Sure, but what he's driving is some kind of Frankenstein vehicle, where basicly only the chassis and transmission is HB D8, the suspension is off a Hotbodies Lightning, the shock towers are custom made carbon units, the shocks are off a Kyosho MP9, and in all this vehicle, if any normal person were to built it the same, would cost upwards of $1000.

So you can't use Tessman's success to legitimize purchasing a Hotbodies D8, because what he's racing is not what comes in the box for the consumer.

However if you bought an MBX6R or a Kyosho MP9 TKI3, you are getting basicly what the pro drivers drive AND WIN with, so you are ready to go right out of the box.

You don't really believe that, do you?

The Pros don't run out of the box vehicles.

The following was posted by AE, but it holds true for all the factories.

"Team Associated are testing some new option parts for the RC8B that at this time include prototype shock towers and modified RC8 arms for new shock mount locations in the arm, rather than on risers. At this point all parts are hand-made prototypes. Due to limited availability, the drivers that will be using custom parts for the World Championships are: Robert Batlle, Ryan Cavalieri, Neil Cragg, Craig Drescher, Ryan Maifield, J.R. Mitch, Richard Saxton

After the Worlds Champs race, Associated will consider which option parts work the best and will be released for sale to our customers".

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=9023

Did you actually just exclude serpent, losi, durango etc? Sure sure, I see xray fanboys everywhere saying it's a tank. Alright even if it is. Does it matter? A car setup properly NOT being a frankenstein can still easily beat anyone at a club IF the driver is skilled. I'm a hypocrite for saying this, but just let the OP which car (D8 or D8T) you think he should get and then be done with this? This argument is another this vs this thread.

Again my opinion
D8 Hara Edition?
Nova Plus 21-4 BTT
Nova 9901/41021 Combo
Futaba BLS351
Futaba BL352
a LiFe Rx pack
Maybe a 4pl if you don't have a 2.4ghz (A good investment)
A little bit of staple parts
Fuel
Starter box
etc

That setup seems pretty good.

OH

And a 1/8 setup station, it's fun tinkering around.

Get a hudy if possible ;) quality second to none.

why the heck do people insist on hammering someone with other options if they already posted .. one or the other.. D8 or D8T...

and the list you generated is only In your opinion.. its not a general rule... i will agree the MP9 is the easiest to succeed with..... but that my opinion.. and the price point doesn't really sell it much...

but all factors weighed in.. the D8 is probably the easiest car to drive...

the D8 is a very capable car.. many seem to forget that Hot Bodies placed 5 or 7 guys in the Final of the 2008 Worlds with that car.. and everyone except for Hara was running a stock car but lightened with titanium screws and knick knacks... fact remains its a capable car.. and if Tessman is trying to make it a better car.. then thats what has t be done.. LOSI asked that no one photographed there car.. so who knows what they were running... every single pro have done stuff to their car to make it work/ better..

My HB D8t was a chinzy POS. It only works on smooth pro tracks, blown out club races kick it around. Very little adjustment. Soft gear cases, poor hingepin capturing. Loves to flex an arm and toss a pin in the middle of my mains.

I don't see anyone running HB cars anymore.:confused:

If your going to go truggy get the Mugen and only the Mugen.
If you go buggy get the Xray Xb9 or the Mugen.

The rest:
OS 21XZB
2090 pipe
Novarossi short compact header
OS P3 plugs
Byrons 30%
Hitec 7955 servos
2s lipo Rx pack, straight up, no reg
Airtronics M11x (soon to be dirt cheap since the M12 is coming out)
Ofna Truggy box on 4s 5000mah lipo

never had any of the problems noted above... just replaced hinge pin holders after 1.5 years of racing.. i replace my arms at the end of the season.. never broke one.. and my truck handle the rough just fine.. could use a little more travel.. and that was rectified with the rear buggy tower(hara ed.) on the front with the long shocks..

either way.. the OP asked if to go with D8 or D8T...

The Mugen and Xray need progressive springs and maybe a set of +1 hub for the rear. That's all. You posted all that when you know that the Mugen barely needs any work for top level racing.

Too many HB and AE drivers have more money in hop ups than the cost of the kit. The AE guys try more goofball handbuilt parts than any other brand I've seen. I'd rather buy the car that needs less parts.

Both AE and HB use a 1/10th scale hinge pin capture style. Dinky little screws and washers on the arms. Pathetic, and has no right on a 1/8th scale buggy.

I would go with Mugen for buggy, its rock solid and super durable.

I found this earlier, I would buy it myself if I didn't already have a Mugen: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...per-clean.html

awesome deal for sure love RCTECH

This is totaly looked at the wrong way.

EVERY BRAND that people buy they want alloy hubs, alloy toe blocks etc/ upgrades in general

the MP9 comes with these OUT OF THE BOX with a pre dailed setup that will work pretty much anywhere.

so to all the kyosho haters, the mp9 is the same price if not cheaper then some of the other brands...

by the time you load all your upgrades into your losi's hb, ae's, mugens etc your looking at the same or even more then the mp9 that comes with the upgrades from the factory, then plus add the kyosho quality and boom, a reasonable priced kit with good quality parts.

All kits have their glitches, Kyosho included. At one time, ring and pinion gears were self destructing, axles were breaking, outdrives were breaking. Took Kyosho a long time to get some 93mm axles out. So a boom is just as possible with a Kyosho.

past is the past the tki3 is out and is 100%

HB is a good car, I've been beaten by plenty of them. They do seem to have a lot of prototype cars floating around the pro ranks. I wouldn't be surprised if they settle on a new kit after the worlds. Since you are buying around tax time, that may work out.

All the motor, servo and radio suggestions seem a little high end for a new racer.

For your first nitro motor, don't spend over $200. You will learn on your first motor and probably not get the life out of it to warrant spending $400. Nova P5XLT would be a great starter motor, catch Amain on the right sale and you can get for $190.

Servos - Savox HV 1268 and 1267
Radio - Airtronics MX-3X or MT-4
Lipo receiver pack and charger
Starter box, don't spend much on it, look for someone selling out and buy used.

Tires, these get expensive. Try to learn what tires work best at your track and then only buy what you need. If you can buy tires only, get AKA red foams and re-use a few times. If wheels are in good shape you can re-use them as well, just takes a little work to remove tires. Hot bodies and Sweep will sell tires without foams, may be some others.

For the most part, focus spending on things that will make you faster. Don't get caught up on fancy tools, pit accessories or all the other gear out there to spend money on.

best post on this thread... very good advice...