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ATTENTION KYOSHO DRIVERS I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

ATTENTION KYOSHO DRIVERS I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

Old 03-11-2011, 07:38 PM
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Default ATTENTION KYOSHO DRIVERS I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

Hey guys now that i have your attention.I wanna know how you make your kyosho st-rr diffs last.How many shims on each side?and which oil you use,what tips and tricks to keep it in good working order for a while.Please help me out as i love the way the truggy drives but wanna get this issue solved.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr View Post
Hey guys now that i have your attention.I wanna know how you make your kyosho st-rr diffs last.How many shims on each side?and which oil you use,what tips and tricks to keep it in good working order for a while.Please help me out as i love the way the truggy drives but wanna get this issue solved.
be sure you use IF112C bulkheads (very important!) , use IS107 pinion and IS102 ring gear , use only the oem kyosho bearings as they dont have all the slop as some aftermarket bearings , shim so there is just an ever so slight amount of backlash when new and all the way bolted up so the bulkhead has all the tension it is going to have as it would when it is running , adjust the brakes so they dont actually lock up but effectively stop the vehicle , run for approx 15min then reshim diff


tip: put one .2mm shim behind the pinion gear
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
adjust the brakes so they dont actually lock up but effectively stop the vehicle
+100....thats how most guys chunk rear diffs on truggies...WAY too much rear brake.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
be sure you use IF112C bulkheads (very important!) , use IS107 pinion and IS102 ring gear , use only the oem kyosho bearings as they dont have all the slop as some aftermarket bearings , shim so there is just an ever so slight amount of backlash when new and all the way bolted up so the bulkhead has all the tension it is going to have as it would when it is running , adjust the brakes so they dont actually lock up but effectively stop the vehicle , run for approx 15min then reshim diff


tip: put one .2mm shim behind the pinion gear
+1
This is how i do it aswell and never had diff problems.

-Thin shim behind pinion to line it up better
-Very small ammount of backlash is allowed
-When new some slight tight spots are allowed, not too much tho as it will increase wear and will only heat up the diff.
-Make sure pinion can't move forwards/backwards but still spins free
-Use a little bit of grease on ring and pinion gears
-Use proper bearings. The stock ones are good quality but not being rubber shielded they are more vunerable to dirt...keep an eye on them and you should be good.

Like Houston said: keep an eye on brakes, don't have the breaks lock up...that is very hard on the diffs.

For me, doing the above, the gears seem to last a long time.
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Old 03-12-2011, 04:30 AM
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Good advice, but I'd like to emphasize the importance of proper brake set-up. The ST-RR features the strongest brakes of any truck on the market. The brakes have precision ground rotors and bonded semi-metallic brake pads. The pads are actually made by a high-performance brake manufacturer in Japan that makes competition brakes for a variety of full-scale racing applications. The brakes are incredibly strong. Their construction makes them more consistent than any other brakes, but it also makes brake adjustment more critical. You need a radio that has precision end point adjustments, and the brakes need to be carefully set-up.

Set-up the brakes so they don't lock-up. A lot of us like to think that we have precision in our throttle finger to regulate the braking so lock-up doesn't happen, but the smarter move is to take the time to set the braking end point so there's no lock-up even when full brake is applied. When a heavy truggy is running at full speed and poorly adjust brakes are slammed to full lock when the truck is running at full speed, the ultra-strong brakes of the ST-RR produce a violent reaction, which is very hard on the drivetrain.

Lesser brakes don't really have this challenge because they can't produce as much stopping power and they tend to fade with heat, but they also don't provide the strong and consistent stopping power when you need it. The ST-RR brakes will never let you down when you need good brakes, but they do require that you respect the tremendous stopping power they produce by taking the time to set-up the brakes properly.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
be sure you use IF112C bulkheads (very important!) , use IS107 pinion and IS102 ring gear , use only the oem kyosho bearings as they dont have all the slop as some aftermarket bearings , shim so there is just an ever so slight amount of backlash when new and all the way bolted up so the bulkhead has all the tension it is going to have as it would when it is running , adjust the brakes so they dont actually lock up but effectively stop the vehicle , run for approx 15min then reshim diff


tip: put one .2mm shim behind the pinion gear
Correction on the Chrome Moly ring gear. The part # is KYO IS101, IS 102 is the older pinion number. Good info here, +1 on the brake set up.
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:35 AM
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All about the backlash...

What the guys are saying about breaking is also important.

The backlash is the key. You want it very slight when knew, probably tighter than you think. This will break in from there.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:23 AM
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Default Great question and great answers....

Like Monty said, you need to reshim after it wears in....Not really the gears, but the diff inside the bulkhead....and I would never have thought about the brakes.....the mugen truggy has this issue as well...I'll pass on the info to my buds who run truggy.....The smaller pinion gears seem like the culprit...to change the gear ratio.....
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:45 AM
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It's truggies in general really.

Bottom-line in my experience if you keep up with the maint. you'll be fine.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:38 PM
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Steve- thanks for the info on the brakes. What is a good process for setting up the breaks in terms of those endpoints? Any process to setting them up would be great.

Looking forward to a great season with my new St-rr. Just want to make sure I do things right with this thing.

Thanks for any info.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveP View Post
Good advice, but I'd like to emphasize the importance of proper brake set-up. The ST-RR features the strongest brakes of any truck on the market. The brakes have precision ground rotors and bonded semi-metallic brake pads. The pads are actually made by a high-performance brake manufacturer in Japan that makes competition brakes for a variety of full-scale racing applications. The brakes are incredibly strong. Their construction makes them more consistent than any other brakes, but it also makes brake adjustment more critical. You need a radio that has precision end point adjustments, and the brakes need to be carefully set-up.

Set-up the brakes so they don't lock-up. A lot of us like to think that we have precision in our throttle finger to regulate the braking so lock-up doesn't happen, but the smarter move is to take the time to set the braking end point so there's no lock-up even when full brake is applied. When a heavy truggy is running at full speed and poorly adjust brakes are slammed to full lock when the truck is running at full speed, the ultra-strong brakes of the ST-RR produce a violent reaction, which is very hard on the drivetrain.

Lesser brakes don't really have this challenge because they can't produce as much stopping power and they tend to fade with heat, but they also don't provide the strong and consistent stopping power when you need it. The ST-RR brakes will never let you down when you need good brakes, but they do require that you respect the tremendous stopping power they produce by taking the time to set-up the brakes properly.
Steve are you coming with a new st-rr?
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:45 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies.I use the spektrum dx3r and am thinking about using a spektrum 6040 for the throttle so it doesnt have the insane power of locking up the brakes.So i leave the space from the manual between the brake and the pad right?I just tune with the servo endpoints right?That would make it alot easier.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pntmachine View Post
Correction on the Chrome Moly ring gear. The part # is KYO IS101, IS 102 is the older pinion number. Good info here, +1 on the brake set up.
Excuse me

Is107pinion and is101 ring gear then
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