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Mugen MBX7

Old 05-15-2013, 03:03 AM
  #4396  
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Originally Posted by ddick
You can mount the wing in different positions.

Centered or with offset.

Has anyone tried this ? What is the difference ?

Does it really influence the car ?
from the hudy setup guide:

Wing higher: more stability at high speed
wing lower: more stability at lower speeds
wing forward: less rear downforce
wing backward: more rear downforce
steeper angle: more rear downforce
flatter angle: less rear downforce

so for the most DF you would mount the wing at the steepest angle, furthest back and in the highest position.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:46 AM
  #4397  
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Originally Posted by jnorwood_losi
Also I just ordered the M2C front weight kits (for the pillow ball assembly) and their directions say use a little blue threadlock when putting them in, but they screw into plastic??!! Loctite and plastic dont mix, it eats plastic
Use loctite 425 it is made specifically for plastic. It is expensive but well worth it. I found it at McMaster Carr company.
Doug
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:23 AM
  #4398  
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob

on a different note, if people are really struggling for rear on power grip even with 5-5-2, ive suggested to a few friends to try a 14T cluthbell if you have an angry motor lol. the 4BTT's for instance have stupid bottom and the 14 bell i initially ran to help with some speed down the straight. But i liked the way it just took that edgyness off when you are hard on the throttle out of a corner and even when letting go into a corner. the transition if i call call it that is real smooth.
Also, 44 spur will work
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:20 AM
  #4399  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Before you do that loosen the 4 screws that hold together the diff case. It might be that you over tightened them


It is the same with only half of the diff case.

Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
That is definitely not normal. I would take it apart and do it again. Remember, only use the 2 o-rings for the large gears. Don't use the small o-rings for the 4 small gears. Also, make sure the o-rings are seated properly.

Its not the internal diffgears. Those feel fine. Its the ring and pinon.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:25 AM
  #4400  
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Originally Posted by mr240
For my 6r and 6t I used the small shims and no orings for the spider gears. Is this still the same for the 7. Ordering a 7 soon and want to make sure I build the diffs right.

There were no O-Rings for the spider gears. There was a green spacer. The only O-rings were the ones that went over the outdrive.. then there was a green spacer/washer that went over that.. then the gear.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:32 AM
  #4401  
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Originally Posted by masher81
It is the same with only half of the diff case.




Its not the internal diffgears. Those feel fine. Its the ring and pinon.
Sounds like you might have to play with the shims on the large bearings. Most people have shimmed the diff away from the pinion.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:46 AM
  #4402  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Sounds like you might have to play with the shims on the large bearings. Most people have shimmed the diff away from the pinion.
+1

itīs all about precise shimming there. really worth the time & has to be checked & re-shimmed after the first gallon.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:53 PM
  #4403  
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I have tried shimming the diff both ways and with out shims. It doesn't feel to tight. Actually right now the backlash feels pretty good. Its just noisy and notchy at low speeds. If i spin it fast it feels smooth but slowly turning it it feels notchy and even "catches" sometimes. I am going to make a video of it tonight. I actually think its ok and just needs run in. It just not quite as smooth as other cars I have built.

Last edited by masher81; 05-15-2013 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:14 AM
  #4404  
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Originally Posted by masher81
I have tried shimming the diff both ways and with out shims. It doesn't feel to tight. Actually right now the backlash feels pretty good. Its just noisy and notchy at low speeds. If i spin it fast it feels smooth but slowly turning it it feels notchy and even "catches" sometimes. I am going to make a video of it tonight. I actually think its ok and just needs run in. It just not quite as smooth as other cars I have built.
Most guys (including me) have build their cars with 1 shim on the opposite of the ringgear and 1 on the outside of the gearbox where the pinion is. I heard that in the update kits, there's no shim needed for the pinion. But I'm not 100% sure of that.

If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:30 AM
  #4405  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Most guys (including me) have build their cars with 1 shim on the opposite of the ringgear and 1 on the outside of the gearbox where the pinion is. I heard that in the update kits, there's no shim needed for the pinion. But I'm not 100% sure of that.

If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
Yeh I have the new updated kit and didn't need any shims, checked them after about 3.5ltrs of running and there still fine.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:31 AM
  #4406  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Most guys (including me) have build their cars with 1 shim on the opposite of the ringgear and 1 on the outside of the gearbox where the pinion is. I heard that in the update kits, there's no shim needed for the pinion. But I'm not 100% sure of that.

If you have backslash in some places and a little binding in some places, just run the car. Everything will free up after a few runs
Yeh I have the new updated kit and didn't need any shims, checked them after about 3.5ltrs of running and there still fine.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:02 AM
  #4407  
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Sounds good guys. I found the problem with the binding .. There was a small piece of plastic stuff in one of the teeth. It was very small and hard to find under the grease. All seems good now. I ended up not using any shims. Thanks for all your help!

On an other note.. the kit has been going together very well....perfect fitment on everything. I like the instructions and the flow of the build. Its a little different from other cars. Other kits you start with a chassis and build off of it. Here you build everything and then bolt the sections to the chassis near the end.

BTW, has any tried the fioroni pistons in this car?
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:12 AM
  #4408  
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Originally Posted by masher81

BTW, has any tried the fioroni pistons in this car?
Man I love these piston. They work for me vs the stock piston.

I tried the stock piston and the Fioroni piston back to back and my buggy was a lot better for my way of driving.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:15 AM
  #4409  
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My kit arrives today...woohoo. Does the kit come with the grease mentioned to install at outdrives, orings, ect. if not is Lucas red and tacky safe for the Mugen Orings?
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:32 AM
  #4410  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Man I love these piston. They work for me vs the stock piston.

I tried the stock piston and the Fioroni piston back to back and my buggy was a lot better for my way of driving.

Cool. I ordered a 2 sets.. one for my D8/tekno and one for MBX7 .. what oils did you go with?
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