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Brand new aluminum servo arm stripped?!

Brand new aluminum servo arm stripped?!

Old 03-21-2012, 10:12 PM
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Angry Brand new aluminum servo arm stripped?!

Today I went up to Tower Hobbies to upgrade my steering setup after my plastic arm broke. The guy at the counter gave me a "Hanger 9" brand aluminum arm for my JR Sport high torque servo, he said it should work. The packaging on the arm said it was for JR, so I figured it would work too. So I get home and put the thing on, and I steer left and right. It works fine for a couple of seconds and then it starts slipping. After a little investigating,I realized that the "teeth" in the aluminum arm were stripped. Now, what could cause that to happen? I was only steering it when it just set on the ground, and held up in the air. Any help?
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo0m UR DEAD View Post
Today I went up to Tower Hobbies to upgrade my steering setup after my plastic arm broke. The guy at the counter gave me a "Hanger 9" brand aluminum arm for my JR Sport high torque servo, he said it should work. The packaging on the arm said it was for JR, so I figured it would work too. So I get home and put the thing on, and I steer left and right. It works fine for a couple of seconds and then it starts slipping. After a little investigating,I realized that the "teeth" in the aluminum arm were stripped. Now, what could cause that to happen? I was only steering it when it just set on the ground, and held up in the air. Any help?
take it back, a few guys i know have had problems with jr servo horns actually fitting jr servos
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:18 PM
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Your end points are probably the first place to look. When you replace the horn (again), dial the end point down in your radio (usually labeled EPA) to about 80%. Turn on the car (with everything reinstalled) and turn full right. If the servo is straining (you'll hear it buzzing louder than normal), it still has to much throw so dial it back until the louder than normal buzz goes away. If it isnt, dial in some + EPA until you reach full lock in that direction. Do the same for the other side. Really high torque servos have enough power to break parts, usually the horn is the weakest link if the servo saver is locked down.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:23 PM
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Ok I`ll try that, now that I think of it, I do think my epa is at 100%. Do you guys know of any good arms that are relatively cheap, I don`t want to spend 20 bucks on a fancy shmancy one, lol
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo0m UR DEAD View Post
Ok I`ll try that, now that I think of it, I do think my epa is at 100%. Do you guys know of any good arms that are relatively cheap, I don`t want to spend 20 bucks on a fancy shmancy one, lol
I like the racers edge one. I've been using the same one for around 3 years. I think it cost about $12.00 or so. If you buy cheap that's what you get my friend. IMHO cheap is not the way to go in this hobby. Buy good quality stuff.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by J.Sears View Post
I like the racers edge one. I've been using the same one for around 3 years. I think it cost about $12.00 or so. If you buy cheap that's what you get my friend. IMHO cheap is not the way to go in this hobby. Buy good quality stuff.
I just picked up the Racers Edge pro version and really like them and for the price, it's cheap insurance.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
I just picked up the Racers Edge pro version and really like them and for the price, it's cheap insurance.
Yeah that's the one I've got, the pro version. Great servo horn! I looked it up on Amain and its $10.99.
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