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Old 08-03-2011, 06:53 AM   #16
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I would have thought first thing to try is pliers?
Then heat with soldering iron on screw, with pliers.

Then cutting a slot in it
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:02 PM   #17
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yup its pretty much like powdered metal shaving most of the time it works, if all else fails then revert to the dremeling, having several options before hand is better then "we be fuc***" afterwards and scratching your head.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:23 PM   #18
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After you got it out, try to fit a head cap screw. This allows you to use a bigger hex (usually 2.5mm instead of 2.0mm) and you can use pliers if the screw is stuck. I think I'll also do that from now on.

And if the cap head screw is close to the tank, glue a little piece of metal onto the tank.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:49 PM   #19
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This is funny, Try this and Try that.

15 seconds with a dremel. A tool all RC hobbiest should have.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:36 PM   #20
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Default Well I am going to get off but after points race Saturday!

I will dremel slot and remove this weekend but I want to run race first my shoes are good I has just trying to clean front bearing and scuff my bell (HAHA) but since I stripped screw I will run race first due to my luck and finup something I can't fix now. Does leaky front bearing usually mean the bearing going bad the motor is old(6 gallons jx.21) but runs good but does have two stage idle and lately it has dropped more and had to adjust to correct idle. Also I have already shoe gooed a piece of thick lexan to tank. Thanks for all the info/help!
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:02 PM   #21
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For most stripped screws I use center punch. Harbor Freight has em pretty cheap.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by token View Post
This is funny, Try this and Try that.

15 seconds with a dremel. A tool all RC hobbiest should have.
Plus 1......dremel a slot & its done. I even keep using the slotted screws on the Losi clutch bells. They last longer than the hex head.
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