Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1
#2206
I was at a race and started with the new parts. Steering felt good and the track was rough. For my last qual i decided to change back over to the old to see what would happen. My car found bumps and ruts that i never thought were there, the steering was more nervous and I was crashing in places I didnt all weekend. For the main I changed back to the new system and was back to being dialed!
#2207
Tech Initiate
@ Rxmeador
Thanks for your feedback
Can anyone make "before and after" images so that a distinction was to be seen during installation? I can imagine very difficult pictorially, especially with the Kevlar parts.
...
Thanks for your feedback
Can anyone make "before and after" images so that a distinction was to be seen during installation? I can imagine very difficult pictorially, especially with the Kevlar parts.
...
You are very welcome Elektroman99
Thank you, I feel comfortable here and have already received some tips and aids. For a fat "thank you"
[...]
1) My Firefox browser always warns me the website is not certified!!
yes, that was with me, but ... ok did not stop me
2) There must be more Serpent model owners in the world, than just the ones
in that forum.
Absolutely correct, there must be hundreds if not thousands more ... but unfortunately there hardly anyone writes, rather none. OK ... is just so you can change it only slightly.
3) Maybe we all just prefer to be here in R/C Tech Forums, because it is the best 'Fountain Of Knowledge' in our sport anyway.
Then I try to support this knowledge pool, with my "limited" opportunities
[...]
Thank you, I feel comfortable here and have already received some tips and aids. For a fat "thank you"
[...]
1) My Firefox browser always warns me the website is not certified!!
yes, that was with me, but ... ok did not stop me
2) There must be more Serpent model owners in the world, than just the ones
in that forum.
Absolutely correct, there must be hundreds if not thousands more ... but unfortunately there hardly anyone writes, rather none. OK ... is just so you can change it only slightly.
3) Maybe we all just prefer to be here in R/C Tech Forums, because it is the best 'Fountain Of Knowledge' in our sport anyway.
Then I try to support this knowledge pool, with my "limited" opportunities
[...]
Last edited by Elektroman99; 12-04-2015 at 04:04 AM.
#2208
Tech Addict
I was at a race and started with the new parts. Steering felt good and the track was rough. For my last qual i decided to change back over to the old to see what would happen. My car found bumps and ruts that i never thought were there, the steering was more nervous and I was crashing in places I didnt all weekend. For the main I changed back to the new system and was back to being dialed!
#2209
rear end
any chance someone could post a pic of which way the new rear uprights go on the 2.2 please
#2210
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
So I noticed that every set up I have seen for the 811 buggies has the front hubs in the high position. Is there a reason nobody uses the lower position? I always thought the lower hub position would give a little more off power steering, but in another thread I read it effects axle bind. If the high position has less axle bind I could see why everyone uses it, but then why even have the lower position?
#2211
anyone have a pic of the new ackerman installed?
#2212
I notice your signature details are recently missing; but from your old posts I remembered you used to run GO engine and Novarossi rex.
Can you tell me how big you set your carburettor idle gap please?
I know there is very long thread on engine tuning here in RCTech, but I don't see any specific tips and tricks for GO Engines.
Recently I purchased a new GO GXII 5+2 port engine (No longer in production http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view.as...3&area=1&cat=1)
and I am still running it in, with carburettor idle set at .80mm.
There is no setting for this gap in the user manual piece of paper but I thought you may have a better suggestion. Thank you.
.
Last edited by Palebushman; 12-16-2015 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Added link for clarity :-)
#2213
Hi cczjordan,
I notice your signature details are recently missing; but from your old posts I remembered you used to run GO engine and Novarossi rex.
Can you tell me how big you set your carburettor idle gap please?
I know there is very long thread on engine tuning here in RCTech, but I don't see any specific tips and tricks for GO Engines.
Recently I purchased a new GO GXII 5+2 port engine (No longer in production http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view.as...3&area=1&cat=1)
and I am still running it in, with carburettor idle set at .80mm.
There is no setting for this gap in the user manual piece of paper but I thought you may have a better suggestion. Thank you.
.
I notice your signature details are recently missing; but from your old posts I remembered you used to run GO engine and Novarossi rex.
Can you tell me how big you set your carburettor idle gap please?
I know there is very long thread on engine tuning here in RCTech, but I don't see any specific tips and tricks for GO Engines.
Recently I purchased a new GO GXII 5+2 port engine (No longer in production http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view.as...3&area=1&cat=1)
and I am still running it in, with carburettor idle set at .80mm.
There is no setting for this gap in the user manual piece of paper but I thought you may have a better suggestion. Thank you.
.
Imo any engines out there usually need a bigger idle gap like .7-.8mm to have consistent idle through out the main (>30minutes) n prevent mistery flame..
#2214
I remember .7-.8mm is ideal, lower than that the lsn will be very lean. Just keep the hsn rich enough for straight.
Imo any engines out there usually need a bigger idle gap like .7-.8mm to have consistent idle through out the main (>30minutes) n prevent mistery flame..
Imo any engines out there usually need a bigger idle gap like .7-.8mm to have consistent idle through out the main (>30minutes) n prevent mistery flame..
Just have 5 more tanks to do before the engine is ready for race tuning and then hopefully it will thrust my snake into life on the straight. The 'Pinch' is really
strong on this model of GO Engine, so I added 2x.02 extra shims, to help reduce con-rod stress, after the 10th tank I will remove them and just keep the factory default of 1x.03 Allu and 1x.02 Copper for 25% Nitro.
Thanks again Jordan and apologies to other thread followers for interrupting this Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 thread.
#2215
So I am ok with the .8mm setting, thanks for the tip Jordan.
Just have 5 more tanks to do before the engine is ready for race tuning and then hopefully it will thrust my snake into life on the straight. The 'Pinch' is really
strong on this model of GO Engine, so I added 2x.02 extra shims, to help reduce con-rod stress, after the 10th tank I will remove them and just keep the factory default of 1x.03 Allu and 1x.02 Copper for 25% Nitro.
Thanks again Jordan and apologies to other thread followers for interrupting this Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 thread.
Just have 5 more tanks to do before the engine is ready for race tuning and then hopefully it will thrust my snake into life on the straight. The 'Pinch' is really
strong on this model of GO Engine, so I added 2x.02 extra shims, to help reduce con-rod stress, after the 10th tank I will remove them and just keep the factory default of 1x.03 Allu and 1x.02 Copper for 25% Nitro.
Thanks again Jordan and apologies to other thread followers for interrupting this Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 thread.
#2216
Google Mike truthe serpent 2.2 to view the picture of installation of new Ackerman. My LHS doesn't have it yet.
#2217
Serpent Improvements.
Mike Truhe has departed Serpent; but wow!!! Look who has replaced him......... Shin Adachi. http://www.neobuggy.net/
Now, with a colleague like Adachi working alongside Billy, Serpent is sure to produce something truly amazing in 2016.
Now, with a colleague like Adachi working alongside Billy, Serpent is sure to produce something truly amazing in 2016.
#2218
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
I am having a problem with my front shocks leaking. I just rebuilt all of the shocks with new orings, but it looks to me like the front shocks have started leaking again. I am not sure what else I could try to stop them from leaking. Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
#2219
I am having a problem with my front shocks leaking. I just rebuilt all of the shocks with new orings, but it looks to me like the front shocks have started leaking again. I am not sure what else I could try to stop them from leaking. Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
You don't need to ream the arms because the hinge pins rotate in the inserts. Opposite of all the other cars. That way they never get bound up.
#2220
Check the nylon cap (bottom) which tighten to the shock. Usually cracked after sometimes or over tighten The o-ring is good