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Starter box spring panel keeps melting

Starter box spring panel keeps melting

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Old 06-28-2011, 04:58 PM
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Default Starter box spring panel keeps melting

This is my third panel I've gone through in the past few months. My others don't have this problem and have a thinner gage wire. Am I not suppose to bump this box too many times? The first burn was due to breaking in a new motor. Since then I don't put new motors on it. Now I'm using the ofna spring panel and it's holding but I can see signs of melting. What should I do besides throw it away? Lol I see some one saying that in a reply.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:47 PM
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what kind of box is it?
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by fix218 View Post
what kind of box is it?
+1...if its the ofna truggy box and your using lipo's, that could be your problem right there.

Included in this thread is tips on installing a SPST relay that will tone down the spark on that spring switch.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...arter-box.html

Last edited by Locum51; 06-29-2011 at 07:05 AM. Reason: included link
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:57 AM
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Installing a relay is your best bet. the spring switch then only tells the relay to kick on, and it will hold much more current then the switch can, and the spring switch won't get..
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:22 AM
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relay is the best bet, but you should also use a Lipo with a lower discharge rate. 3000mAh 20C is more than enough. The switch and contact points on all the boxes out there are not designed for the amperage that high end lipos put out.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:41 AM
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I have the relay fitted but you can also replace the contacts with thicker versions - I've seen flattened copper pipe shaped to fit
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:45 PM
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There is another problem here if you are melting anything on that box. What is the C rating of the Lipo you are using? I wouldn't use anything more than 20-25C on this starter box. I'm using a 5000 mah 20C 4S and have broken in 2 engines on it. There isn't the slightest sign of melting or burn anywhere. The motors do spark on initial contact but that's normal. The only modification I made was to change the tamiya plugs to deans.

If you need to start putting in relays and circuits and blah blah blah, seriously might as well just build your own box and be done with it. Or just stick to 2 * 7.2V 5000mAh nimh packs, they will do the job without the hassle.

Plenty of people have been using a 4S Lipo in this starter box for some time without melting anything or needing to install relays and circuits. Something else is wrong.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:09 AM
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A problem i see with some starterboxes engagement point when you press down on the lid is the wheel doesn't spin up before the flywheel hits it or its just starting to roll on contact with the flywheel, and this is especially bad on a very tight motor...the starter wheel stalls under load from the tight motor but the batteries keep feeding the power making all the electrics get hot.

I found my new GO starterbox had an adjustment for this and its made a big difference hitting the wheel when its spinning at full rpms.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by curacing2 View Post
A problem i see with some starterboxes engagement point when you press down on the lid is the wheel doesn't spin up before the flywheel hits it or its just starting to roll on contact with the flywheel, and this is especially bad on a very tight motor...the starter wheel stalls under load from the tight motor but the batteries keep feeding the power making all the electrics get hot.

I found my new GO starterbox had an adjustment for this and its made a big difference hitting the wheel when its spinning at full rpms.
+1 you have to let the bump box motor rpm's top out... the other thing is run Deans or some other high current plug... I am running a 25c 4S lipo in my ofna truggy box for over a year now... If you are running the stock plug like a Tamiya type IT WILL MELT>>>

here is mine
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:47 AM
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Also not noted is making sure the box is setup correctly for your vehicle.

The wheel should engage prior to hitting your flywheel. It should also cleanly hit the flywheel and be adjusted not to bind against the chassis or anything else.

What happens normally is the box being setup incorrectly, the circuit being open with the motors trying to draw current but being on a bind.

The small brass pieces are meant to fry vs shorting out the motors. This can also lead to premature wear on the lipos and worse a short and fire.

Again I see this on boxes where the wheel is being bound up. These are torque boxes that will spin most engines easily in most cases. If not then

Take a look at all options especially since it is three.

If that is fine. Make sure there is no open wire or other that is causing a short situation.

Last edited by willbe; 06-30-2011 at 06:50 AM. Reason: curacing 2 is correct, I missed that post.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:02 AM
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I had the same issue two years ago once I put a high discharge LiPo battery in..the fix was quite simple actually, and it's still going strong today. Simply put some nice thick steel washers where the tabs used to be, and your problem will go away Here's a crappy cell-phone pic to help you out


Here's how mine is setup, but I removed the temp gun in favour of a cordless driver and 1/4" hex bits that are velcroed in:
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:15 AM
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Brass tubing Squished in a Vice and Dremeled to fit was my solution to the posts. The Relay was extra insurance and was well worth the time it takes.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:57 PM
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Mine still has the stock wiring and no probs, the battery I'm using is a 4s-10c-3850 this has what it needs not to overload the box. So stock wires work I think the c rating has too much draw on the wires, then would need to beefed up.
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