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Old 09-05-2016, 09:19 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:47 AM
  #4186  
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Originally Posted by mugen81
Who drive a 3.2 make please some comparison with the 3.1...handling on the track?
The big geometry change on the 8.2 are the narrower rear arm mounts with longer rear arms.
That has a massive difference in how the rear end behaves, as the roll center stays lower throughout the turn, compared to the 3.1 short arm setup.
The end result is that the rear end reacts a lot smoother.
To bring up the level or response in the rear end, I run stiffer rear springs and sometimes higher roll center.
Also, I find a slightly longer front upper arm helps to balance out the feel of the longer rear arm.

The other very noticeable change is the new shock bladders. Compared to emulsion, it makes the car more responsive, which I like. You can still run emulsion if that's your preference.
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Old 09-22-2020, 01:04 PM
  #4187  
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Is there any time that you switch back to the short arms?
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Old 09-23-2020, 03:13 PM
  #4188  
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
Is there any time that you switch back to the short arms?
No, I haven't. In general the car is more stable and predictable with the longer rear arms.
And it's such a big change that you have to dial the rest of your setup to it. Going back would take a bit of unwinding, and I can't see where it would be a benefit... maybe on a very small track with tight switchbacks?
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:45 PM
  #4189  
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Originally Posted by Yelreppa
Need a tank for a rc8.2 does any other tank that fits

Cheers
I have tons of 3.2 tanks if they will fit. pm me
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Old 11-03-2020, 11:26 AM
  #4190  
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I had seen a lot of Losi owners putting the Tekno hinge pin bushings in their arms, and I decided to try it in my RC8B3.2. Well worth it in my opinion. It really frees up the arms and keeps them that way. No more dust making everything tighten up after a couple of runs. So far I haven't seen any durability issues at all, although I only did the lower arms. I will try doing the upper front arms at some point. If you want to try it, use a #9 drill bit (0.196) and drill all the way through. I used a drill press at a low speed. You aren't removing much material at all so if the arm tries to "walk" up the bit, just let it. The bushing will be press fit, but not tight. The part number for the bushings is TKR9055.

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Old 12-08-2020, 07:20 PM
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Any new update coming for the ae 1/8th platform?

It seems everything is quiet and seeing some race pics no new part is being tested....
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Old 12-08-2020, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by asirolli
Any new update coming for the ae 1/8th platform?

It seems everything is quiet and seeing some race pics no new part is being tested....
The latest updates have been out for less than a year. I doubt we'll see anything new soon.
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Old 01-05-2021, 07:38 PM
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Default Drive pins

I know I have read it in this thread, just can't find it. Has anyone got the part numbers for drive pins to replace ones worn on the front/rear and centre drive shafts. I think it was 2 separate numbers from memory.

Thanks in advance.

Ta,

Rob
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Old 01-06-2021, 09:45 AM
  #4194  
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Originally Posted by bk2racer
I know I have read it in this thread, just can't find it. Has anyone got the part numbers for drive pins to replace ones worn on the front/rear and centre drive shafts. I think it was 2 separate numbers from memory.

Thanks in advance.

Ta,

Rob
I've been using the Mugen C0270 pins 3x12.8mm on all driveshafts, front, rear and center, for a few years now.
They actually measure out to just under that: 12.75mm and fit perfectly into the outdrives, that measure at 12.63 +/- 0.02 at the slot, depending on where you measure them.

I know that some guys opted for slightly shorter pins in the middle, like the H0853 3x11.8, to make sure that they don't interfere with the brake disk. I didn't find any issues with using the same 12.8 pins... even if they measure out a hair wider, if you run your finger across they don't protrude out. Also, the brake disk opening is 13.20mm and there's enough slop in the system... it's never been a problem for me.
I found the shorter ones way too short, when I tried them... they don't engage on the entire outdrive and wear a groove in faster.
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Old 01-06-2021, 02:53 PM
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Thanks very much.
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Old 01-07-2021, 03:01 PM
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Default Pillow balls

I didn’t find this on this thread, so let’s begin

Why some cars @ the Words were using aluminum pillow balls in the upper and steel in the lower?




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Old 01-08-2021, 04:27 AM
  #4197  
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Originally Posted by asirolli
I didn’t find this on this thread, so let’s begin

Why some cars @ the Words were using aluminum pillow balls in the upper and steel in the lower?



Lower the center of gravity. Also helps with un-sprung weight as well as removing or adding weight to the front of the car.
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:37 AM
  #4198  
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Originally Posted by asirolli
I didn’t find this on this thread, so let’s begin

Why some cars @ the Words were using aluminum pillow balls in the upper and steel in the lower?



More importantly, are those bump steer spacers offered by anyone?

No idea why they designed this car with so much bump steer in the first place.
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Old 01-11-2021, 10:33 AM
  #4199  
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Originally Posted by largeorangefont
More importantly, are those bump steer spacers offered by anyone?

No idea why they designed this car with so much bump steer in the first place.
Good eye!

Those look like the Mugen front hub carriers... their steering arm mounts much lower compared to the AE ones.
To the naked eye, the spacer seems to bring the steering arm back up to match the AE geometry.
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Old 01-11-2021, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rc pete
Good eye!

Those look like the Mugen front hub carriers... their steering arm mounts much lower compared to the AE ones.
To the naked eye, the spacer seems to bring the steering arm back up to match the AE geometry.
After a second look, agreed. Although I have been meaning to try to change the geometry to reduce the bump steer.
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