny
When you move the upper arm forward you are making the steering knuckle more upright thereby decreasing caster which will make the car more reactive to steering angle and less stable over bumps. Moving the upper are back will increase caster, decreasing steering a little bit but increasing stability. This is the same concept as changing caster inserts for the hinge pin at the bottom of a C-hub.
I believe this is the explanation I'm looking for. The actual what does sliding the front upper arms fore or aft do and what affects it has. I definitely understand the kickup and caster adjustments, but since Ive been a C-hub kinda guy my whole life, had no clue what moving the upper arm fore or aft did.

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahak2137
I ran a short link this weekend on a blown out track with very little bite. I had the same results. Certainly worth a try if you're racing on low bite tracks.
Are you talking about the outer holes on the rear shock tower?
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230


Are you talking about the outer holes on the rear shock tower?
That was a long time ago! At that time I shortened the link on the hub, but I have not run a short link in quite some time.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:30 PM
  #3867  
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Tried the new AE angle drilled pistons, they seem really nice, and made the car much better on a bumpy track. I was running the Kyosho angle drilled 8X1.3 versions previously and, performance seems identical to those. It is nice having the 1.2 angle drilled option as well from AE, but I have not tried them yet, I will next time out..

Also I just ordered the new under drive rear ring and pinion. Going to give that a try.

I've been running the car at Revelation here in So Cal one night a week the last few weeks just trying to dial it in and learn what the car likes. It is getting closer, but I end up spending time adjusting for the large temp swings that tighten the car up in the evenings. I have a couple sets of shocks and have the day to night setups pretty close. The problem is that the track is rougher every week, so my night setup turns into my daytime setup for the next week, and I have to come up with a softer night setup.

I'm really liking the car overall. The car is really durable and easy to work on. I was going to run DNC, I raced in the first 3 of them in Hemet and haven't since, but I have a 24 hours on Lemons race in AZ that same weekend.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by largeorangefont
Tried the new AE angle drilled pistons, they seem really nice, and made the car much better on a bumpy track. I was running the Kyosho angle drilled 8X1.3 versions previously and, performance seems identical to those. It is nice having the 1.2 angle drilled option as well from AE, but I have not tried them yet, I will next time out..

Also I just ordered the new under drive rear ring and pinion. Going to give that a try.

I've been running the car at Revelation here in So Cal one night a week the last few weeks just trying to dial it in and learn what the car likes. It is getting closer, but I end up spending time adjusting for the large temp swings that tighten the car up in the evenings. I have a couple sets of shocks and have the day to night setups pretty close. The problem is that the track is rougher every week, so my night setup turns into my daytime setup for the next week, and I have to come up with a softer night setup.

I'm really liking the car overall. The car is really durable and easy to work on. I was going to run DNC, I raced in the first 3 of them in Hemet and haven't since, but I have a 24 hours on Lemons race in AZ that same weekend.

I really liked running the 42/12 gears at Rev. That surface can get pretty rough and the under drive gears help keep me from getting out of control as quickly.. especially when i'm running a fire breather OS motor

I'd also like to point out that the AE angle tapered pistons are not identical to the Kyosho pistons. There are some subtle differences that I think make them a lot better suited for our car.

Have you tried the short link, narrow pivot setup at Rev yet? If not, you should give it a try. Compared to the longer link normal setup, the car rounds through corners a lot smoother and with less twitchy input to the steering wheel.
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Old 01-31-2019, 04:43 PM
  #3869  
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Default RC8B3 Arms

Are the 3.1 Front and Rear lower arms compatible on the 3?
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Old 01-31-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by artis1
Are the 3.1 Front and Rear lower arms compatible on the 3?
Yes, direct fit.
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