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Old 01-23-2011, 12:27 PM   #1
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Default Pros/Cons on running an ON/OFF switch

Hi, this may be a retarded question, but I've noticed some racers running an ON/OFF switch on the battery supply to there 1/8th scale buggies and truggies while some simply just run a plug that requires unplugging to kill the power to the servo's and reciever. Can you folks explain the Pros/Cons to each method or if theres any real difference or reason to do one or the other???
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #2
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I personally don't see any pro's to not running an on/off switch... It is pretty easy to stick your hand up into the body and slide a switch rather than having to unplug everything... That's just me though...
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:40 PM   #3
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convience so you can just flick the power off easier thats about it really.

the cons they always go bad on you at the worst time .

so, its best to just hardwire the wires together and add a deans connector to the battery and it never has any problems and has a better connection.

the downside you have to remember to unplug the battery after a race.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:41 PM   #4
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Many worry about the switch failing so choose to run without, I use a switch and haven't had a failure but if I do I could see myself not using one so just preferance.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:42 PM   #5
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Without a switch, there's one less component to fail and potentially kill everything else in the process.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:45 PM   #6
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I've seen a few racers having radio problems that were traced back to a faulty switch. I don't even run one in my e-buggy.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:58 PM   #7
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Never had much luck with switches, always failing on me. And then there is the nuisance of all the extra wires to fit in the radio box.
I now use mini deans connectors, then use glue lined heatshrink to support the wires.
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Old 01-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #8
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I personally will probably never run and On/Off switch again. I have had a couples failures at the worst time. In Nitro off road the switch's are not as bad but I still won't run one. In electric the switches they use on ESC's always seem terrible (Castle is the worst) and it's not a question if the switch will fail it's when. If you run one in nitro I strongly recommend changing them out for a new one every so often to prevent failures. For the extra two seconds it's take to plug a battery in it's not worth it in my opinion. Switch's can also be turned off by a bad crash or if you just land a certain way off a jump. You can combat this by mounting the switch so the on switch is facing forward, but if you kart wheel there's nothing really stopping it from happening. One of the biggest things in racing is getting rid of failure points, and getting rid of a switch is one.

In nitro I am using a very short receiver wire extension that plugs in the receiver. Then the other end of the extension I put through the hole where the On/Off switch would normally go. Then I put the power lead on the receiver battery pack through the On/Off hole as well. Then just before a race I plug the battery lead into the extension and it's ready to go.

In electric I simply cut the switch off and hardwire it so when I plug the battery in the car turns on.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:16 PM   #9
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Never had a problem with the on/off switch on any Tekin RX8. Saw one guy have a problem with his on his RX8 this past weekend, but it was his fault, the wires got cut up by the rear center driveshaft. Poor installation, not the switch's fault. Seen a lot of Castle on/off switches go bad though. Their larger switches let in too much dirt and dust and they go bad often. Tekin's smaller switches work great.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:47 PM   #10
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Well here is the problem I had before, I had a Migen MBX5 and the switch on that is vertical unlike my hot bodies which is horizontal, I had the off position set down direction on the box and i bottomed out after a jump and the switch cut its self off and well BAM! lol brick wall it didnt end well but now i put a drop of ca in my switches to give it some resistance to move.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:50 PM   #11
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I have burnt up a few servos because of bad switches,now I just use deans mini plug.No more problems since.
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Old 01-23-2011, 03:29 PM   #12
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A LOT of awesome points and reasons for running without a switch, I REALLY appreciate everyones response. I've made my decision to also reduce 1 more risk of failure by eliminating the switch! Thanks everyone, you ARE the best!
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:05 PM   #13
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Yeah this thread was very helpfull.....I've actually never had issues with an on/off switch...but have witnessed a lot of switches go bad....I think I might eliminate my switch aswell....
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:13 PM   #14
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I've actually had many switches go bad on me...lucky that none caused any serious runaways. I just ended up using the plug in method...but just a word of caution...always remember to unplug!!! I forgot to unplug one time after a race and when I got back to my table after turn marshaling...ended up frying a brand new 9100t. (OUCH, lessen learned!!!!!!!!!)
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:34 AM   #15
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the switch in my xray played up it would power on then power off so the buggy would surge, still drivable but only just I couldnt work out what it was until I went straight to the rx and bypassed the switch and she ran great after that, but I like to run a switch on due to being easy you dont have to take off you body etc etc.
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