Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
#346
SGT, the rear toe plate (hinge pin bracket) is 3 degrees, PN 40575. This is included in the kit. PN 40576 is 3.5 degrees and PN 40577 is 2.5 degrees. All toe in. Front toe is set by turnbuckles.
I'm not sure I follow you for camber setting, bet the camber links are adjustable by turnbuckles, so you set it where ever you want.
If you mean caster, I don't know the values, but the kit includes a two hingpin holders, one for "high" and the other for "low" caster values.
If you mean anti-squat, PNs 40592, 93, 94 offer 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 respectively. These are available as options. The kit anti-squat plate has 2.5 degrees.
I'm not sure I follow you for camber setting, bet the camber links are adjustable by turnbuckles, so you set it where ever you want.
If you mean caster, I don't know the values, but the kit includes a two hingpin holders, one for "high" and the other for "low" caster values.
If you mean anti-squat, PNs 40592, 93, 94 offer 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 respectively. These are available as options. The kit anti-squat plate has 2.5 degrees.
Last edited by lmslms; 02-18-2005 at 02:01 PM.
#347
No I mean what degree toe in toe out and what degree camber like - or +
#348
Kit rear toe is 3 degrees. Front toe and camber front and rear is adjustable by turnbuckle to whatever you want it.
however, popular setups include 2 degrees front toe out, and -2 degrees camber front / rear.
however, popular setups include 2 degrees front toe out, and -2 degrees camber front / rear.
#349
sgt pick up the latest car action. It has Adam Drakes set up in there. on camber I like -2 degrees front and rear. toe in on the rear is 3 degrees. on the front I set toe out by feel. if I need more turn in I make more toe out if less I make less toe out.
#350
Adam's setup is a really good balance between being easy to drive, and being aggressive. Check it out!
#351
I have my car set up like your Aaron can you tell me what you have yours set at
#352
Tech Initiate
Question for you guys
I am dying to get my hands on the Jammin but part of me says spend tha extra money and get 777. But i jus wanted to know if its worth it. Because i read some of this thread and people said that stuff is breaking and loosing up. I had a mbx5 but that bump steer killed me. Im look for something aggressive and durable that will last a 45min mains. The jammin looks like it could do it i jus want some feedback from the guys who drove it and understand it before i spend my money.
thanks guys
thanks guys
#353
Tech Initiate
question
can u guys share any good 1/8th websites or offroad.
#354
barnracers - I've been very hard on my car and it's holding up extremely well. My experiences are a good indicator of how strong the car is..haha.
sgt_morrow - My camber and toe-in settings are the same as Adam's.
sgt_morrow - My camber and toe-in settings are the same as Adam's.
#355
barn, I am no pro racer, and my jammin gets a beating. I haven't broken anything (about a gallon of fuel through the motor, 4 weekend club races). I've replaced the clutch springs, only because I've read about problems on this site. My front shock tower and the top of the front shocks are a little worn, because my cars winds up on its lid from time to time. The kit is very durable. I've also added the one piece motor mount and captured hinge pins. Not that I had any problems with the kit parts, but I added them anyway. Along with Lunsford turnbuckles.
Assembly is a bit of a bummer. I wound up opening all the bags and laying out all the parts / screws etc. I'm not used to having to hunt through bags to find a screw. But, now that I have it put together, I don't have to worry about that.
I'm not sure what info you are looking for as far as web sites go, but try these:
www.jamminproducts.com www.ofna.com www.nitrohouse.com
Assembly is a bit of a bummer. I wound up opening all the bags and laying out all the parts / screws etc. I'm not used to having to hunt through bags to find a screw. But, now that I have it put together, I don't have to worry about that.
I'm not sure what info you are looking for as far as web sites go, but try these:
www.jamminproducts.com www.ofna.com www.nitrohouse.com
Last edited by lmslms; 02-20-2005 at 09:33 PM.
#356
Glad you like it!
#357
first part broke - rear plastic arm holder on front gear box broke and the screw pop out.
this plastic arm holder have to absorb all the pressure when the buggy hitting something. supposely this part using 7075 alloy that come as a standard and not using that silly plastic arm holder. very weak point is at the centre of the arm holder, very thin sitting under the centre u/j drivecup
the screw holding the arm holder also have to be much more longer so that it can be screwed deep in the gear box to prevent it from pop out when got hard accident. once it pop out, all the tread gone out. so have to bought new gear case..???
this plastic arm holder have to absorb all the pressure when the buggy hitting something. supposely this part using 7075 alloy that come as a standard and not using that silly plastic arm holder. very weak point is at the centre of the arm holder, very thin sitting under the centre u/j drivecup
the screw holding the arm holder also have to be much more longer so that it can be screwed deep in the gear box to prevent it from pop out when got hard accident. once it pop out, all the tread gone out. so have to bought new gear case..???
Last edited by arghh; 02-20-2005 at 06:53 PM.
#358
Bummer
Haven't broken that yet..but thanks for the warning! haha
Haven't broken that yet..but thanks for the warning! haha
#359
there is 2 type of arm holder. what is the different between the A & B arm holder (longer/shorter/hinge pin hole position ..??) and what's their benefit. what will happen if using different type of the holder at once (A upper / B lower)
#360
Arghh,
Bummer to hear you broke one of them. I thought about getting the allum version, but I decided to retain the plastic to keep it weak on purpose. So I didn't have to replace a hinge pin or gearcase.
The A block is a high caster block, which reduces steering sensitivity. Probably ideal in smooth and open tracks.
The B block is a lower caster block, which makes steering more aggressive. Most often used caster block and likely to be used on technical or tight tracks. Very bumpy/rutty/ruff tracks could make the car "darty" depending on how you have the rear setup.
An explanation of the blocks is found on page 2 of X1CR manual.
Bummer to hear you broke one of them. I thought about getting the allum version, but I decided to retain the plastic to keep it weak on purpose. So I didn't have to replace a hinge pin or gearcase.
The A block is a high caster block, which reduces steering sensitivity. Probably ideal in smooth and open tracks.
The B block is a lower caster block, which makes steering more aggressive. Most often used caster block and likely to be used on technical or tight tracks. Very bumpy/rutty/ruff tracks could make the car "darty" depending on how you have the rear setup.
An explanation of the blocks is found on page 2 of X1CR manual.