Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 >

Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree13Likes

Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-03-2015, 06:01 AM
  #2206  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DaRaceMasta
whats been your experience with this ankerman.. worth getting? as i may well be picking my new 2.2 next week.
I was at a race and started with the new parts. Steering felt good and the track was rough. For my last qual i decided to change back over to the old to see what would happen. My car found bumps and ruts that i never thought were there, the steering was more nervous and I was crashing in places I didnt all weekend. For the main I changed back to the new system and was back to being dialed!
rxmeador is offline  
Old 12-03-2015, 09:52 AM
  #2207  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Next to Cologne, germany
Posts: 23
Default

@ Rxmeador
Thanks for your feedback

Can anyone make "before and after" images so that a distinction was to be seen during installation? I can imagine very difficult pictorially, especially with the Kevlar parts.


...
Originally Posted by Palebushman
You are very welcome Elektroman99
Thank you, I feel comfortable here and have already received some tips and aids. For a fat "thank you"

[...]

1) My Firefox browser always warns me the website is not certified!!
yes, that was with me, but ... ok did not stop me
2) There must be more Serpent model owners in the world, than just the ones
in that forum.
Absolutely correct, there must be hundreds if not thousands more ... but unfortunately there hardly anyone writes, rather none. OK ... is just so you can change it only slightly.
3) Maybe we all just prefer to be here in R/C Tech Forums, because it is the best 'Fountain Of Knowledge' in our sport anyway.

Then I try to support this knowledge pool, with my "limited" opportunities

[...]

Last edited by Elektroman99; 12-04-2015 at 04:04 AM.
Elektroman99 is offline  
Old 12-03-2015, 08:12 PM
  #2208  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 617
Default

Originally Posted by rxmeador
I was at a race and started with the new parts. Steering felt good and the track was rough. For my last qual i decided to change back over to the old to see what would happen. My car found bumps and ruts that i never thought were there, the steering was more nervous and I was crashing in places I didnt all weekend. For the main I changed back to the new system and was back to being dialed!
Thanks !
DaRaceMasta is offline  
Old 12-04-2015, 12:19 PM
  #2209  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 377
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default rear end

any chance someone could post a pic of which way the new rear uprights go on the 2.2 please
andy733 is offline  
Old 12-04-2015, 03:08 PM
  #2210  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 967
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

So I noticed that every set up I have seen for the 811 buggies has the front hubs in the high position. Is there a reason nobody uses the lower position? I always thought the lower hub position would give a little more off power steering, but in another thread I read it effects axle bind. If the high position has less axle bind I could see why everyone uses it, but then why even have the lower position?
IOP_Racer is offline  
Old 12-09-2015, 06:25 PM
  #2211  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
NoobRCDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 466
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

anyone have a pic of the new ackerman installed?
NoobRCDriver is offline  
Old 12-16-2015, 03:18 AM
  #2212  
Tech Regular
 
Palebushman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 397
Default

Originally Posted by cczjordan
I've been running cobra for 2 years, nothing wrong with the kit, as paco stated harder to do maintenance and the flanged braring won't last. That's all. Hope it helps
Hi cczjordan,

I notice your signature details are recently missing; but from your old posts I remembered you used to run GO engine and Novarossi rex.

Can you tell me how big you set your carburettor idle gap please?

I know there is very long thread on engine tuning here in RCTech, but I don't see any specific tips and tricks for GO Engines.

Recently I purchased a new GO GXII 5+2 port engine (No longer in production http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view.as...3&area=1&cat=1)
and I am still running it in, with carburettor idle set at .80mm.
There is no setting for this gap in the user manual piece of paper but I thought you may have a better suggestion. Thank you.


.

Last edited by Palebushman; 12-16-2015 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Added link for clarity :-)
Palebushman is offline  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:12 PM
  #2213  
Tech Master
 
cczjordan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Malaysia, Sabah
Posts: 1,042
Default

Originally Posted by Palebushman
Hi cczjordan,

I notice your signature details are recently missing; but from your old posts I remembered you used to run GO engine and Novarossi rex.

Can you tell me how big you set your carburettor idle gap please?

I know there is very long thread on engine tuning here in RCTech, but I don't see any specific tips and tricks for GO Engines.

Recently I purchased a new GO GXII 5+2 port engine (No longer in production http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view.as...3&area=1&cat=1)
and I am still running it in, with carburettor idle set at .80mm.
There is no setting for this gap in the user manual piece of paper but I thought you may have a better suggestion. Thank you.


.
I remember .7-.8mm is ideal, lower than that the lsn will be very lean. Just keep the hsn rich enough for straight.

Imo any engines out there usually need a bigger idle gap like .7-.8mm to have consistent idle through out the main (>30minutes) n prevent mistery flame..
cczjordan is offline  
Old 12-17-2015, 03:44 AM
  #2214  
Tech Regular
 
Palebushman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 397
Default

Originally Posted by cczjordan
I remember .7-.8mm is ideal, lower than that the lsn will be very lean. Just keep the hsn rich enough for straight.

Imo any engines out there usually need a bigger idle gap like .7-.8mm to have consistent idle through out the main (>30minutes) n prevent mistery flame..
So I am ok with the .8mm setting, thanks for the tip Jordan.
Just have 5 more tanks to do before the engine is ready for race tuning and then hopefully it will thrust my snake into life on the straight. The 'Pinch' is really
strong on this model of GO Engine, so I added 2x.02 extra shims, to help reduce con-rod stress, after the 10th tank I will remove them and just keep the factory default of 1x.03 Allu and 1x.02 Copper for 25% Nitro.

Thanks again Jordan and apologies to other thread followers for interrupting this Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 thread.


Palebushman is offline  
Old 12-17-2015, 05:48 PM
  #2215  
Tech Master
 
cczjordan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Malaysia, Sabah
Posts: 1,042
Default

Originally Posted by Palebushman
So I am ok with the .8mm setting, thanks for the tip Jordan.
Just have 5 more tanks to do before the engine is ready for race tuning and then hopefully it will thrust my snake into life on the straight. The 'Pinch' is really
strong on this model of GO Engine, so I added 2x.02 extra shims, to help reduce con-rod stress, after the 10th tank I will remove them and just keep the factory default of 1x.03 Allu and 1x.02 Copper for 25% Nitro.

Thanks again Jordan and apologies to other thread followers for interrupting this Serpent 811 Cobra Buggy 2.1 thread.


If u need that extra power with 25%, run .4mm head shim. Usually it takes 15-20tanks to make the pinch goes away
cczjordan is offline  
Old 12-19-2015, 04:53 AM
  #2216  
Tech Master
 
cczjordan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Malaysia, Sabah
Posts: 1,042
Default

Google Mike truthe serpent 2.2 to view the picture of installation of new Ackerman. My LHS doesn't have it yet.
cczjordan is offline  
Old 12-28-2015, 09:37 PM
  #2217  
Tech Regular
 
Palebushman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 397
Default Serpent Improvements.

Mike Truhe has departed Serpent; but wow!!! Look who has replaced him......... Shin Adachi. http://www.neobuggy.net/
Now, with a colleague like Adachi working alongside Billy, Serpent is sure to produce something truly amazing in 2016.



Palebushman is offline  
Old 12-31-2015, 11:48 AM
  #2218  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 967
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I am having a problem with my front shocks leaking. I just rebuilt all of the shocks with new orings, but it looks to me like the front shocks have started leaking again. I am not sure what else I could try to stop them from leaking. Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
IOP_Racer is offline  
Old 01-01-2016, 05:49 AM
  #2219  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by IOP_Racer
I am having a problem with my front shocks leaking. I just rebuilt all of the shocks with new orings, but it looks to me like the front shocks have started leaking again. I am not sure what else I could try to stop them from leaking. Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.
Sometimes the orings have some mold flashing on the inside and they don't seal well. Id check that first.

You don't need to ream the arms because the hinge pins rotate in the inserts. Opposite of all the other cars. That way they never get bound up.
rxmeador is offline  
Old 01-04-2016, 08:08 PM
  #2220  
Tech Master
 
cczjordan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Malaysia, Sabah
Posts: 1,042
Default

Originally Posted by rxmeador
Sometimes the orings have some mold flashing on the inside and they don't seal well. Id check that first.

You don't need to ream the arms because the hinge pins rotate in the inserts. Opposite of all the other cars. That way they never get bound up.
Check the nylon cap (bottom) which tighten to the shock. Usually cracked after sometimes or over tighten The o-ring is good
cczjordan is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.