Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
New Caster Racing Nitro Buggy Development >

New Caster Racing Nitro Buggy Development

New Caster Racing Nitro Buggy Development

Old 05-06-2012, 08:19 PM
  #1  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
rcboy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 3,715
Default New Caster Racing Nitro Buggy Development

Hey guys. For those of you who have never visited the Caster racing forums, we also have a thread like this there.

So, We have some ideas about improving our current alcohol fueled buggy, but I would like to know what you guys, the citizens of rctech.net, would like to see in an ideal nitro buggy. For those of you who have not seen our current buggy, here it is: http://casterracingusa.com/product.p...&cat=60&page=1
These are actually pretty old pictures, but the general condition of the buggy is pretty much the same (and yes, the new car has threaded shocks). So, what do you all want? this is your chance to make some input about you want, and be able to work out any shortcomings THE "IDEAL BUGGY"----ZX2R-----

Last edited by rcboy1; 05-07-2012 at 03:01 PM.
rcboy1 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 01:29 AM
  #2  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
speedy2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,890
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

battery positionned forward
normal bearings all around
alu cnc towers
nice design
captured driveshafts or homokinetic shafts
multi position enginemount standard

Last edited by speedy2; 05-07-2012 at 04:08 PM.
speedy2 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 05:57 AM
  #3  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
MadRussian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 2,378
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Your 100% own design, not a copy of the MBX5.
MadRussian is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:02 AM
  #4  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,465
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

My buggy is in the process of being built. The kit for 2012 is impressive, very solid and nice kit.

I think in the beginning the car was from an MBX5 but it has evolved into it's own car.

Pictures coming soon!
David Alberico is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:00 AM
  #5  
Tech Elite
 
Zerodefect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 4,814
Default

-add rings to capture the CVD pins, no set screws
-rubber cvd boots
-lose the Al servo tray and diff cover, use plastic or carbon
-vented shock caps with foam and thick bladders
-16mm bore shocks w/1.2x8, 1.3x8, and 1.1x10 tapered pistons
-as much suspension travel as AE, Kyosho, etc. Copy the MBX6r but add a little more travel/droop, it's worked fine so far
-Kyosho progressive blue springs
-forward weight bias
-battery box up front
-adjustable arm front and rear wheel base (ala Xray)
-Losi styled wing
-cab forward body for down force, noone has tried adding winglets up front, might be something to look into. Go crazy on the body, nothing pretty, make something aero and ugly that stands out, don't even bother with windows
-130cc tank with bolt in things to reduce capacity, that way I can remove them and cheat (not very nice, but it'll sell)
-carbon shock towers
-two rear body mounts, if the body offers enough DF, two in the front as well.

-name the car the "Fleetwood Edition", and send one my way for testing.

Last edited by Zerodefect; 05-07-2012 at 10:22 AM.
Zerodefect is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:24 AM
  #6  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 4,524
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Default

what I would like to see on my "dream buggy"

1)"clunk" type fuel tank
2)battery forward radio tray
3)simple throttle/brake linkages, IMHO less is more when it comes to this area. The durango, losi Gen III and serpent car leaves to much room for linkages to break, vibrate loose, or wear out.
4)3.5mm and 4mm hardware throughout. I hate having stripped 3mm hardware
5) 8x16mm minimum size hub bearings
6) axle and center CVA cross pin captured by hub/diff case bearings. (nothing worst then having a cross pin flying out mid race.)
7) rigid quick change engine mounts like the HB or king headz units.
8) recessed rear chassis skid plate like the agama buggy
9) ability to remove center diff without removing brake assembly
10) "quick disconnect" throttle/brake linkage without having to remove servo horn from throttle servo which should allow for easy removal/reassemble of battery tray without having to re-center throttle servo.
11) insertable carbide plates as chassis stiffeners/weights which can be placed anywhere on the chassis
12) optional long arm/short hingepin mount and short arm/long hingepin mounts both front and rear.
13) C-hub design front end. IMHO cars with the kingpin axis behind the outer hingepin axis(Rc8,MP9 or any other C-hub based car) seem to have better steer-in verses pillow ball or "losi type" spindles where king pin axis is inline or in front of the outer hinge pin axis.
14) bearing guided sway bars to eliminate sway bar "deadband/slop" when the car changes direction.
15)ability to move the engine and center diff forward or back like the JQ car.
16) captured hingepins with adjustable toe,caster, antisquat ""pill inserts" like the RC8
17) losi style bellcrank - ackerman drag link
18) make the car under 3200g fully race ready and allow the user to selectively place carbide weight anywhere on the chassis.
nv529 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:51 AM
  #7  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 127 (100%+)
Default

.

Last edited by ROSCOE; 05-07-2012 at 10:55 AM. Reason: Misread
ROSCOE is online now  
Old 05-07-2012, 11:13 AM
  #8  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,465
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Some points I have really liked so far

- Part fitment, no dremelling or shimming needed
- The quaility of the aluminum is top notch
- diff/gear shimming is spot on
- comes with aluminum clutch shoes, similar to the dynamite ones
- LArge clutch bell bearings
David Alberico is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 02:59 PM
  #9  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
rcboy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 3,715
Default

Originally Posted by MadRussian View Post
Your 100% own design, not a copy of the MBX5.
It is NOT a copy of the Mugen. True, they both share the pivot ball setup, but with that logic the Associated and Kyosho both use c-hubs so are copies in that parts. Also true, the nitro buggy shares a more conventional buggy chassis layout, but it is not copied.

Keep putting them out guys, there are some great ideas.
rcboy1 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 03:47 PM
  #10  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
railer80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 267
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nv529 View Post
what I would like to see on my "dream buggy"

1)"clunk" type fuel tank
2)battery forward radio tray
3)simple throttle/brake linkages, IMHO less is more when it comes to this area. The durango, losi Gen III and serpent car leaves to much room for linkages to break, vibrate loose, or wear out.
4)3.5mm and 4mm hardware throughout. I hate having stripped 3mm hardware
5) 8x16mm minimum size hub bearings
6) axle and center CVA cross pin captured by hub/diff case bearings. (nothing worst then having a cross pin flying out mid race.)
7) rigid quick change engine mounts like the HB or king headz units.
8) recessed rear chassis skid plate like the agama buggy
9) ability to remove center diff without removing brake assembly
10) "quick disconnect" throttle/brake linkage without having to remove servo horn from throttle servo which should allow for easy removal/reassemble of battery tray without having to re-center throttle servo.
11) insertable carbide plates as chassis stiffeners/weights which can be placed anywhere on the chassis
12) optional long arm/short hingepin mount and short arm/long hingepin mounts both front and rear.
13) C-hub design front end. IMHO cars with the kingpin axis behind the outer hingepin axis(Rc8,MP9 or any other C-hub based car) seem to have better steer-in verses pillow ball or "losi type" spindles where king pin axis is inline or in front of the outer hinge pin axis.
14) bearing guided sway bars to eliminate sway bar "deadband/slop" when the car changes direction.
15)ability to move the engine and center diff forward or back like the JQ car.
16) captured hingepins with adjustable toe,caster, antisquat ""pill inserts" like the RC8
17) losi style bellcrank - ackerman drag link
18) make the car under 3200g fully race ready and allow the user to selectively place carbide weight anywhere on the chassis.
So build a car that steals everyone's ideas and designs? Lol
railer80 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 05:04 PM
  #11  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 4,524
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by railer80 View Post
So build a car that steals everyone's ideas and designs? Lol
every car on the market uses designs from the competition. Just sayin'
nv529 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 05:58 PM
  #12  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
rcboy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 3,715
Default

Originally Posted by nv529 View Post
every car on the market uses designs from the competition. Just sayin'
True. But, we would like to innovate some of our own ideas. I do believe we were the first with the dual battery setup in the e version, but this is the nitro thread. So, we will most likely be keeping the pivot ball setup. There is a little room to lighten up the drivetrain though. I was thinking maybe design diffs with smaller internals? or just smaller diffs? I'm not sure what effect that would have on durability though.
rcboy1 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 06:13 PM
  #13  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 534
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Mount the motor in the right front, facing backwards.
Fuel tank in the back right.
Both servos mounted front left (kinda losi 3.0 style)
then batt/rec behind those.
RePeTe is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 06:29 PM
  #14  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
rcboy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 3,715
Default

Originally Posted by RePeTe View Post
Mount the motor in the right front, facing backwards.
Fuel tank in the back right.
Both servos mounted front left (kinda losi 3.0 style)
then batt/rec behind those.
I have had the same idea as you about mounting the engine backwards, but unfortunately that would require some very extensive testing on exhaust pipes since the stinger would now be facing backwards (Not a good idea).
rcboy1 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 06:54 PM
  #15  
Tech Elite
 
Zerodefect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 4,814
Default

Originally Posted by RePeTe View Post
Mount the motor in the right front, facing backwards.
Fuel tank in the back right.
Both servos mounted front left (kinda losi 3.0 style)
then batt/rec behind those.
I didn't mean put the weight THAT far forward.
Zerodefect is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.