Nitro Cleaner Alternatives
 

Anyone got any recommendations on alternatives to Nitro Cleaner? I usually use this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWGA5&P=ML but I cant get a hold of any locally. Was going to Autozone today anyway, figured they probably had something that is very similar that will work just fine.

We are using brake disc cleaner

In spray bottle mix 1/3rd water, 1/3rd simple green, and 1/3rd denatured alcohol it works like wonders and is dirt cheap to make..

I usually use SG to do the heavy clean up. For light duty stuff, I use Wal-Mart's Super Tech brake cleaner, mostly 'cause it's cheaper than anywhere else.
The most important thing when looking at brake cleaners, make sure it is Non Chlorinated.

For diff rebuilds, I have found that nothing beats Naptha and a tea dunker!

I've also been experimenting with a dry film lube called RZ-50. It does seem to help clean up but the big thing I've felt is that no matter how dirty n crusty my rig is, the suspension remains bind and squeak free :)

http://www.rz-50.com/

Why the denatured alcohol? I usually go 1/2 water, 1/2 simple green. Thanks.

denatured alcohol helps as a heavy degeaser when the simple green isn't strong enough..

I remove my engine and radio tray. Then hose it down with Simple Green and water.

Non-clorinated Brake Clean works well to get all the grease off the rotors and tight spots that need blasted. Electroclean is good as well. (Don't hose electronics with Electroclean, motors are ok.)

+1

This is how my car gets cleaned after every practice or race day. Have a air compressor handy as letting the water dry on might not be the best thing. Clean radio tray with damp rag and spray motor with brake clean. Little bit of prep and shine and you have a new ride :)

Some people are concerned about bearing rust with my garden hose method, but my bearings are packed full of synth auto grease until it's oozing out of them. Everything is coated outside and inside, no water really gets in. And I repack/replace my bearings every time I pull them to swap lube anyways.

By the time rust takes hold, those parts are 10 times worn out from racing. If you maintain the car it's no problem.

+1. I've been doing it this way for 4 years and no issues. I pay particular attention to bearings, but since I use 1$ specials, it's no big deal to change them out.

Icing on the cake is Kal-gard Prep and Shine - makes it look brand new.