Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.
06-08-2014, 03:29 PM
#9976
i had "0" luck with my DNX at AMS this past weekend. The track was alot bigger than my local track with many more elevation changes. Anyhow i coulndt keep the rear from bouncing around and had a tough time keeping it stable after landing some of the small/mid jumps. I dont want to give up on this buggy yet as i have plenty of $$$ vested in parts etc.... I couldnt find anyone else that ran the DNX at the AMS other than Lutz but he ran the prototype. lastly i had issues with the ball cup coming off the brake arm EVERY race(replaced the cup twice). the only mod i have on it is the rear shocks are now on the backside of the shock tower. Will the shimmed rear help as i found that mod after the races doing research. also my batt still sits in the v2 position any suggestions?
heres my current set up:
-diffs 5/7/3
-shock oils 42.5wt F 35wt R
-6 hole pistons F & R
-frt shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount outside 2nd from the bottom 9 hole
-front a arm outside 1 hole
-rear shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount inside 2nd from the top 2 hole
-rear a arm inside 2 hole
-@ 1/4 rebound on F & R shocks
-rear hubs middle 2nd hole
-front springs are med mugen springs and rear soft mugen silver springs.
anyone???
heres my current set up:
-diffs 5/7/3
-shock oils 42.5wt F 35wt R
-6 hole pistons F & R
-frt shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount outside 2nd from the bottom 9 hole
-front a arm outside 1 hole
-rear shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount inside 2nd from the top 2 hole
-rear a arm inside 2 hole
-@ 1/4 rebound on F & R shocks
-rear hubs middle 2nd hole
-front springs are med mugen springs and rear soft mugen silver springs.
anyone???
I wish you would have came and talked to me about the car this weekend. I would have been glad to give some pointers. Justin Cranford who was pitting with me was also running the car.
One thing is the track was very slick and it warranted going down in center diff fluid to give the car a more front-wheel drive effect. Going to 3 or 4 in the center diff I think would have helped you.
I do not thing raising the rear roll center 1mm or 2mm would have been beneficial on this track. Generally I ran +2mm on very high traction tracks and +1mm on decent traction tracks and then no shims on loose tracks (Like AMS).
I also didn't have much luck with 6 hole pistons on the car. I usually ran 4 hole pistons which could be seen from my previous set-up sheets with the car. (To achieve take a soldering iron to melt closed off 2 of the holes on the piston.)
Let me know if I can be of further help. I'm easy to reach on Facebook, or through e-mail off my blog, or when I check it on here.
06-08-2014, 04:32 PM
#9977
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Hello,
I wish you would have came and talked to me about the car this weekend. I would have been glad to give some pointers. Justin Cranford who was pitting with me was also running the car.
One thing is the track was very slick and it warranted going down in center diff fluid to give the car a more front-wheel drive effect. Going to 3 or 4 in the center diff I think would have helped you.
I do not thing raising the rear roll center 1mm or 2mm would have been beneficial on this track. Generally I ran +2mm on very high traction tracks and +1mm on decent traction tracks and then no shims on loose tracks (Like AMS).
I also didn't have much luck with 6 hole pistons on the car. I usually ran 4 hole pistons which could be seen from my previous set-up sheets with the car. (To achieve take a soldering iron to melt closed off 2 of the holes on the piston.)
Let me know if I can be of further help. I'm easy to reach on Facebook, or through e-mail off my blog, or when I check it on here.
I wish you would have came and talked to me about the car this weekend. I would have been glad to give some pointers. Justin Cranford who was pitting with me was also running the car.
One thing is the track was very slick and it warranted going down in center diff fluid to give the car a more front-wheel drive effect. Going to 3 or 4 in the center diff I think would have helped you.
I do not thing raising the rear roll center 1mm or 2mm would have been beneficial on this track. Generally I ran +2mm on very high traction tracks and +1mm on decent traction tracks and then no shims on loose tracks (Like AMS).
I also didn't have much luck with 6 hole pistons on the car. I usually ran 4 hole pistons which could be seen from my previous set-up sheets with the car. (To achieve take a soldering iron to melt closed off 2 of the holes on the piston.)
Let me know if I can be of further help. I'm easy to reach on Facebook, or through e-mail off my blog, or when I check it on here.
what about the battery forward and any suggestion on keeping the ball cup on the brake ball?
thanks again.
06-08-2014, 05:29 PM
#9978
Need some help guys. Looking for part # on front n rear and steering turnbuckles Thanks Derek
06-09-2014, 01:56 AM
#9979
Tech Apprentice
i had "0" luck with my DNX at AMS this past weekend. The track was alot bigger than my local track with many more elevation changes. Anyhow i coulndt keep the rear from bouncing around and had a tough time keeping it stable after landing some of the small/mid jumps. I dont want to give up on this buggy yet as i have plenty of $$$ vested in parts etc.... I couldnt find anyone else that ran the DNX at the AMS other than Lutz but he ran the prototype. lastly i had issues with the ball cup coming off the brake arm EVERY race(replaced the cup twice). the only mod i have on it is the rear shocks are now on the backside of the shock tower. Will the shimmed rear help as i found that mod after the races doing research. also my batt still sits in the v2 position any suggestions?
heres my current set up:
-diffs 5/7/3
-shock oils 42.5wt F 35wt R
-6 hole pistons F & R
-frt shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount outside 2nd from the bottom 9 hole
-front a arm outside 1 hole
-rear shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount inside 2nd from the top 2 hole
-rear a arm inside 2 hole
-@ 1/4 rebound on F & R shocks
-rear hubs middle 2nd hole
-front springs are med mugen springs and rear soft mugen silver springs.
anyone???
heres my current set up:
-diffs 5/7/3
-shock oils 42.5wt F 35wt R
-6 hole pistons F & R
-frt shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount outside 2nd from the bottom 9 hole
-front a arm outside 1 hole
-rear shk tower upper mount middle 2 hole, lower mount inside 2nd from the top 2 hole
-rear a arm inside 2 hole
-@ 1/4 rebound on F & R shocks
-rear hubs middle 2nd hole
-front springs are med mugen springs and rear soft mugen silver springs.
anyone???
There are so many changes that you can make and the problem is that usually when you correct the one problem, another may arise if you don't do it in small steps.
06-09-2014, 06:45 AM
#9980
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I would lengthen the camber links at the front and rear to the maximum in order calm the buggy down and remove the twitchyness. Then if your steering suffers, I would use the 10' Castor for the front. If the steering after the castor change to 10' still suffers but the rear pulls straight when accelerating you could change the rear toe-in to 2 degrees in order to allow more steering for the front when accelerating.
There are so many changes that you can make and the problem is that usually when you correct the one problem, another may arise if you don't do it in small steps.
There are so many changes that you can make and the problem is that usually when you correct the one problem, another may arise if you don't do it in small steps.
06-09-2014, 06:51 AM
#9981
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I would lengthen the camber links at the front and rear to the maximum in order calm the buggy down and remove the twitchyness. Then if your steering suffers, I would use the 10' Castor for the front. If the steering after the castor change to 10' still suffers but the rear pulls straight when accelerating you could change the rear toe-in to 2 degrees in order to allow more steering for the front when accelerating.
There are so many changes that you can make and the problem is that usually when you correct the one problem, another may arise if you don't do it in small steps.
There are so many changes that you can make and the problem is that usually when you correct the one problem, another may arise if you don't do it in small steps.
06-09-2014, 11:53 AM
#9982
Lengthen would be inside on tower and outside on hubs. (Longer link)
06-09-2014, 12:14 PM
#9983
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Battery forward can give more steering but there really isn't a good way to mount it and it can be hard on the battery in that position.
Should be able to find all part number on Team Durango website www.team-durango.com under the kit you are looking for parts from.
Lengthen would be inside on tower and outside on hubs. (Longer link)
Should be able to find all part number on Team Durango website www.team-durango.com under the kit you are looking for parts from.
Lengthen would be inside on tower and outside on hubs. (Longer link)
06-10-2014, 03:05 AM
#9984
Tech Apprentice
Wheelbase adjustments
Here's a nice description from the Hudy setup book...
06-12-2014, 02:32 PM
#9987
Justin was having the same problem all weekend with the brake linkage popping off. It popped off in the first two qualifiers which is why Justin was in the D-main. Only decent run we got in was the last qualifier. In the D-main Justin was leading with about 3 minutes to go and the brake linkage popped off again. Then his rear shock bottom come loss which was my fault for not getting it tight enough. We have been running the DNX408v2 for about two years now and never had any problem with the break linkage popping off untill the last couple races. I replaced the ball cup about a month ago and now we can't seems to keep it from popping off. According to Hobbico the ball cups we are using are made from the old material and not the newer Dimec material. So the plastic has been streaching just enough allowing it to pop off. To get the ball cups with the newer plastic material make sure you order from TowerHobbies. Team Durango Ball Ends Plastic DEX408/DNX408 Part #TD330121.
The Lutz World Edition Alpha engine and pipe combo run great all weekend with no issues. Really do like the combo. I want to say thanks for all the help from Lutz and Marco this past weekend at the AMS. Had a lot of fun pitting with Lutz.
The Lutz World Edition Alpha engine and pipe combo run great all weekend with no issues. Really do like the combo. I want to say thanks for all the help from Lutz and Marco this past weekend at the AMS. Had a lot of fun pitting with Lutz.
06-12-2014, 07:43 PM
#9988
Check diff mt for cracks after 2 1/2 years mine were cracked my linkage never come off but maybe I caught it in time.
06-13-2014, 11:50 PM
#9989
Tech Rookie
Does anyone have experience or recommendations for an electric conversion kit for the dnx408 v1?
06-14-2014, 09:37 AM
#9990
I use te integy conversion. On both my buggy and truggy.
