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Old 05-14-2013, 01:37 PM
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I couldn't find a dedicated RC8T thread, so I figured my best bet was to ask here.

1. Are RC8(.2) parts backwards compatible with RC8T? The arms are obviously not, but the rest looks pretty similar?
2. I assume that RC8.2 is basically RC8 with AE upgrades. It would stand to reason that some or all of those upgrades could be installed on RC8T as well. Which would you recommend the most
3. Any spares in particular I should stock up on that are prone to breaking? Mind you, I won't be racing my RC8T, but rather bashing it on 6S.

Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
here is a pioc of how I have mine at the moment
You need to go down 1 hole on the inner camber link, and switch around your hub towers to the opposite direction, they're in the longer position. Then, put them in the inside upper hole. This should give you more rear traction on lower bite conditions. I run on a low/medium bite track that has a dusty top and I run these locations.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ignis View Post
I couldn't find a dedicated RC8T thread, so I figured my best bet was to ask here.

1. Are RC8(.2) parts backwards compatible with RC8T? The arms are obviously not, but the rest looks pretty similar?
2. I assume that RC8.2 is basically RC8 with AE upgrades. It would stand to reason that some or all of those upgrades could be installed on RC8T as well. Which would you recommend the most
3. Any spares in particular I should stock up on that are prone to breaking? Mind you, I won't be racing my RC8T, but rather bashing it on 6S.

Thanks.
You mean this one.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...-tips-282.html
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
should I move my camber link down in tower and in towards tower on hub for loose conditions?
Go down on the hub. Leave the tower untouched.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:09 PM
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Looking at the newer setups, it looks like the drivers are not running the ghea lrc plates anymore? Did they discover somthing i missied over the winter? Are people still running lrc in the rear?
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:59 PM
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I never did run it, I've just been running the Avid -1mm 3* pills in the D plate.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd View Post
I never did run it, I've just been running the Avid -1mm 3* pills in the D plate.
That achieves the same object though doesn't it. Right now I'm running 2up in c plate 2 down in d plate. With ghea lrc plates. Seem to loose. And I have never liked the 0 hole. What would be a good starting point to work off of with the ghea plates?
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:22 AM
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In both my cars I run 2 down in the C, and the Avid -1mm 2 dot pill (4* rear toe). Works great for low bite, dusty conditions.

On high bite tracks I will go to the 1 dot in the D plate.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtdog View Post
That achieves the same object though doesn't it. Right now I'm running 2up in c plate 2 down in d plate. With ghea lrc plates. Seem to loose. And I have never liked the 0 hole. What would be a good starting point to work off of with the ghea plates?
But the ghea gives you a lower roll center 2mm
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:12 AM
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Doubled

Last edited by carpet Carlos; 05-15-2013 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ignis View Post
I couldn't find a dedicated RC8T thread, so I figured my best bet was to ask here.

1. Are RC8(.2) parts backwards compatible with RC8T? The arms are obviously not, but the rest looks pretty similar?
2. I assume that RC8.2 is basically RC8 with AE upgrades. It would stand to reason that some or all of those upgrades could be installed on RC8T as well. Which would you recommend the most
3. Any spares in particular I should stock up on that are prone to breaking? Mind you, I won't be racing my RC8T, but rather bashing it on 6S.

Thanks.
Since the new chassis is +3mm in the rear all of the upgrades will work that are not related to the arms. The shock towers would not work since they are designed for the new arm position. Not sure that the rest is much different through.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyler Keel View Post
In both my cars I run 2 down in the C, and the Avid -1mm 2 dot pill (4* rear toe). Works great for low bite, dusty conditions.

On high bite tracks I will go to the 1 dot in the D plate.
So you run the factory c plate?
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtdog View Post
So you run the factory c plate?
Yes, I have never tried any of the GHEA plates.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:38 PM
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I run the avid 1 dot in the d plate too. I think maifield only ran that ghea plate at nats. They're all back on the stock plates now. Which is fine with me I'm done with the disco parts.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:16 PM
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Looking for a set up to start with for a mid grip track that has allot of blown out spots. I will be geting the avid pils and 1.3 x8 pistons and have the zero hole mod and front turnbuckle mod. Just need a good set up to start with have be out of racing for 2 years just need some help thanks
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