LP2/D8 conversion thread!
 

Here it is! Post pics, share knowledge and win races! Lol. Keep the Hara thread clean! With more and more of us building these, conversion parts are now becoming available and the ease of this conversion is simplified!

Good idea!
 

This is sure to be interesting!?

Haha! If its not needed mods can surely delete.Here's a start of build list from the hara thread.

From Nick V.


First off, the Shock towers were cut by SNR Graphite in SoCal as far as team development goes Josh, Mike gonzo, and I believe Jesse were running these towers for the last 8 months or so on the Ve8 with great success. The rear geometry is between the 112mm and Truggy tower the middle hole is the same as the inner hole on the Truggy tower. Also the front tower is slightly wider and lower than stock plus you get 2 new camber positions on both towers.

you can purchase the towers direct from SNR graphite..

http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...products_id=89

http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...products_id=90


Last but not least, here is the complete list of parts you must purchase to build a D8/LP2 hybrid.

Rear parts
TKR20042 (Tekno RC rear 92.5mm axle set)
C8077-1
C8116
C8015
C8010-1
c8013

Front parts
c8017 (5x51mm turnbuckle as a camber link)
C8010-1
C8116
c8011-1
c8119
c8078
c8081 or c8081-1
c8014
c8013
c8005-1
C8134
HBS67174 (92mm WCE axles)
8x16 bearings (4 pieces)

Good Luck!..

Hey ROSCOE quick question
 

My car is more of a mongrel...I use K arms and hubs and suspension carriers!

Am I allowed to list/show my stuff LOL!!

Haha! Would you post up your K parts list for the guys going that route?

Looking at running the SNR towers with the stock arms (trying to find some apache arms) I know you have to add a third hole on the arm for the bottom location (Rear), my question is what is done to the front? Do you add a third hole there too?

I have the towers coming and want to get my parts ready.

SNR with apache
 

Order the arms off of EBAY! the seller had them to me in two days!!
With the SNR use inside hole on Tower and outside on arm. Remember to dremel under the droop screw for more droop. The droop screw that came with my arm is very cool it was basically a button head screw with a hex relief in the threaded area. (this allows way more surface area to contact the droop plate on the chassis - to reduce wear)

Most set ups for the front shock spring are grey (bumby) or white outdoor (smoother) and blue indoor (smooth high bite)- no third hole needed on arm in my opinion. Pistons I run are 1.3 x 8 (oil varies)

When using Kyosho (ugg) parts lol!!
 

Front End
SNR Tower - www.snrgraphite.com
Tekno M8 Drive Shaft - TTR20042
4 4x12mm cap head screws - HPI94530
Front Arm - KYOIF233
Knuckle Arm Collars KYOIF7
Steering Knuckles KHZ-KP-355 (King Heads machined alloy)
20 Degree Carrier - KYOIF304B
22 Degree Carrier - KYOIF305B

K Factory Hinge Pin Set (brutally tough) - RCEK8034
Shim Set (to shim the play in the front and rear arms) - TTRPD2430 (x2)

SNR Rear Tower
Rear Arms - KYOIF234B
Plastic Suspension Holder Set - KYOIF124B
Rear (front) Suspension holder set 1-2-3 degrees antisquat - KHZ-KP-090
Rear Hubs (optional) HBS67214

Remember as well to order 4 8x16x5mm beaings.
Also kyosho makes an awesome shim set (inside diameter 8mm) to take the play out of the whel hubs...they come in .1 .2 and .3 mm thicknesses - I strongly reccomend these.

As well order D8T shock ends (to lengthen shocks - optional) and wheel hubs (wider for rear - optional)

One last thing...
 

I have found in the rear that the standard drive shaft will work okay but I run Tekno on all fours - just sayin...

i tried the standard in the rear on mine, it popped out several times, even with my droop rather limited.

On the Kyosho conversion what hinge pin mounts do you use?

i used these on mine. its for a 7.5

KHZ-KP-090 King Headz Kyosho MP7.5 Rear Arm Mount Set (1, 2, 3 degree)
PRO7510 Racers Edge 7.5 Rear Arm Mount set 1,2,3 degree(toe blocks)

with LP2 arms, the stock rears axles will popout on the up stroke not of the down stroke/droop! To see for yourself, with the car on a table align the rear diff outdrive slots vertical/up & down and fully compress the rear arms you'll see the axle pop out.

M2c
 

Just buy the m2c new toe block for the lp2 and Axels popping out are eliminated!!!

The only way the m2c parts can eliminate the popping out is to change the rear end geometry by narrowing the distance from the inner hinge pins (less track width) or by running almost no rear toe. Both scenarios would change the way the car was intended to drive with the stock LP2 hingepin mounts (effecting rear roll center). Trust me, I've sent the last 4-5 months playing around with a lot different parts both from HB and kyosho just to see what would work best, and at this point I've given up on the project (due to the lack of HB spares) and is going to wait for HB to release a final design whatever it may be.

Take care and feel free to drop me a message if you guys need any help.