Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
10-19-2005, 07:29 PM
#1186
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
If you were to make the car 6 inches longer and 6 inches wider, it would turn VERY considerably less than it does now.
what about long wheel base but narrow than standard car like this
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and what about short wheel base but wider than standard car like this
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how are the steering, traction, driveable
Last edited by arghh; 10-19-2005 at 07:40 PM.
10-19-2005, 11:07 PM
#1187
Well first of all the width of the X1 is not adjustable, so i don't know why your bringing it up? The farther the rear hubs are moved back the more steering and stablity through the bumps you will get and the farther forward you move the rear hubs the more rear traction you will get. Now if you could lengthen or shorten the wheelbase and keep the wieght distribution the same that would be a different story.
10-20-2005, 01:54 AM
#1188
macnkitty - Try not running the springs in the brakes..and make sure everything is set up all nice and loose. The aftermarket discs stick less.
uwadockers - I am convinced that steering is the most important thing in 1/8th scale. I'd run the hubs back to give the car more steering and go through the bumps better.
arghh - It is all proportional..both would have the same effect.
wheelnut - Very well said!
uwadockers - I am convinced that steering is the most important thing in 1/8th scale. I'd run the hubs back to give the car more steering and go through the bumps better.
arghh - It is all proportional..both would have the same effect.
wheelnut - Very well said!
10-20-2005, 06:05 AM
#1189
Wheelnut, true, if you could lengthen the wheelbase and keep the wieght distribution the same the car would feel easier to drive(less responsive) and be better in the rough, with the same "balance" or "feel", but most likely much more sluggish.......Jim
10-20-2005, 02:31 PM
#1190
brake issue:
take the guides out completely
they are pointless IMO
i converted to dual discs and ditched the quad set up
put Thunder Tiger discs and just did the normal adjustments and it worked fine from then on out
no binding sticking or anything and super good brakes
take the guides out completely
they are pointless IMO
i converted to dual discs and ditched the quad set up
put Thunder Tiger discs and just did the normal adjustments and it worked fine from then on out
no binding sticking or anything and super good brakes
10-20-2005, 04:30 PM
#1191
i think i found a good suspension set up. 40 in the front and 35 in the rear. i changed the shock hole position in the rear to be more vertical. front and rear are bones level. before, when i pushed the rear end down, it came up only about 1/4 of desired extent. now, it springs right back up to bones level. i will move the steering link to the forward most position, and the wheelbase will be shortened as much as possible. this should help me to attain more steering. 
10-20-2005, 08:11 PM
#1193
Tech Initiate
Last edited by turboburns; 10-21-2005 at 09:26 PM.
10-21-2005, 07:41 AM
#1195
Originally Posted by turboburns
See if I can summarise everything right. Please correct them if they are wrong;
To achieve more steering;
1) Move the rear hubs behind with 2 spacers to improve front tyres traction and less rear tyres traction.
-Coincidently this also increases wheelbase which will increase stability on the straights
-Just my opinion, I think short wheelbase gives tighter turns when running the car slow but increases risk of spin out at high speed turn)
2) Change shock oil to higher density at front shocks as compared to the rear.
3) Change rear shock position to more upright and front shock position more slanted.
3) Change to softer anti-roll bar at the front and stiffer anti-roll bar at the rear.
4) Change to high grip tyres on the front and low grip tyres at the rear.
5) Use steering holes furthest away from the axial.
6) Toe in at the rear and toe in at the front.
To achieve more steering;
1) Move the rear hubs behind with 2 spacers to improve front tyres traction and less rear tyres traction.
-Coincidently this also increases wheelbase which will increase stability on the straights
-Just my opinion, I think short wheelbase gives tighter turns when running the car slow but increases risk of spin out at high speed turn)
2) Change shock oil to higher density at front shocks as compared to the rear.
3) Change rear shock position to more upright and front shock position more slanted.
3) Change to softer anti-roll bar at the front and stiffer anti-roll bar at the rear.
4) Change to high grip tyres on the front and low grip tyres at the rear.
5) Use steering holes furthest away from the axial.
6) Toe in at the rear and toe in at the front.
10-21-2005, 02:20 PM
#1196
The only adjustments I make from the setup I posted are ride-height..that's how I get my car to turn, or have more traction, or anything else. No other adjustments needed.
10-21-2005, 09:25 PM
#1197
Tech Initiate
Last edited by turboburns; 10-22-2005 at 07:32 PM.
10-21-2005, 11:39 PM
#1198
when you change the rear shocks to more upright, you get more static steering that means on tight technical track it will turn in quicker. when you lay the shocks down you get less turn in this situation is good for a track with sweeper turns. with lay down shocks the car will carry more speed thru sweepers but will not turn in as quick. i think raising the front shocks to upright gives the front end more stability less steering. one thing that has been left out is the camber link. if you move the front camber link to the lowest hole you are shortening the camber link and giving the car more steering. and the same goes for the rear. if you were to put the camber length on the upper inside hole. inside to diff housing you created the less grab of camber on the rear end making the rear end loose giving you more steering. by having a longer camber link. if you put the camber link in the hole on the bottom and farthest away from the diff housing you are giving the car the most traction from camber. by having the shortest camber link. now Aaron has drilled a hole farther in on the shock tower in the rear effectivly lenghthening the camber link and making the rear end looser than anyone can without making that mod. a loose rear end gives the effect of more steering. because the rear end will whip around easier because it has less traction due to camber. hope this helps and if i have made any mistakes please correct me.
10-22-2005, 03:07 AM
#1199
Never run toe-in in the front. Toe-out will make the car have more steering. Toe-in is used in 2wd cars to calm down the steering of the car.
rocket - The location where I run my rear camber link takes away a lot of the camber change of the rear tires and will keep the tires flatter when accelerating in a straight line, which means more traction.
rocket - The location where I run my rear camber link takes away a lot of the camber change of the rear tires and will keep the tires flatter when accelerating in a straight line, which means more traction.
........Jim