Mugen MBX7
#4396
Wing higher: more stability at high speed
wing lower: more stability at lower speeds
wing forward: less rear downforce
wing backward: more rear downforce
steeper angle: more rear downforce
flatter angle: less rear downforce
so for the most DF you would mount the wing at the steepest angle, furthest back and in the highest position.
#4398
on a different note, if people are really struggling for rear on power grip even with 5-5-2, ive suggested to a few friends to try a 14T cluthbell if you have an angry motor lol. the 4BTT's for instance have stupid bottom and the 14 bell i initially ran to help with some speed down the straight. But i liked the way it just took that edgyness off when you are hard on the throttle out of a corner and even when letting go into a corner. the transition if i call call it that is real smooth.
#4402
Tech Addict
#4403
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I have tried shimming the diff both ways and with out shims. It doesn't feel to tight. Actually right now the backlash feels pretty good. Its just noisy and notchy at low speeds. If i spin it fast it feels smooth but slowly turning it it feels notchy and even "catches" sometimes. I am going to make a video of it tonight. I actually think its ok and just needs run in. It just not quite as smooth as other cars I have built.
Last edited by masher81; 05-15-2013 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Spelling
#4404
I have tried shimming the diff both ways and with out shims. It doesn't feel to tight. Actually right now the backlash feels pretty good. Its just noisy and notchy at low speeds. If i spin it fast it feels smooth but slowly turning it it feels notchy and even "catches" sometimes. I am going to make a video of it tonight. I actually think its ok and just needs run in. It just not quite as smooth as other cars I have built.
If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
#4405
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Most guys (including me) have build their cars with 1 shim on the opposite of the ringgear and 1 on the outside of the gearbox where the pinion is. I heard that in the update kits, there's no shim needed for the pinion. But I'm not 100% sure of that.
If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
#4406
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Most guys (including me) have build their cars with 1 shim on the opposite of the ringgear and 1 on the outside of the gearbox where the pinion is. I heard that in the update kits, there's no shim needed for the pinion. But I'm not 100% sure of that.
If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
#4407
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Sounds good guys. I found the problem with the binding .. There was a small piece of plastic stuff in one of the teeth. It was very small and hard to find under the grease. All seems good now. I ended up not using any shims. Thanks for all your help!
On an other note.. the kit has been going together very well....perfect fitment on everything. I like the instructions and the flow of the build. Its a little different from other cars. Other kits you start with a chassis and build off of it. Here you build everything and then bolt the sections to the chassis near the end.
BTW, has any tried the fioroni pistons in this car?
On an other note.. the kit has been going together very well....perfect fitment on everything. I like the instructions and the flow of the build. Its a little different from other cars. Other kits you start with a chassis and build off of it. Here you build everything and then bolt the sections to the chassis near the end.
BTW, has any tried the fioroni pistons in this car?
#4408