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Old 02-14-2005, 07:51 AM
  #331  
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I dont know if anybody has had a problem with the rear pivot mount and the small set screws but a couple of us have so I took a dremel and slotted the hinge pin a small amount so that the set screw has a flat area to sit against but if it does back off a little it will stop at the edge of the slot and not move any more. I also went to a slightly larger set screw. I REALLY would like to see somebody make an aluminum rear pivot block as I noticed my pivot mount was cracked last night. Couldnt be from running indoors on a hard packed track and a huge jump.

Doug
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:36 AM
  #332  
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Doug

Replace your rear hinge pins with a 1.2 rear shock shaft. Make sure the e-clip is toward the battery side to keep the pin from moving forward. You wont need the set screws

Rock Concepts will have a rear pivot in about 2 or 3 weeks.

Hope that helps
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Old 02-14-2005, 11:12 AM
  #333  
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Sounds great! I will try the shafts. Can you send me contact info for Rock Concepts?

Doug
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Old 02-14-2005, 12:13 PM
  #334  
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I raced my Ad2 saturday i had 4th place place skipped a pit for one more lap to get back into 3rd and flamed out,i drpped back to 5th ,but finished 4th out of nine trucks.I definitely can drive the AD2 harder than the original.
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Old 02-14-2005, 12:27 PM
  #335  
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I'm not sure that Rock Concepts has a number that you can call directly. However, my LHS Hot Rod Hobbies sells there products. Call Jimmy B or Tim at 661/255-2404 for more info.
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:38 PM
  #336  
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Hey guys looking at getting an ad2 and I wonder what the specs are for an engine to just "drop" in. If I've read everything right I think the kit comes with a header for rear exh engine but i'm not sure if i need a an sg or threaded type shaft. I think I need the threaded. I was considering a Sirio s12trpaf would this motor work? Also I noticed that the preference is for a rotary valve carb but every pro motor I look at comes with a slide valve. Anyone have a good recomendation for a rotary carb I'm new to Nitro (not rc) I would like what is easisest to setup and maintain and I hear that the linkage for slide valves can be a pain.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:55 PM
  #337  
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Well, I raced my AD2 this past weekend and had some nice competition.....Adam Drake himself. My car held up very nicely but had a small problem in the main. The rear hub screw backed itself out until it fell out causing my truck to swerve all over the place. Luckily it hung on to one screw long enough for me to finish the main.....4th with Adam first of course. When the screw backed out of the hub it cracked the arm at the VLA hole. Luckily Adam was nice enough to offer advice and replace the arm for me......great customer support. Big props to Losi and Adam for that
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:40 PM
  #338  
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Poppa ray, I just got a freshie O.S. .12 TR with rotary carb for $129, I have a Rex .12 in my truck now, but the carb is more sensitive, it makes tons of power though, which isn't "Always" better in 2wd gas truck.....

Most buy a $180.00 engine, $12.00 adapter and $60.00 O.S. carb......LOL...Seems easier to go with the TR to me.

Ya, Adam is a class act from TeamLosi for sure, always able to help and not all full of himself like some toy car racers end up sometimes.

My wife asked me once if all of the guys she sees at the track with thier chest puffed out realized they are playing with toy cars, LMAO.......Jim
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:57 PM
  #339  
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Hey wild gopher what is the AD2 like compared to the MST-1.
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:57 PM
  #340  
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i ran the MST-1 for about a year and just recently switched to the AD2. My first impression was the AD2 was quite a bit faster than my Mugen, with the Mugen having a TR and the AD2 having a CVR. The AD2 is much better in the turns and just felt tighten all around. The mugen is still a very good truck, but the lack of support from both Mugen themselves and aftermarket companies were a big turnoff to me. In the year that I owned it, I had issue after issue with the axles snapping, then someone finally made some aftermarket unbreakables. By the time those were released, I had already bought my AD2. My suggestion would be to drive both, and see what works best for you. I think that as long as you take the time to learn the car, you will become more and more familiar with how it works and how to set it up best for you. I just recently changed to the AD "the dirt" setup and my car is off the hook now. It handles so much better than the box stock setup, and now I am alot more competitive. To sum it all up, the AD2 is staying and the Mugen will be for sale soon
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Old 02-15-2005, 02:24 AM
  #341  
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Wild Gopher

What dirt set up are you talking about? and whear can I find it.
Thanks
Dave mac
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Old 02-15-2005, 04:23 AM
  #342  
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Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
No problem dude!

http://adub.rcpics.net/ad2
Click on the link above. That will lead you to the setup he is talking about.

Jon

P.S. I tried to just post up the pdf setup but it was too big. Good thing the link works well.

Last edited by Jon Carlson; 02-15-2005 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:17 AM
  #343  
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I knew that would come in handy
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Old 02-15-2005, 04:00 PM
  #344  
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Originally posted by W.E.D.Jim
Poppa ray, I just got a freshie O.S. .12 TR with rotary carb for $129, I have a Rex .12 in my truck now, but the carb is more sensitive, it makes tons of power though, which isn't "Always" better in 2wd gas truck.....

Most buy a $180.00 engine, $12.00 adapter and $60.00 O.S. carb......LOL...Seems easier to go with the TR to me.
What OS carb are they using? I noticed OS doesn't list there carbs and Tower doesn't list the 10M that comes w/ the 12 TR. Have you run your OS yet? And how easy is it to install? I know what you mean about power I'm currently running an electric stock T3 and have the TH Exp turned to -75%. Call me lead finger!
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:01 PM
  #345  
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I know this may have been asked before, but what is the difference between and standard #56 piston as oppossed to a "drilled" #56 piston? Is the drilled one slightly bigger?
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