Crocket

Hi Jason, Do you have any pics of this Killer ride....I would be interested to see how it looks with all the King Headz parts.

Cheers.........Dave

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

i will take some and post them up....

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

As i read form your second post you have only just bought an X1-CR and you are yet to find out that the chassis will wear fairly quickly.
By wear i mean it will wear through the hard anodising very quickly and start to wear the chassis thinner and thinner.
The track we race on is pretty hard clay but also sandy so it's like landing on sand paper when you race.
I could raise the ride height so it doesn't hit so much but it would handle like a nun's tit then.
So this is why i am wondering what would be a good replacement chassis that will give good wear but not be dearer too.
The OT stuff is way too dear.
It's got bling but i can get a FTE Chassis a lot cheaper.
I was wondering how the Dragon Racing chassis held up as they are even cheaper again.
Thanks for your help guys.

Jerseyboy

Ive just recieved my Dragon racing Chassis and some other upgrade parts.
The chassis looks and feels better than the X1 Pro Chassis. The anodising is like a gloss finish. I like that as the dirt wont easily pack on to it. The standard chassis has a sort of matt finish. Mud easily clings to it.
I just recieved it a few minutes ago but the first thing I did was to compare it to the standard chassis. I kept my old chassis from last year for exactly this reason. I compared the lining up of the holes.
The width length and holes are all identical. So it should be a shoe.
I cannot comment on the wear rate or the type of aluminium under the anodising.
I will probably only use this chassis next year as my current one is still very good. I only bought it as the price was very good.
I also got the Dragon racing rear toe block set(of 3), The 22deg front c-hub, the cnc rear hub and I bought the Kyosho SP2 titanium driveshafts for the the front.
Looks good. I will only use it much later.

Jerseyboy

RCRacing.com.au

Here is the pics. Are you fimiliar with this version.

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Hi Jerseyboy,

Yes this is the P5X which is the model after the one i had.
Also the one i had was a Rex version with the blue head.
This one looks like it has a 2 needle carby which should be better than the one i had.
How does it go?
Thanks for letting me know about the chassis.
I will order one also as i wanted to hear from someone who had seen one in the flesh.
Do the titanium drive shafts fit also?
My front ones are starting to wear so i might get them too.
Do the Titanium Out Drives also fit?

Jerseyboy

The engine is balistic. I ve done some mods and will test more later.
I will look at the unis later and post some pics for you 2morow. The outdrives should work as they are the same as the Jammin's.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

This is just to say HI to you guys, so much time wothout posting here ... finally im in Bogota-Colombia and i have my Jammin FTE ready to go, next July 8th will be my first race with it ... 2.600mts (8.035ft) over sea level track, grass based track ... im still open for advices on setup, very heavy little and technical track :








cya,

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking forward to hearing how you go.
I've been holding off ordering my chassis so i can get them all together.


Tabushi nice to see you back here mate.
Let us know how the Mega engine goes.
Grass set up is different cause you will get lots of traction so just keep that in mind.

Genius

hey guys! anyone ever tried the red carbon clutch shoes from hongnor? How are they? thanks

Takt

iTrader: (15)

What bodies fit the X1 buggy? Only the jammin, or can others fit with a little modifcation?

Thanks

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

i use a proline crowd pleaser 2.0 made for the jammin...

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

J concepts Illusion and the PL crowd pleazer are the best fits ...... I like the crowd pleazer the best.

TomB

iTrader: (10)

i hate how with most buggy bodies you have to make little holes every where for the body to fit right

you need to make holes for the brake/throttle linkage to move free when at full throttle or break, you kneed to make a hole where the pressure nipple on the pipe hits the body so that it can sit lower....i even needed to make a small hole on the reciever box side so that one of the corners of the box would not lift up the body.

they look so crap with all these little holes everywhere, why doesn't proline just make bulges where there needs to be extra clearance???

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

ya, i have the same problem when i use my JP pipes. the throttle linkage does poke into the inside of the body and makes it move too. sometimes the steering bellcrank scrapes and pushes the inside of the body too. so much custom fitting does make the body look hack.