SWorkz S 350BK
05-14-2012, 08:51 AM
#1831
I was able to run my car with the 4mm AE shock shafts yesterday to check out how they worked and so far so good. The track had a super gnarly ski jump to whoop section and another set of rhythm whoops and the car was dialed through both sections. Can't wait for this weekend!
Again, I only did this because I got the idea in my head and wanted to see if I could make it work. I have only been through one front and one rear shock shaft in nearly 6 months of driving, but I love to mess with stuff and try new parts. I will do a step by step here in the next couple of days for those of you who are interested in trying the shafts out.
Again, I only did this because I got the idea in my head and wanted to see if I could make it work. I have only been through one front and one rear shock shaft in nearly 6 months of driving, but I love to mess with stuff and try new parts. I will do a step by step here in the next couple of days for those of you who are interested in trying the shafts out.
05-14-2012, 07:23 PM
#1832
Here is a step by step for anyone thinking about trying to fit the AE shafts in the Sworkz shocks. It is somewhat of a trial and error project, but if you have the patience it works out very nicely.
Associated Part #'s you will need:
-ASC89352
-ASC89554 x 2
-ASC89555 x 2
Sworkz Part #'s it is a good idea to have:
-SWX-330095
1. First off, disassemble the shocks. I like to keep one stock shock assembled so I can get the feel of the modified shock and the stock shock very similar if not exactly the same. I make sure to pay attention to the amount of stiction the modified shock has as the shaft passes through the o-rings, but more on that in a minute.
2. Take out the orings and plastic shock parts and set them aside. The only thing you will reuse is the lower plastic shock bushing.
3. Use a rotary tool on a medium speed to enlarge the hole on the lower shock bushing to fit the 4mm AE shaft. I use the green tapered bit and it works very well. You want a slight bit of play from the bushing to the shaft. Use your stock parts and compare the fit to the modified setup at this stage to make sure you are on the right track. Too much play is as bad as not enough.
4. This is the 16mm Associated shock rebuild kit that comes with the o-rings and black spacers you will use in the bottom cartridge of the Sworkz shocks.
5. Here are the parts you will use from the Associated rebuild kit. The black spacer will go between the two o-rings and may possibly need to be sanded down slightly. Mine all needed sanding, yours may or may not. The easiest way to tell is to build the shock and compare stiction with a stock shock. If there is a ton of stiction, take the o-rings and spacer back out and sand the spacer some, assemble and retry. Repeat the process until you get the right feel. Also, lube the o-rings with shock oil so you are not damaging the o-rings during the building and testing of the new shock.
6. Once you get the feel right, go ahead and assemble the shock and bleed as normal. The piston and shock ends both fit perfectly fine on the AE shaft. Make sure to have one stock front shock and one stock rear shock to compare overall shock length to when building the modified shocks as the AE 8.2 shafts are a couple MM shorter and you cannot just tighten the shock end all the way down and end up with the same overall shock length as stock.
Now you are good to go!
While we are on the subject of shock mods, I will share a couple pictures of the drilled caps I have been running with good results. I did have to go up on my oils slightly (2.5wt.-5wt.) but I really like the overall feel of the drilled caps!
Associated Part #'s you will need:
-ASC89352
-ASC89554 x 2
-ASC89555 x 2
Sworkz Part #'s it is a good idea to have:
-SWX-330095
1. First off, disassemble the shocks. I like to keep one stock shock assembled so I can get the feel of the modified shock and the stock shock very similar if not exactly the same. I make sure to pay attention to the amount of stiction the modified shock has as the shaft passes through the o-rings, but more on that in a minute.
2. Take out the orings and plastic shock parts and set them aside. The only thing you will reuse is the lower plastic shock bushing.
3. Use a rotary tool on a medium speed to enlarge the hole on the lower shock bushing to fit the 4mm AE shaft. I use the green tapered bit and it works very well. You want a slight bit of play from the bushing to the shaft. Use your stock parts and compare the fit to the modified setup at this stage to make sure you are on the right track. Too much play is as bad as not enough.
4. This is the 16mm Associated shock rebuild kit that comes with the o-rings and black spacers you will use in the bottom cartridge of the Sworkz shocks.
5. Here are the parts you will use from the Associated rebuild kit. The black spacer will go between the two o-rings and may possibly need to be sanded down slightly. Mine all needed sanding, yours may or may not. The easiest way to tell is to build the shock and compare stiction with a stock shock. If there is a ton of stiction, take the o-rings and spacer back out and sand the spacer some, assemble and retry. Repeat the process until you get the right feel. Also, lube the o-rings with shock oil so you are not damaging the o-rings during the building and testing of the new shock.
6. Once you get the feel right, go ahead and assemble the shock and bleed as normal. The piston and shock ends both fit perfectly fine on the AE shaft. Make sure to have one stock front shock and one stock rear shock to compare overall shock length to when building the modified shocks as the AE 8.2 shafts are a couple MM shorter and you cannot just tighten the shock end all the way down and end up with the same overall shock length as stock.
Now you are good to go!
While we are on the subject of shock mods, I will share a couple pictures of the drilled caps I have been running with good results. I did have to go up on my oils slightly (2.5wt.-5wt.) but I really like the overall feel of the drilled caps!
05-15-2012, 02:04 AM
#1833
Great work there Racerx336!
Haven't had problems myself with the shock shafts and I have to say my SWorkz survived some harsh landings and crashes without any kind of damage, but it's surely something I would try if I had the bending problems that some guys are experiencing.
What kind of feel did the drilled caps give you compared to stock?
Haven't had problems myself with the shock shafts and I have to say my SWorkz survived some harsh landings and crashes without any kind of damage, but it's surely something I would try if I had the bending problems that some guys are experiencing.
What kind of feel did the drilled caps give you compared to stock?
05-15-2012, 10:10 AM
#1836
Tech Apprentice
Your low speed needle is too rich. When you flood the car with fuel it richens up even more and kills the motor. Either that or you are getting fuel on the pipe when you refill. Both of those things will kill the motor.
If it was a fuel tank problem your engine wouldnt even run well at all.
If it was a fuel tank problem your engine wouldnt even run well at all.
05-15-2012, 10:23 AM
#1837
Tech Apprentice
Thank you for your input guys.
Could be that problem. This weekend race was at a place bellow the sea level and with about 42º C. We all had some hard time to tune our engines. Mine blow out several plugs on the qualification. Had to drastically change all the tune and that can sure be the problem. The thing is that the engine sounded perfectly tuned with great response and temps, even under that conditions. Probably my mistake. Thank god there is RCTech and cool guys that like to help each other. For me that's the main point of the forums. Regarding the car it was just great with no breakage at all. Not even a bended shaft LOL. Could had gone up in the suspension oils (was running 500 front - 400 rear) and probably it would be even better. The weather was just to hot. Everyone was impressed with the performance of the car.
Could be that problem. This weekend race was at a place bellow the sea level and with about 42º C. We all had some hard time to tune our engines. Mine blow out several plugs on the qualification. Had to drastically change all the tune and that can sure be the problem. The thing is that the engine sounded perfectly tuned with great response and temps, even under that conditions. Probably my mistake. Thank god there is RCTech and cool guys that like to help each other. For me that's the main point of the forums. Regarding the car it was just great with no breakage at all. Not even a bended shaft LOL. Could had gone up in the suspension oils (was running 500 front - 400 rear) and probably it would be even better. The weather was just to hot. Everyone was impressed with the performance of the car.
05-15-2012, 10:33 AM
#1838
Just bust my chops why dont you Andrew. LOL.Just kidding. You going to the Texas series race in Katy? I would like to check your shock mod out. Sounds like low speed needle is 2-3hrs fat. I have had flame issues with tanks before that when i went upside down they would go fat. Did not make any sense to me either. Thats why it took so long to figure out. Ultimately it was the low end needle being tuned wrong from a cracked tank.
05-15-2012, 10:39 AM
#1839
05-21-2012, 08:34 PM
#1841
Jason, You've got mail!
05-21-2012, 10:18 PM
#1842
I don't see it.
05-21-2012, 10:21 PM
#1843
Sent to your ascendancy address, about yellow wheels?
Dave
Dave
05-22-2012, 12:43 AM
#1844
home made new radio tray...
05-22-2012, 01:24 AM
#1845
Tech Apprentice
Mileage question
Anyone having mileage problems?
Last race this weekend I just couldn't achieve good mileage. At 7.2 minutes my tank was dry. A pilot that I sponsor (I'm the Werks importer in Portugal) was running the exact same engine, fuel, plug, with the exact same tune and temp (he races with Agama) and he was easily making 9 minutes. I know I'm more trigger happy but still is a large diference. Perhaps it's the gear ratio from the S-Workz? Another thing I think it could be is that the S-Workz drivetrain is always very tight. Anyone with this situation?
Last race this weekend I just couldn't achieve good mileage. At 7.2 minutes my tank was dry. A pilot that I sponsor (I'm the Werks importer in Portugal) was running the exact same engine, fuel, plug, with the exact same tune and temp (he races with Agama) and he was easily making 9 minutes. I know I'm more trigger happy but still is a large diference. Perhaps it's the gear ratio from the S-Workz? Another thing I think it could be is that the S-Workz drivetrain is always very tight. Anyone with this situation?