Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.
07-20-2014, 03:14 PM
Tech Regular
i think it was Adam Skelding that said some where that they focus on handling, durability etc etc then worry about looks, so if a part works better but looks worse they will use it instead of one that looks nice but doesnt perform well!
08-30-2014, 05:22 AM
Here's my fix for the backplate screw and brace interference issue.
Countersink the hole and use a m3 x8mm flathead.
Countersink the hole and use a m3 x8mm flathead.
09-06-2014, 02:37 PM
has anybody heard anything about release date on the dnx8
09-06-2014, 03:28 PM
end of the year..begin next year
11-06-2014, 05:33 AM
Wow this thread was on pg5!!!!!!! Wtf happened to durango????? Smh i saw this coming years ago!
11-06-2014, 03:00 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
Wow this thread was on pg5!!!!!!! Wtf happened to durango????? Smh i saw this coming years ago!
11-06-2014, 03:15 PM
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
Wow this thread was on pg5!!!!!!! Wtf happened to durango????? Smh i saw this coming years ago!
11-06-2014, 11:11 PM
Originally Posted by Shawn_S
You knew what? That you'd be the same troll, shit-stirring, non-contributing, repeatedly banned but somehow allowed back here member, those years ago that you still are today?
11-06-2014, 11:32 PM
If Durango's new strategy is really to go more grass-roots, instead of having all their eggs in one basket (basically, being a small company with a bunch of top racers like Lutz, Neumann, etc..), I can imagine it being a good thing. They were a struggling brand. AFAIK the truggy was discontinued.. And yes, it is a very cool looking truck. With issues though, from what I gather... They were being sold off dirt cheap earlier this year I think. I considered getting one, but stayed away due to lack of support and doubts about its future. Others didn't, and ended up being kind of screwed. Anyway, Durango is too small currently to pay a bunch of top drivers. I can see how it would be better to spread out local sponsorships to become more pervasive locally... Just random armchair QB'ing though..
02-10-2015, 04:09 PM
Originally Posted by maxflo777
6x3x2.5 or 6x3x3. The locktite mod is worthless. Sorry lol.
did you leave out some info here? like you used a m3X10 or M3X11 screw instead?
Last edited by mtpocketsracing; 02-10-2015 at 04:31 PM.
02-10-2015, 04:42 PM
Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing
not sure how you got those sizes but the steering ackermann link holes and steering plate screws measure 4X6X3. a 3mm inner hole is way too small for the stock steering plate screw (TD270004).
did you leave out some info here? like you used a m3X10 or M3X11 screw instead?
did you leave out some info here? like you used a m3X10 or M3X11 screw instead?
https://teamtobamiester.wordpress.co...-ackerman-fix/
Courtesy tobamiester
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11746914-post9046.html
02-21-2015, 09:34 AM
I know this is a very old and now pretty much useless thread. I wish I had this car years ago.
I fixed the steering rack in my opinion much better than how team durango did and how they did in the link above. the #1 problem with that fix is relying on a m3 screw's threads in the bearing inner sleeve.
to perform this mod properly would require a shoulder bolt like what is stock.
So, I feel like modifying the hole by hand in the plate to accommodate a bearing is a waste of time. my second reason is since I'm a machinist by trade, I know you cannot accurately drill that existing hole or "ream" it out with a dremel properly. and it's already punched out oversized for the bearing to fit tight and you're going to end up with a over sized hole resulting in extra clearance in it. so your work and effort is all for nothing in the end because you are still dealing with all that play with a bearing. the only proper way to do it is machine a new ackerman to fit a bearing and machine a shoulder bolt like the stock one to fit the inner sleeve of the bearing.
so I opted to use jb "quick" weld on the inserts into the ackerman. I have a bottle of retaining compound(used industrially on many machined fittings) but it's expired and never set up. the JB weld while some will think that it's a hillbilly fix, it's far from it. Jb weld used properly is a industrial strength epoxy that is commonly used in industry to affix things together in may types of joints.
99.5% of the play has been removed and for a month of use has not come back out.
btw, red locktite which durango recommends is not a retaining compound. it works for screws but not threadless fittings.
the only downside to this is periodic lube on the screw.
I fixed the steering rack in my opinion much better than how team durango did and how they did in the link above. the #1 problem with that fix is relying on a m3 screw's threads in the bearing inner sleeve.
to perform this mod properly would require a shoulder bolt like what is stock.
So, I feel like modifying the hole by hand in the plate to accommodate a bearing is a waste of time. my second reason is since I'm a machinist by trade, I know you cannot accurately drill that existing hole or "ream" it out with a dremel properly. and it's already punched out oversized for the bearing to fit tight and you're going to end up with a over sized hole resulting in extra clearance in it. so your work and effort is all for nothing in the end because you are still dealing with all that play with a bearing. the only proper way to do it is machine a new ackerman to fit a bearing and machine a shoulder bolt like the stock one to fit the inner sleeve of the bearing.
so I opted to use jb "quick" weld on the inserts into the ackerman. I have a bottle of retaining compound(used industrially on many machined fittings) but it's expired and never set up. the JB weld while some will think that it's a hillbilly fix, it's far from it. Jb weld used properly is a industrial strength epoxy that is commonly used in industry to affix things together in may types of joints.
99.5% of the play has been removed and for a month of use has not come back out.
btw, red locktite which durango recommends is not a retaining compound. it works for screws but not threadless fittings.
the only downside to this is periodic lube on the screw.
Last edited by mtpocketsracing; 02-21-2015 at 09:57 AM.
02-24-2015, 05:45 AM
about to say f it and buy both buggy and truggy. i know nitro is a whole different ball game but i have no complains with all my e cars from them so why not have all of their cars.
03-07-2016, 01:46 PM
Dusting off my old DNX408 and getting it racing again and had some questions. I know the thread is old but hopefully someone is watching and has answers. I noticed on the new DNX8 they are not doing the mod to raise the lower rear arms off the chassis by 2mm. Is this mod no longer needed? My 408 jumped better before I did that mod so I'm debating taking it off. Are there any parts from the DNX8 that I really want to get for my DNX408? Like maybe better shock bladders, shock boots, CVD boots? Any more recent good setups? Thanks!
03-07-2016, 02:06 PM
The DNX8 is a completely new platform that does not share a single part (other than screws) with the old 408 series. The 408 series used 15mm shocks, the DNX8 uses 16mm shocks. Maybe the shock boots are cross-compatible, but I don't think they're anything to write home about. Upgrading to 16mm shocks on the 408 may not be the worst idea, however I'm not positive you'll be able to tell much of a difference.
The 2mm mod was used to adjust the rear rollcenter, to help tame the rear-end. It really shouldn't have an affect on jumping. Did you readjust the ride height after the 2mm mod? Of all the things I remember about my old Durangos, problems jumping, was not one of them.
The 2mm mod was used to adjust the rear rollcenter, to help tame the rear-end. It really shouldn't have an affect on jumping. Did you readjust the ride height after the 2mm mod? Of all the things I remember about my old Durangos, problems jumping, was not one of them.
