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Old 01-19-2014, 11:09 PM
  #8746  
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Which ones? The front and rear are the same. The center front is the same but the center rear is longer. Personally I've been running the rtr dogbones in the center as the rate of wear and needed service is far less than the center cvds. A worn dogbone won't cost you a race like a broken cvd will.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:16 AM
  #8747  
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f/r and front centre are the same. rear centre is longer.
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:58 AM
  #8748  
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Anyone try kyosho shock standoffs? I was gonna try them. To bring the shocks closer to towers. Anyone tried this?
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:22 PM
  #8749  
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http://blog.jconcepts.net/2014/01/4t...am/#more-90158
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:03 AM
  #8750  
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Good job Blake!!
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:47 PM
  #8751  
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Just bought a .2 and everyone I have talked to say they handle like a brick. Any setup tips? I am a tlr guy and wanted to try this kit out before AE comes out with the new one. What upgrades are yall running? Im looking into the kyosho shocks f/r and carbon fiber towers to loose some weight. Thanks
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:09 PM
  #8752  
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Originally Posted by thercpr0
Just bought a .2 and everyone I have talked to say they handle like a brick. Any setup tips? I am a tlr guy and wanted to try this kit out before AE comes out with the new one. What upgrades are yall running? Im looking into the kyosho shocks f/r and carbon fiber towers to loose some weight. Thanks
Kyosho Light Blue Springs
8 hole 1.3mm pistons
Kyosho shock bladders

Don't use the rubber boots on the center drive cups... Use the old rc8b metal clamps to hold the pin in place...

Factory team aluminum rear hubs... removes a lot of slop.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:45 PM
  #8753  
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Originally Posted by E1 Diablo
Kyosho Light Blue Springs
8 hole 1.3mm pistons
Kyosho shock bladders

Don't use the rubber boots on the center drive cups... Use the old rc8b metal clamps to hold the pin in place...

Factory team aluminum rear hubs... removes a lot of slop.
Why the metal clamps on the center drive cups?
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:08 PM
  #8754  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
Why the metal clamps on the center drive cups?
Inevitably debris will get in the drive train, catch the rubber boot and retainer and dislodge them.
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:27 PM
  #8755  
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And I'd get the brake discs and pads off a Mugen... mbx7, mbx6 or something else. The stock brake discs wear out really quick and will feel lumpy...
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:09 PM
  #8756  
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Do they last longer if you seal the inside edge with CA?
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:29 AM
  #8757  
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Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
Do they last longer if you seal the inside edge with CA?
Never tried that. When I needed to replace the brake discs for the third time on my 8.2 I found it cheaper to just buy the mbx7 brake setup off a parted-out buggy kit from eBay.

AE will get the brake package right with the 8.3.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:30 PM
  #8758  
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want a pic of the new 8.3? or one very close to it... Look on Neobuggy there is a pic of the new LRP buggy. The last buggy they has was a chip off the old block from RC8.2. I am sure this is the same but cheaper build.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:47 PM
  #8759  
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Front bumper from ThunderTiger, cheap look front c-hubs.. Hope real 8.tki3 gonna be better
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:50 AM
  #8760  
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The LRP buggy is hardly news, there have been numerous pics of it in testing and pre-sale publicity dating back to last summer.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/news/news/news/?tx_ttnews[tt_news]=7083&cHash=3fcda6c07f7116bb69cd22cee1fc02f7

I'd be pretty sharply disappointed if Associated tried to feed us a warmed-over LRP buggy.
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