New Truggy
09-13-2011, 10:42 PM
#31
Here is a guy on YouTube that can help you with a lot of questions and you can actually see what he's doing so you know exactly how to do it. He is really helpful if you're someone who is just beginning. Hope you get it all figured out quick so you can get out and start racing. It's a great feeling and you'll meet a lot of great helpful people. If you have a Rc track anywhere close to most people will help you with any questions you have. The guys name is Squirrelod on YouTube. Just use that name to search for his channel on there.
Thanks! Yah he knows his stuff. Learning more and more. Ill definitely be doing some tuning when I get this puppy put back together.
09-17-2011, 05:22 PM
#32
Engine Maitenence is verry important.
1.after you have finished running set your piston at bottom dead center of the stroke I mark my flywheel with a permanent marker so I know where it is easily.
This ensures your piston and sleeve cool back to their origional size and will give your motor alot more life.
2.After run oil Is a must also even if just storing for the week I disconnect my fuel line from the engine and also blow through the exaust line to expell all the fule from the lines.
then open the glowplug inlet and put a good 7-10 drops of after run oil into the engine..
the nitro fule if left in your lines and motor will create rust in the interals of te engine so its best on the lastrun of the day to run the engine dry and then do the ARO..
Im sur others will chime in with more info.
1.after you have finished running set your piston at bottom dead center of the stroke I mark my flywheel with a permanent marker so I know where it is easily.
This ensures your piston and sleeve cool back to their origional size and will give your motor alot more life.
2.After run oil Is a must also even if just storing for the week I disconnect my fuel line from the engine and also blow through the exaust line to expell all the fule from the lines.
then open the glowplug inlet and put a good 7-10 drops of after run oil into the engine..
the nitro fule if left in your lines and motor will create rust in the interals of te engine so its best on the lastrun of the day to run the engine dry and then do the ARO..
Im sur others will chime in with more info.
09-17-2011, 06:15 PM
#33
FYI, I have been racing actively for quite a few years, and after run oil is not a must. I have never had an engine rust internally and in fact, most fuels have enough oil in them to keep the engine well lubricated. Furthermore, if you have silicon filled crankshafts, after run oil will degrade the silicon and eventually cause issues. After run is also not good for glow plugs so if you fire your engine up without blowing it out, you might as well have a new plug in hand.
You have some good points But I live in a coastal area and I have seen engines with fule left in them rust internals in just a week (mostly from salt air Im guessing).
So I make it a point to use ARO at all times and i cant hurt anything especially if you read the bottle and check that is fine with silicon.
Your intitled to your opinion as much as I am and I would promote after run oil in any condition Its better to be safe than sorry.
As to finding bottom dead center the easiest way is to remove your glow plug look down into the burn room/Glow hole and move the flywheel with your finger and you will see the piston moving up and down.
when the piston is at the verry bottom of the stroke Make a mark on the flywheel so you can locate BDC.....
09-19-2011, 10:41 AM
#34
Tech Initiate
Well, I tend to agree that after run oil is not really a necessity. I have had my Losi Ten T for a few months now and have 4+ gallons through it and have never used after run oil and am on the original glow plug. I just clean her up after a dirty run with denatured alcohol, clean and oil the air filter and that's it. I make sure that I run her out of nitro after every run though so the tank is completely dry and no fuel remains in the fuel lines. I also check for loose screws and stuff before I run her again. I haven't broken a thing yet. The Ten T is the best nitro RC vehicle I have ever owned (this is my 6th).
09-20-2011, 10:46 PM
#35
I want to upgrade the steering servo.
any recommendations?
any recommendations?
09-20-2011, 11:46 PM
#37
09-21-2011, 12:09 AM
#38
Also,
what do i need to look at compatibility wise before buying new servos?
what do i need to look at compatibility wise before buying new servos?
09-21-2011, 04:12 AM
#39
its a std size servo for a truggy or buggy, heaps of good ones out there...you want at least 10kg and with a speed of 0.15 seconds or less.
most good ones are 0.1 seconds and 15kg... there are high voltage servos that can be run with 7.4 volt lipo 2 cells but would not be nessecery for your truggy...the spline count were you fit the servo horn varies with some brands so to run your std horns buy something with the same number spline, most servo come wth the correct one.
most good ones are 0.1 seconds and 15kg... there are high voltage servos that can be run with 7.4 volt lipo 2 cells but would not be nessecery for your truggy...the spline count were you fit the servo horn varies with some brands so to run your std horns buy something with the same number spline, most servo come wth the correct one.
09-21-2011, 08:34 PM
#40
its a std size servo for a truggy or buggy, heaps of good ones out there...you want at least 10kg and with a speed of 0.15 seconds or less.
most good ones are 0.1 seconds and 15kg... there are high voltage servos that can be run with 7.4 volt lipo 2 cells but would not be nessecery for your truggy...the spline count were you fit the servo horn varies with some brands so to run your std horns buy something with the same number spline, most servo come wth the correct one.
most good ones are 0.1 seconds and 15kg... there are high voltage servos that can be run with 7.4 volt lipo 2 cells but would not be nessecery for your truggy...the spline count were you fit the servo horn varies with some brands so to run your std horns buy something with the same number spline, most servo come wth the correct one.
.1 seconds what?
15kg what?
when referring to the spline on the servo I'm confused.
09-21-2011, 08:39 PM
#41
09-21-2011, 09:02 PM
#42
15kg for example is how much grunt and holding power the servo has, a cheap1/10th servo could be as little as 6kg so the stress of braking and steering will kill it, usually the really strong ones are not so fast and vise-versa, its how they gear them... you can pay the big buck to get both.
The spline is the piece that sticks out of the servo were you mount the steering or throttle horn, it will have a pattern cut into it with a certin number of teeth say 31...if your sero horn is a 30 or 32 cut it will not fit.
hey mate everyone was a newbie at some stage, so unless you ask really stupid questions you will get the info you need.
The spline is the piece that sticks out of the servo were you mount the steering or throttle horn, it will have a pattern cut into it with a certin number of teeth say 31...if your sero horn is a 30 or 32 cut it will not fit.
hey mate everyone was a newbie at some stage, so unless you ask really stupid questions you will get the info you need.
Last edited by curacing2; 09-21-2011 at 09:13 PM.
09-21-2011, 09:07 PM
#44
09-21-2011, 09:15 PM
#45
must be easy to cheat at school with the high tech mobiles around these days.