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Old 04-20-2013, 08:12 AM
  #166  
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I'm running mine for the 1st time today. I plan on using some heat to relieve some pressure on the ROSS system until the engine loosens up some.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:02 AM
  #167  
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i also loosen the glow plug a quarter turn while i started it on break-in then snug it up after it starts...
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:14 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by jmoose1
Mine got delayed until monday cause of all the flooding around here. I am eagerly waiting.

I will share a couple thoughts to try and avoid ross problems. I do plan on trying to use a heat gun to pre heat the motor on the initial few tanks for brake in. I also plan on trying to have the motor at BTC(bottom dead center) when using the ross. I believe doing these couple things will help from gear stripping.

On my 8ight T with an o.s. 28, if I do not preheat the motor and try to start it cold, it will snap the belt on my 2.0 starter box. It happened twice during break in. Both motor have a lot of pinch up top when new. IMO it's no wonder why the plastic gears strip in the ross system.

I did order the 8ight fuel tank/stand, as well as the 3 shoe clutch as well based on previous posts.
I smell what you are steppin' in on the preheat.

Since there's a one-way bearing utilized with typical starting systems (pull start, spin start, and of ourselves the R.O.S.S.), finding BBC is difficult as if you pass it up, you will find ourself rotating the piston completely around a few revolutions anyway - sort of defeats the point.

Based on my experiences earlier this week, there wasn't much "pinch" before we attempted the initial phases with the ROSS system. With my AE/Reedy .21 engines, I am we'll aware of what pinch is suppose to feel like. Take it for what that means.

If you go the preheat route, you may want to consider removing the integrated black plastic heat sink protector that fits nicely on top of the heat sink. It's simply plastic I suspect it'd melt easily if hit with the direct heat from a heat gun. I know it is apparently designed to withstand the heat of operating temps... It's just a thought. Certainly replace it once all the preheating processes are completed.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:07 AM
  #169  
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you just hit it with the heat gun or hair dryer for a little while,if you melt the plastic head protector you are way over doing it...
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:52 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by beaven
you just hit it with the heat gun or hair dryer for a little while,if you melt the plastic head protector you are way over doing it...
Exactly. I don't even really heat the top of the head anyways. I usually put heat lower like around the base of the head and the crankcase area. Don't need much just 30 seconds or so on my milwaukee heat gun setting 1.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:52 PM
  #171  
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I used a Comp Heater no issues at all just takes a little longer. Engine is do small it heats up super fast.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:49 AM
  #172  
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What glow plug is in this engine. To lean and burned one up. Not every standard plug works with the car igniter plug.

Other than that this thing is insane. It handles awesome and hauls big time. Was a tough nightwith both cars. 2 new cars in the same night was a huge mistake.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:32 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by JoePit
What glow plug is in this engine. To lean and burned one up. Not every standard plug works with the car igniter plug.

Other than that this thing is insane. It handles awesome and hauls big time. Was a tough nightwith both cars. 2 new cars in the same night was a huge mistake.
I don't have one in front of me at the moment... However, you might try one like this: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...-Series/Detail

We blew one on GaMaWesKat's yesterday. I honestly don't think we ever hit a "Too Lean" condition and was actually surprised it blew at the time it did. Maybe a medium plug would be better as the element is a bit thicker, I think. Under inspection, the element was still shiny not white chalky at all. Simply looked like the middle section of the element was missing - so, not sure what caused that. Maybe he can post a photo of that along with the part number.

We too noticed the top of the plug must be small enough to allow the ROSS blue ignighter harness to fit over the top. Fortunately, we had a glow ignighter with us which worked quite well with the starter box. Without alignment pegs, I got pretty good with placement and tuned to a point where one quick bump and walla!

I suspect quick work with a dremmel (protecting the threads and element from filings of course) would give you some decent spares if you needed spares more readily available from your LHS.

Anyone else notice the lower/front brake linkage at the bearing pivot point arm rubbing on the top of the RX box? To me, I'd say maybe a few spacers under the pivot arm are needed. On my AE RC8.2 (sorry) , both Front and Rear brake arms are located on top of the arm. Thoughts?

I agree, these things kick butt when tuned. We were running pretty good paces and when the throttle was punched, it took off even faster with no hesitation.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:55 PM
  #174  
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I was running my t in the park today. After it stopped I pulled to start it. The pull start looked like it melted and snapped off. Anybody know why this would happen? I just bought the new pull yesterday. Kinda sucks 24 bucks down the drain.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:57 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by JoePit
What glow plug is in this engine. To lean and burned one up. Not every standard plug works with the car igniter plug.

Other than that this thing is insane. It handles awesome and hauls big time. Was a tough nightwith both cars. 2 new cars in the same night was a huge mistake.
Dynamite DYN2495

I got it from searching this thread
http://forum.losi.com/showthread.php?t=1817&page=1
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:59 PM
  #176  
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I'm thinking of going with a bump start next. Tries the Ross, pull hopefully bump will be better. Any recommendations on one.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:05 PM
  #177  
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how hot was your engine that you melted a pull start? ofna makes a good bump box,check out nitrohouse.com call them they are very helpful get the box for the nitro hyper ten 4x4 i use it on both trucks...
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:25 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by beaven
how hot was your engine that you melted a pull start? ofna makes a good bump box,check out nitrohouse.com call them they are very helpful get the box for the nitro hyper ten 4x4 i use it on both trucks...

I'm not sure, I don't have a temp reader. But the string melted and came off. I'm gonna link into that box. Ty
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:42 PM
  #179  
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Here is the pull string that melted and snapped.


Would this box work tlr99059 Ty.
Attached Thumbnails TLR TEN-SCT Nitro 4WD RTR-image.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:37 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by CRAZYDANTE23
Here is the pull string that melted and snapped.


Would this box work tlr99059 Ty.
Yeah, I suppose care would need to be taken to ensure the rope is away from the header/pipe - bummer. Maybe a longer piece of fuel line on the rope would help keep it away from the header/pipe. How about trying a new pull string. Any home center or hardware store should have replacement pull string.

The TLR 99059 looks promising and pretty sweet.



Team Losi Racing 8IGHT/8IGHT-T 2.0 Starter Box [TLR99059]

This ofna model looks a bit more compact and would help save money - OFNA 1/8 And 1/10 Off Road Starter Box [OFN10245] <--Click here!

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