debo179

iTrader: (7)

can you convert the 1.0 to a 2.0? what would it it take to convert it? i got a rtr for free and was wondering if its possible to do it.

ghost68

A-Arms all the way around
New front rear and rear-center CVDs
Wheel Hexes
Radio Tray
Chassis
Rear Chassis Brace
Brakes
I believe they use different shock towers as well.
Possibly Rear Shocks


I would suggest you grab everything from ebay. If you are thinking of doing this via a hobby shop you are way better off selling the 1.0 and picking up a used 2.0 race roller.

A couple pointers to think about

The RTR Shock towers are fine and tough as nails. One step better would be the V2 rear tower which will give you a noticeable difference in handling vs the race roller front tower is just for looks. You could probably get both RTR towers for under $15 vs the Race Roller towers are $30-40 each
The RTR Chassis is also just fine and can be had for ~$20 vs $100 for the "Flex Tuned Chassis" there is a noticeable difference but its not like night and day.
The CVD's can be had for super cheap on ebay. I picked up a full set F/C/R for $60 not too long ago on ebay vs $150 at the lhs
A-Arms are also super cheap on ebay figure $6-10 a set vs $20 at a lhs

808gx7r

is the chassis plate a direct swap over? or do i need to change radio tray too?

ghost68

if you just intend to change the chassis you will need:
New Rear Chassis Brace
New Rear Center CVD
New 2.0 Radio Tray
Chassis (duh)

There is definitely a handling difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 chassis but with parts so hard to find for the rest of the 1.0 stuff its better to sell the 1.0 and buy a used 2.0...

debo179

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the response i think ill start looking on ebay. what about the hubs and the steering knuckels

ghost68

Crap, I totally forgot about turnbuckles... you will need a set of those also but you can get a whole set for $10 on ebay no problem The Rear hubs should work no problem and I would only replace the front knuckles/hubs when they break and when they do i would trade them for the inclined king pin spindles.

If I was to buy a new 2.0 T today the only hopups I would do to it would be the King Pin Spindles and V2 Rear tower and Aluminum Shock Caps... Other than that leave everything stock...

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

You want the 2.0 rear hubs because they require the thicker pins your 2.0 arms are already going to be drilled out to handle.

Your also going to need standard off set wheels. Your 1/2 off's you have on your 1.0 are going to be way to wide with the 2.0 arms.

l3asher

iTrader: (2)

Chassis brace is the same, the 1.0 radio box will work just fine if you already have one. The shock towers are also different. You will also need the body mounts.

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

I JUST DID THIS CONVERSION! YOU WILL NEED:
1.CHASSSIS
2.REAR SHOCKS(THE 1.0 REARS MOVE UP TO THE FRONT FOR THE 2.0)
3.ALL 6 TRUNBUCKLES
4.ALL 4 DRIVE AXLES
5.ONLY THE CENTER TO REAR CVD
6. 0 OFFSET WHEELS AND NOT 1/2 OFFSET
7. 2.0 BODY
8.FRONT AND REAR SHOCK TOWERS( AND BODY MOUNTS)...THESE ARE WHAT YOU NEED TO HAVE A 2.0...BUT THERE ARE ACOUPLE OF OTHER THINGS THAT WERE CHANGED ASWELL BUT ARE NOT A MUST TO COMPLETE...LIKE:
1.RADIO TRAY
2.CHASSIS SIDE GUARDS
3.WHEEL HEXES
4.FUEL TANK

debo179

iTrader: (7)

are some or the rtr parts the same? a arms, spindles. hubs, turnbuckles and other plastics the same as the race roller

l3asher

iTrader: (2)

All this here is the same.

debo179

iTrader: (7)

cool thanks for the info guys

debo179

iTrader: (7)

the v2 rear shock tower worth the money? what about the tft chassis is it worth it? are the alu chassis braces worth it or the stock plastic ones better? are the alu hubs and spindles worth the money. what about the incline spindle 10 or 12 deg

tharris1959

1.0 shock towers will work fine. I turned mine 2 yrs ago, still strong. The 1.0 diffs, cases hubs etc work fine. need the arms, universal shafts, turnbuckles, and chassis, rear shocks only. Everything else is 1.0.

I have been racing 2 years with the conversion- tunes just like the full 2.0. Lap times up to the driver. Very durable, but of course, there is the front steering slop. It actually runs fine with the slop, so it really isn't an issue.

Oh yeah, I drilled the rear tower to accept a buggy body mount (shown)

I also cut out the 1.0 body also, just for fun. I run it sometimes. Looks a little knarley

tc5 man

im really, thinking about doing that to my 1.0 t insend of buying a diffrent truggy i think it whould be cheaper still than getting a new truggy.

even though i dont buy from ebay i get my stuff from bluegrass hobbies .

but if i dont have the money upfront than little by little than.