NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

Well im making this thread for the HB boys. What set-up's and tips you guys got. No more secretes let it out lol. I wanna hear it all from 3mm spacers, camber, oils, ride heigth, spring rates, droop etc put it all in here!

I have some like shimming ur air filter retainer so the linkages dont rub, also running losi filters and housing, and im using losi servo horns but i bend them up a little bit to clear the servo and they work like a charm!

one8updragracer

iTrader: (5)

you mean like this post here? http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ies-buggy.html

900 pages of setup tips.

Greg B

iTrader: (68)

I struggled alot with the D8 for quite sometime. I spoke with Josh Alton and came up with small areas to work with that were overlooked by many.

Front
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- Lower hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Shock oil- 400 with 1.4 pistons.
Shock spring- Gray 60mm with long truggy ends. Cut off 3mm on the long truggy shock end. Total length 103mm.
Diff oil- Remove the shims from the internal gears. Diffs are too tight. 5K oil.

Rear
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- inner bottom hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Hub Position- upper hole if traction is present. Lower hole if traction is needed, hubs in forward position.
Diff oil- Remove shims from the internal gears. 3k oil.
Long shocks, Yellow 68mm spring. 110 length. 350 oil, 1.2 piston.

Center diff - 7k

Ride height- 28mm front, 29mm rear
Camber- -2 front and rear.
Sway Bar- 2.4 front, 2.8 rear. If more rear traction is needed, go to 2.5 rear bar. Mugen or Odonnell bar fits fine.

This setup is the easiest to drive that I have found. Car works well.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Greg, could you please email that to me on FaceBook? I'm not on my own cpu at this time n don't want to lose this. Thx

jbright33

iTrader: (15)

i found that simple things like losi rear wing works better. light weight main gear makes a bif difference(mine is homemade using a carbide drill bit saves money)

NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

Not even close first few pages are just talking and halfway threw are just post about builds etc and little set ups. More like 5 pg's of set ups total i will bet and you have to go through 900 pages to find them not what im looking for im looking for quick tips and set-ups. Not to go through conversations about off topic stuff and searching. Im not that desprit i made this to help others aswell as me on what tricks people do.

redbones

great setup. but wouldn't taking out the shims in the bevel gears make the contact patch smaller = stripping the tooth?

voodoopapa

iTrader: (4)

Can you use any brand servo horns on the D8. I've got ace servos and love their stock servo horns. Can they be used or do you have to use the HB ones?

Greg B

iTrader: (68)

You get better diff action and no stripping. Over one year with no issues.

redbones

cool, thanks! anyone have other tips? not really a tip, but here's one. when building the bulk heads, don't tighten the bottom screws down too much, or it will cause the lower arms to bind. back off a little until you get the perfect clearance.

I use a silicone sealant on the bottom of the bulk heads where it mates with the chassis. I put a little around the inner edge on the bottom of the bulkhead, and wait till it dries just a little. then I torque the screw down. With this, my diff compartment was completely dirt free at the end of a long race day. I peel off, and reapply after a tear down.

madac

iTrader: (1)

I use the 3mm spacer under the air filter mount for clearance of the linkages.

I also put washers in beside the rear hub carrier to make it a little tighter and less slop same in the front. Small shims in between the front spindle and the front hub carrier on the top.

I put shim washers on the hub between the bearing and the 17mm hex to get rid of the slop in the camber and makes it tighter, my bearings don't get worn out as fast from the lack of slop.

I run mugen 7000wt. in the front 10,000wt. in the centre and 5000wt. in the rear which makes the buggy and my truggy extremely responsive in turns, switches and on power is awesome.

40wt. associated shock oil and white springs preloaded at 10mm in the rear.

45wt. associated shock oil and grey springs preloaded at 8mm in the front.

I use k&n air filter oil on the inner foam and clean with k&n air filter cleaner, all on all it costs $12 for the kit and have been using for over a year and a half and I clean and oil after everytime out using upto 4 filters a day.

I found a plastic pipe the fits the hubs for in between the bearings front and rear to reduce stress there as well.

Routing front servos wires around instead of through the battery box and making a slot on the side of the battery box and the battery wires along the side of the servo wires.

I have some more coming but haven't seen if they work yet, will post if they help out and work.

brandundecided

iTrader: (9)

+2 there is no need for another thread.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

This is what I do:

start with BOOK SETUP...

Diffs 5/5/2 for my track (4/1 for center/rear is too light, 5/7/3 might be good too, track is huge for this change).

D8T long shock ends on rear shocks, shock length from center of top nut to bottom screw is 102mm in the rear, 35 losi oil (450 CST), 1.2 pistons. My car feels dialed with the short rear shocks and 1.2 pistons. You will have to snip the corners off the dust guard of the plastic rear hubs to run that much rear down travel without hitting the arms.

Front shock is book setup 100%, perhaps lighter oil or piston for a little more steering, but start with stock setup.

And for starting this season, I moved my front camber link in on the caster block as I saw all the team drivers doing this. Last year I ran it in the book position and it was fine.

Book ride height unless I'm on a tight small track, in which case I drop the front down 1mm to 28mm. If the track is really tacky, I drop the car overall 1-2 mm.

A word on the rear shocks -- long vs short. The car comes with short, the team drivers have said that the long shocks only offer an advantage in certain conditions, and they didn't always run them. Now days they just leave them on by default because they are never worse than the short shock setup, so there's no reason to ever run the shocks if you can run the longs. If you don't have the longs, its up to you if you want to invest in them -- I've never felt that I needed them, and I'm starting this season again with shorts for the 3rd year. I used shorts at the futaba nitro challenge last year and took 4th in the A out of 50+ in the expert (not pro) class, so it's not like they're bad. You shouldn't feel that you have to have the longs to compete.

Wayne

redbones

agreed +1

I also shim the steering post and center connecting plate to get rid of slop. really helps.

v6shooter

Great tip on the bulkhead too many people make that mistake.