SWorkz S 350BK
#16
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)

Here's some pics of the build so far. Parts quality and finish of this buggy is outstanding. Some minor confusing instructions as some parts are out of bag sequence, but the kit goes together perfectly. I'm documenting my findings on the assembly to share with everyone. I've been really surprised at the high quality considering this is a new buggy to market. As mentioned it's up there with Xray and honestly better than some of the Mugen's I've built.
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0S350%20Build/
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0S350%20Build/
#18

Nice kit. It's the second new buggy I've seen to incorporate a rear kick up on the chassis.
Here is a nice thread from the local distributor here in Australia.
http://www.lrrcc.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=2614
Kit here comes with multiple springs and sway bars, oils and grease. All for $499 AUS I believe. Did the kit in the US come with the same?
Here is a nice thread from the local distributor here in Australia.
http://www.lrrcc.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=2614
Kit here comes with multiple springs and sway bars, oils and grease. All for $499 AUS I believe. Did the kit in the US come with the same?
#19

Hello to you.
s350 received and Mont (France)
beautiful.
test run this weekend.
really like the car here.
beautiful future
s350 received and Mont (France)
beautiful.
test run this weekend.
really like the car here.
beautiful future
#20

joint reservoir failed.
replaced by a joint reservoir ocm.
until something better
__________________
replaced by a joint reservoir ocm.
until something better
__________________
#21

testing today.
track very hole!
very good car, very solid.
not a problem in 2 liters!
Differential 20,000 BC, center 5000, rear 5000
very good
arr dampers 400 and 450
lying shocks
anti-roll bar Rear av 2.5 and 3mm
very happy with the car
plastic qualities
fiabilitée and Max!
the pleasure
track very hole!
very good car, very solid.
not a problem in 2 liters!
Differential 20,000 BC, center 5000, rear 5000
very good
arr dampers 400 and 450
lying shocks
anti-roll bar Rear av 2.5 and 3mm
very happy with the car
plastic qualities
fiabilitée and Max!
the pleasure
#22
#23

I can't wait to get my build on!
#24

Some Eye Candy for everyone
I love the dust covers. Also the inserts for the chassie that the droop screw will rest on. No more holes or adjusting droop ever run! Set it and forget it!
+ YouTube Video | |
I love the dust covers. Also the inserts for the chassie that the droop screw will rest on. No more holes or adjusting droop ever run! Set it and forget it!
#26

Really liking the look of that buggy, I just cant do PBS.
#28
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)

Added the rest of the build pics to my photobucket album.
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0S350%20Build/
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0S350%20Build/
#29
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)

Here's my build notes. Not one issue with the actual build, everything went together perfectly as designed. These notes pretty much all have to do with helping you identify parts that are out of bagging sequence or clarifying instructions. These should follow right along with your manual in sequencial order. Hopefully this will be helpful for someone. Thanks. Nate.
S-Workz 350 BK1 Pro Kit – Build Notes
Nathan Aker – Ascendancy Racing
•Page 17, step 6: I was confused on which was the correct part for 200102 from the tree. After looking I realized the two front lower arm holders are marked with a 1 and a 0 on the outer side (for 1 or 0 degree kickup) to help identify them.
•Page 18, step 7: Per the setup sheet in the back of the manual, use rear lower insert with hole at the top to provide 3 degrees rear anti-squat.
•Page 18, step 8: Parts get out of sequence with bags. Arms, set screws, and screws are in bag E. Sway bar arm (200158) is in bag F.
•Numerous following steps use various screws from many small bags in large bag E. You might as well open all the small screw bags and get them laying out. Steps pull from multiple bags.
•Page 19, step 9: The inserts for the lower arm mount are not marked and the step doesn’t indicate if they should be installed with the holes up or down. Per the setup sheet at the back of the manual, these should be inserted with holes to the bottom, reducing front kickup by 1 degree. (-1 position)
•Page 19, step 9: The clip (200134) is inserted into the lower hinge pin. The instructions don’t indicate whether it should be the narrow or the wider clip from the parts tree. You should use the wider clip, marked with a number 4 on the tree.
•Page 19, step 10: The step does not indicate which swaybar color is used. Front swaybar 115008 is the silver 2.3mm swaybar.
•Page 19, step 10: Set screws 104004 is not in the current bag. Found in bag I
•Page 21, step 14: Pin inserts (200126) are difficult to find on parts tree due to a large number of inserts. Use the inserts on the parts tree marked with the number 4 (They are more shallow). Install with hole to the bottom.
•Page 22, step 15: Pin inserts should be inserted hole down per the setup sheet at rear of manual.
•Page 23, step 17: Ensure the bearing seats completely in the ackerman plate to prevent any binding after screws are fully tightened.
•Page 25, step 22: The manual lists the incorrect part number for the sway bar. Correct number is 115005 which is the silver colored larger swaybar.
•Page 28, step 27: The provided screws (105011) for the camber links are cap head screws, not button head screws as pictured.
•Page 28, step 28: The mud guards are in bag M.
•Page 29, step 30: The part number 200115 pictured looks like ball bearings in the manual, but is actually plastic inserts found on one of the parts trees.
•Page 33, step 38: The three screws in the upper right hand diagram (106002) show M3x10mm button head screws in the picture, I would recommend you use M3x10 flat head screws because the holes in the radio tray are countersunk.
S-Workz 350 BK1 Pro Kit – Build Notes
Nathan Aker – Ascendancy Racing
•Page 17, step 6: I was confused on which was the correct part for 200102 from the tree. After looking I realized the two front lower arm holders are marked with a 1 and a 0 on the outer side (for 1 or 0 degree kickup) to help identify them.
•Page 18, step 7: Per the setup sheet in the back of the manual, use rear lower insert with hole at the top to provide 3 degrees rear anti-squat.
•Page 18, step 8: Parts get out of sequence with bags. Arms, set screws, and screws are in bag E. Sway bar arm (200158) is in bag F.
•Numerous following steps use various screws from many small bags in large bag E. You might as well open all the small screw bags and get them laying out. Steps pull from multiple bags.
•Page 19, step 9: The inserts for the lower arm mount are not marked and the step doesn’t indicate if they should be installed with the holes up or down. Per the setup sheet at the back of the manual, these should be inserted with holes to the bottom, reducing front kickup by 1 degree. (-1 position)
•Page 19, step 9: The clip (200134) is inserted into the lower hinge pin. The instructions don’t indicate whether it should be the narrow or the wider clip from the parts tree. You should use the wider clip, marked with a number 4 on the tree.
•Page 19, step 10: The step does not indicate which swaybar color is used. Front swaybar 115008 is the silver 2.3mm swaybar.
•Page 19, step 10: Set screws 104004 is not in the current bag. Found in bag I
•Page 21, step 14: Pin inserts (200126) are difficult to find on parts tree due to a large number of inserts. Use the inserts on the parts tree marked with the number 4 (They are more shallow). Install with hole to the bottom.
•Page 22, step 15: Pin inserts should be inserted hole down per the setup sheet at rear of manual.
•Page 23, step 17: Ensure the bearing seats completely in the ackerman plate to prevent any binding after screws are fully tightened.
•Page 25, step 22: The manual lists the incorrect part number for the sway bar. Correct number is 115005 which is the silver colored larger swaybar.
•Page 28, step 27: The provided screws (105011) for the camber links are cap head screws, not button head screws as pictured.
•Page 28, step 28: The mud guards are in bag M.
•Page 29, step 30: The part number 200115 pictured looks like ball bearings in the manual, but is actually plastic inserts found on one of the parts trees.
•Page 33, step 38: The three screws in the upper right hand diagram (106002) show M3x10mm button head screws in the picture, I would recommend you use M3x10 flat head screws because the holes in the radio tray are countersunk.