Rear hub positions..
 

What affects does moving the rear hubs up/down (upper and lower holes on the rear hub) have on the car/truck??

I did a pretty good bit of searching on this, but didn't come up with much. Thanks..

i was wondering same thing
 

i did ask a pro and i was told to run the upper posostion when track is really choppy and whooped out that it will help rear remain more settled in those conditions.. i havent tried it yet so im curious for feedback from people who tried it.. i run RC8T and B...

The lower holes raise the hub upwards and lower the chassis and the upper hole lowers the hub and raises the chassis position. I imagine using the lower hole for smoother tracks and the upper hole for rougher tracks. That was how I interpreted the effect of changing that up.

Making the Camber Link longer or higher will result in less Camber change during suspension travel, which will increase traction but decrease stability. A shorter Camber Link will result in more Camber change, or a decrease in traction but more stability.

Not the links.. I'm referring to where the rear hingepins insert. There is an upper and lower hole.

What car? Not all cars have that adjustment.

A few cars in 2019 have that now, tlr 22 4.0 and 5.0, D418, etc.

on my RC8T3.1e on a grooved but dusty track, stock setting (lowest hole, so hub positioned farther up higher) it was loose.

When I lowered the hub, it gave the rear more traction.

To me, its a personal preference, some guys at my track run the same truck with the hub up and are fast. Some run it down. I'm running it lowered and it feels best for me.

Get out there and test it :-)

I feel the same way. I run hub down everywhere except the absolute highest grip tracks. Both on buggy and truggy.

8ights had the option with the TLR344008 Rear alum hubs and have these on my 8ight currently, have them installed using in the dropped position. Raises the center of gravity as well as roll center. Adjustments can be made to use this setting and allow skids with proper clearance to a degree.


I also have had issues with rocks jamming inside the rims against the hubs, arms, hinge pins/nuts, etc.. so I use this on tracks that are outdoors and have some pea gravel or what not.


I got a set trinity rear aluminum hubs coming soon and hopefully the lower profile will allow rocks to pass on by.. Is another reason I dropped the hubs is to keep the arms out of pyroclastic rock flow however now the top of the TLR hub is catching rock !! Smh

The function is called roll center. But some do also call it camber rise.

The top hole does help with low to medium traction from my experience with tracks local to me in the southeast US. I use this hole position all the time.

This is about the option some hubs have With hinge pins, thou it does in a sense change the link height which effect camber position however the link can be raise to negate this on some models, so to know what people are talking about ‘dropping hubs’ or ‘hubs up/down’ is more definitively different as you are moving the hubs and usually not the link height at first for this adjustment, though one would want to keep the link height (moving the hub link back up) and change it during practice.

Drop the hub and raising the hub link will only effect center of gravity and ride height as in a sense the Camber link Has not actually moved . Drop the hub, leave the link changes both roll center, CG and ride height, as most times the link also has to be longer in alot of cases or a tad shorter. On my 8ight it seems to effect droop out some.

Moving that hub, even if you move the links seems to have a massive effect on roll center. since your inner pins are a bit off. Some hubs have an inner and outer hole as well, long arm or short arm, essentially.

Hub down for off road jumps and bumps. Starting position. Hub up for wicked high grip smooth tracks, I almost never use this setting. If it works, it's a fluke. Long arm for bumpy tracks, short arm for smooth tracks.