What bearing?
#3
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Answer, Avid, Boca, Acer, Protek, TKO,
Pretty much used some from just about all those and then some. Right now it's Answer and Avids mostly.
Rubber seals in some places (usually with one seal removed on stock kit bearings), Revolutions (or simular style with one metal sheild and rubber or teflon sheild), Ceramic's if the track surface isn't too dirty or if I want a more free drive train. Pretty much depends on what I want/need the bearing for in a given location.
Pretty much used some from just about all those and then some. Right now it's Answer and Avids mostly.
Rubber seals in some places (usually with one seal removed on stock kit bearings), Revolutions (or simular style with one metal sheild and rubber or teflon sheild), Ceramic's if the track surface isn't too dirty or if I want a more free drive train. Pretty much depends on what I want/need the bearing for in a given location.
#6
rubber sheid on my 1/8 truggy and 1/8 buggy i use protek and tko bearings and avid .
tko for the clutch bearings and protek or avid bearings for the drivetrain.
i leave the shields and grease in the bearings on the drivetrain so they will last .
tko for the clutch bearings and protek or avid bearings for the drivetrain.
i leave the shields and grease in the bearings on the drivetrain so they will last .
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (48)
I am still operating under the notion that 1/8 scale offroad racing "eats" bearings (at least wheel bearings).
As a result, I keep a supply of $1.00 bearings (usually Avid Revolutions - rubber shield one side, metal shield on the other) on hand.
Weekly PM is to inspect and replace ANY bearing that feels questionable (NOT smooth).
I got curious one day to try and determine whether or not a "gritty feeling" bearing was due to dirt infiltration or bearing damage (balls, races, etc.).
I removed both shields to be able to thoroughly clean the bearing. After numerous sprays with chemical degreasers and compressed air, I felt fairly convinced that all grease and any other foreign material was gone.
The bearing still felt "gritty" or just not smooth; no different from when the seals were still on.
I stopped there and just assumed ball or race damage due to the high impact the wheel bearings go through during a race on these MX still tracks we have today. On another note, the diff bearings (both outdrive and pinion) last noticeably longer, even though they attract the same, if not more dirt around the bearing seals. Seeing as they do not take the impact that wheel bearings do, I suppose this makes sense. The test I performed above was on a wheel bearing.
So my conclusion is to still keep $1.00 bearings on hand, viewing wheel bearings as disposable items.
I have wanted to try a more expensive wheel bearing just to see if they last any longer. My only experience with ceramic has been replacing the diff balls in my 1/12th scale with ceramic. In that test, I didn't notice any longer life than standard, so I have refrained from trying this in 1/8th scale.
Has anyone done this type of test to determine if you get at least 5 times the life (average) out of a $5.00 ceramic wheel bearing as compared to a $1.00 bearing? Until it's definitive that I can get at least 5 times the life (hopefully more) out of a more expensive bearing, I will stay with the $1.00 bearings. Which in most cases, I get more than 2 club level events on these bearings. Longer on tracks with less MX style jumps (less crashing, harder landings, etc.).
Your thoughts?
As a result, I keep a supply of $1.00 bearings (usually Avid Revolutions - rubber shield one side, metal shield on the other) on hand.
Weekly PM is to inspect and replace ANY bearing that feels questionable (NOT smooth).
I got curious one day to try and determine whether or not a "gritty feeling" bearing was due to dirt infiltration or bearing damage (balls, races, etc.).
I removed both shields to be able to thoroughly clean the bearing. After numerous sprays with chemical degreasers and compressed air, I felt fairly convinced that all grease and any other foreign material was gone.
The bearing still felt "gritty" or just not smooth; no different from when the seals were still on.
I stopped there and just assumed ball or race damage due to the high impact the wheel bearings go through during a race on these MX still tracks we have today. On another note, the diff bearings (both outdrive and pinion) last noticeably longer, even though they attract the same, if not more dirt around the bearing seals. Seeing as they do not take the impact that wheel bearings do, I suppose this makes sense. The test I performed above was on a wheel bearing.
So my conclusion is to still keep $1.00 bearings on hand, viewing wheel bearings as disposable items.
I have wanted to try a more expensive wheel bearing just to see if they last any longer. My only experience with ceramic has been replacing the diff balls in my 1/12th scale with ceramic. In that test, I didn't notice any longer life than standard, so I have refrained from trying this in 1/8th scale.
Has anyone done this type of test to determine if you get at least 5 times the life (average) out of a $5.00 ceramic wheel bearing as compared to a $1.00 bearing? Until it's definitive that I can get at least 5 times the life (hopefully more) out of a more expensive bearing, I will stay with the $1.00 bearings. Which in most cases, I get more than 2 club level events on these bearings. Longer on tracks with less MX style jumps (less crashing, harder landings, etc.).
Your thoughts?
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
I still find you get what you pay for (to some extent). Last season I ran my MP9SE box stock (stock bearings) for an entire season and I only had to replace one outer rear hub bearing. The rest were still very smooth. I attribute this to them being NSK bearings (high quality Japanese bearing company). The $1 bearings just do not last as long in my opinion (yes I have tried a few different types over the years). I just wanted to try the ceramic Acer bearings this year to see if they were worth it (for durability and weight savings). I find their seals to be very good with little friction. We will see how they hold up. I would much rather just have a decent set in there to begin with and not have to change bearings all the time (with 18 or so bearings, my time is worth more...lol).
Also, never bother cleaning a gritty bearing. If it is gritty, the races have been pitted and the bearing is done.
Also, never bother cleaning a gritty bearing. If it is gritty, the races have been pitted and the bearing is done.
#10
BOCA
#14
They all are good. I have used them ALL. I can not honestly say which is best.
But I will say this, I will not spend more that a buck on a bearing - period. dont care if it took the monkey to the moon. I prefer yellow sealed Avid.
But I will say this, I will not spend more that a buck on a bearing - period. dont care if it took the monkey to the moon. I prefer yellow sealed Avid.