Hudy Setup Station
10-21-2012, 05:19 PM
#1
Hudy Setup Station
What are you guys using to setup your cars. Hudy only makes 30mm blocks which doesn't make any sense to me. How do they account for tire size and your actual running ride height?For buggy it's fairly close to what I run but for truggy we have a huge gap. Of course you should setup your car according to feel but it's nice to have a good starting point.
10-21-2012, 05:46 PM
#3
I've been using this for my buggy for quite some time, but the truggy I just picked up so I haven't had the chance to mess with it. Not to mention I haven't purchased the truggy plate yet. I'm wondering how much someone would charge me to make some blocks. I think it's silly that Hudy hasn't made some different sizes.
10-21-2012, 06:01 PM
#4
For truggy, integy makes a set of 40mm blocks that work. That's what I used when I was running truggy, still have them in my bag.
As for measuring from the 30mm block, that's very close to what your ride height will be. Remember though, it's just a reference point because your camber is ever changing during suspension travel.
The whole intention of the setup station is to be able to have consistent measuring points that can be replicated. Set your camber with the car on the blocks then run it. If you need more, throw it back on the blocks and add or subtract as needed.
For droop, I too have switched to measuring the shocks. You have to be careful using this method too. You also need to ensure that the wheels are level and leave the ground at the same time. You don't want to lift the car and have one wheel still making contact while the other is in the air. If that happens and your shocks are the same length, then your arms are bent.
As for measuring from the 30mm block, that's very close to what your ride height will be. Remember though, it's just a reference point because your camber is ever changing during suspension travel.
The whole intention of the setup station is to be able to have consistent measuring points that can be replicated. Set your camber with the car on the blocks then run it. If you need more, throw it back on the blocks and add or subtract as needed.
For droop, I too have switched to measuring the shocks. You have to be careful using this method too. You also need to ensure that the wheels are level and leave the ground at the same time. You don't want to lift the car and have one wheel still making contact while the other is in the air. If that happens and your shocks are the same length, then your arms are bent.
10-22-2012, 03:43 AM
#7
10-22-2012, 09:05 AM
#10
I made my own blockd out of wood based on the ride heights that I normally run. In addition, it sure would be nice if droop was put on setup sheets like the on road cars do based off of the lowest point of the arm from the setup board instead of the inaccurate method of using the shock lengths.
10-22-2012, 03:16 PM
#12
Measuring shock length for droop gives less accurate and less repeatable readings. Setting by shock length can have as much as a 3mm error in the actual droop at the hub. Warped arms, and poor eyes have a huge effect on these tolerances.
Tire ht deosn't matter. Your tires aren't on when you do the setup. I don't change ride ht when I change tires much.
Use the 30mm blocks to get consistant settings. Feel free to remove the blocks and recheck your settings after jouncing to ride ht if you want to, but record your setting on the 30 degree blocks so that it's easy to duplicate your setup. Expect your readings to need an extra degree or so of camber when your on the 30mm blocks if you run lower usually.
Ride ht is such a dynamic setting. I set my rear arms level, front below level. Make sure that is actually the way they are by watching the car closely on the straights. Beyond that i rarely measure Ride ht. I increase or decrease it by feel, one turn at a time. But I do take note how many turns of preload I have, and how long ago I cleaned my hinge pins.
Xray and Mugen hold settings very well. Very strong plastic and rod ends. One crash will not wreck your setup.
AE and HB don't. Losi seems good if you use the Xray rod ends.
Tire ht deosn't matter. Your tires aren't on when you do the setup. I don't change ride ht when I change tires much.
Use the 30mm blocks to get consistant settings. Feel free to remove the blocks and recheck your settings after jouncing to ride ht if you want to, but record your setting on the 30 degree blocks so that it's easy to duplicate your setup. Expect your readings to need an extra degree or so of camber when your on the 30mm blocks if you run lower usually.
Ride ht is such a dynamic setting. I set my rear arms level, front below level. Make sure that is actually the way they are by watching the car closely on the straights. Beyond that i rarely measure Ride ht. I increase or decrease it by feel, one turn at a time. But I do take note how many turns of preload I have, and how long ago I cleaned my hinge pins.
Xray and Mugen hold settings very well. Very strong plastic and rod ends. One crash will not wreck your setup.
AE and HB don't. Losi seems good if you use the Xray rod ends.
Last edited by Zerodefect; 10-22-2012 at 03:31 PM.
10-22-2012, 03:27 PM
#13
10-22-2012, 04:07 PM
#14
I've tried both methods of setting up a car, with the Hudy station and my way, and my cars handle better when I use some calipers and a camber gauge only, and eyeballing ride height and toe out. The expensive Hudy gadgets don't make my car handle better, so I don't see any point in using a friend's setup station, or buying one. To set camber, I always use -2 all around and then measure the length of the turnbuckle exposed, from rod end to rod end to make sure they are the same on both sides. If the lengths are the same but the camber is different, you need to replace other parts i.e. warped arms, bent parts, etc.. Most of the time if the tires are catching ruts and you have -2 camber, it would be more beneficial if you raised the roll center, or shortened the link to get more camber gain, instead of increasing camber.
For toe out, I run my car on the track and adjust it until it feels the best, then confirm with calipers that the two links are the same length. For ride height, adjust until it feels the best, and use calipers to make sure preload is equal. Although after a while you can pinpoint the ride height within 1-2mm by looking at it. To set droop, I hold a wing post or front shock tower (whatever is in the center of that end) and drop the car from one end, and measure the amount of down travel, making sure the tires/arms both hit the ground at the same time. I think with tires is less accurate because you are adding another variable, unless you can change the rear hub height on your car, which will change the down travel. In that case you can measure droop with tires on, and compare it with other drivers running a higher/lower rear hub height. I don't like measuring shock lengths solely for setting down travel because there is too much uncertainty, and you can be a few mm off from the next guy.
For toe out, I run my car on the track and adjust it until it feels the best, then confirm with calipers that the two links are the same length. For ride height, adjust until it feels the best, and use calipers to make sure preload is equal. Although after a while you can pinpoint the ride height within 1-2mm by looking at it. To set droop, I hold a wing post or front shock tower (whatever is in the center of that end) and drop the car from one end, and measure the amount of down travel, making sure the tires/arms both hit the ground at the same time. I think with tires is less accurate because you are adding another variable, unless you can change the rear hub height on your car, which will change the down travel. In that case you can measure droop with tires on, and compare it with other drivers running a higher/lower rear hub height. I don't like measuring shock lengths solely for setting down travel because there is too much uncertainty, and you can be a few mm off from the next guy.
10-22-2012, 04:28 PM
#15
Was not saying they are not important, Just use a camber gauge and eye ball the toe the best you can. My point is the topic was about the hudy setup station, For touring car yes I would buy it. But for 1/8 off road, no way I would spend that much cash for it. In off road alot of settings change to much threw the course of a half hour main to worry about spending that kind of money.