Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.
#9286

Thinking about trying the Durango could some of you shed some light about handling characteristics like rear traction--steering etc. thx in advance
#9287

I've only got a few races on mine, but I got 3 days of track time this past weekend with it at the Hobbyplex in Omaha for the rcpro series and was extremely happy with it.
In my opinion, it can be set up to do whatever you want, last season I set it up with a Lutz setup and it had a ton of steering, but the rear was fairly loose. I started from scratch this past weekend, and made changes as I went along. I ended up with a car that had a ton of bite, was easy to drive, jumped flat, and never had any issues with durability.
I also have to give a shout out to JoeHundy (Joe Walters) of Team Durango for his help and opinions on the car this past weekend. It's always nice to have a team guy to bounce setup ideas off of, and to steal a mudguard off of his backup car when yours breaks before the final
(Thanks again Joe!!!)
John
In my opinion, it can be set up to do whatever you want, last season I set it up with a Lutz setup and it had a ton of steering, but the rear was fairly loose. I started from scratch this past weekend, and made changes as I went along. I ended up with a car that had a ton of bite, was easy to drive, jumped flat, and never had any issues with durability.
I also have to give a shout out to JoeHundy (Joe Walters) of Team Durango for his help and opinions on the car this past weekend. It's always nice to have a team guy to bounce setup ideas off of, and to steal a mudguard off of his backup car when yours breaks before the final

John
#9289

We all do not possess the ever so coveted tech fanatic status like yourself... lol 
On a serious note, can someone chime in, in regards to what exactly needs to be done to run the rear shocks in the "rear"? I checked the lutz page n all, but I need someone that has done it successfully to chime in... Do I need to swap the arms to opposite sides and flip them around or something like that? and what up with the rear sway bar, does that install have to change at all, and I would need to run the upper link tower mounts on the front of the tower intsead of the rear? and cut holes in the wing to run the shocks? anything else? anything I dont need to do from what I mentioned? thank you guys

On a serious note, can someone chime in, in regards to what exactly needs to be done to run the rear shocks in the "rear"? I checked the lutz page n all, but I need someone that has done it successfully to chime in... Do I need to swap the arms to opposite sides and flip them around or something like that? and what up with the rear sway bar, does that install have to change at all, and I would need to run the upper link tower mounts on the front of the tower intsead of the rear? and cut holes in the wing to run the shocks? anything else? anything I dont need to do from what I mentioned? thank you guys

#9290
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)

We all do not possess the ever so coveted tech fanatic status like yourself... lol 
On a serious note, can someone chime in, in regards to what exactly needs to be done to run the rear shocks in the "rear"? I checked the lutz page n all, but I need someone that has done it successfully to chime in... Do I need to swap the arms to opposite sides and flip them around or something like that? and what up with the rear sway bar, does that install have to change at all, and I would need to run the upper link tower mounts on the front of the tower intsead of the rear? and cut holes in the wing to run the shocks? anything else? anything I dont need to do from what I mentioned? thank you guys

On a serious note, can someone chime in, in regards to what exactly needs to be done to run the rear shocks in the "rear"? I checked the lutz page n all, but I need someone that has done it successfully to chime in... Do I need to swap the arms to opposite sides and flip them around or something like that? and what up with the rear sway bar, does that install have to change at all, and I would need to run the upper link tower mounts on the front of the tower intsead of the rear? and cut holes in the wing to run the shocks? anything else? anything I dont need to do from what I mentioned? thank you guys

Swap the arms left/right
Flip the shock tower around
Mount camber links on the front side
Use a front sway bar to mount in the rear, still on the front side of the bulkhead
You will need some longer screws for the wing mount
You can either cut out the stock wing to clear the shocks, or move the wing back further.
#9291

I tried the rear shocks out back for the first time at the rc pro series race last weekend. While my car felt pretty good with them in the stock configuration, I felt like my car seemed a little less stable than the fast guys on the track. I tried it, and had it completed in less than 15 minutes. the description given above is spot on.
Personally, I felt like it made the car a bit less "tempermental" in the rough stuff, and it seemed to jump flatter than before. In my opinion it was an improvement, and I will likely keep it in this configuration for the foreseeable future.
Personally, I felt like it made the car a bit less "tempermental" in the rough stuff, and it seemed to jump flatter than before. In my opinion it was an improvement, and I will likely keep it in this configuration for the foreseeable future.
#9292
Tech Regular

It's pretty straight forward. It has been a while since I did this on my car, so let's see if I remember everything correctly:
Swap the arms left/right
Flip the shock tower around
Mount camber links on the front side
Use a front sway bar to mount in the rear, still on the front side of the bulkhead
You will need some longer screws for the wing mount
You can either cut out the stock wing to clear the shocks, or move the wing back further.
Swap the arms left/right
Flip the shock tower around
Mount camber links on the front side
Use a front sway bar to mount in the rear, still on the front side of the bulkhead
You will need some longer screws for the wing mount
You can either cut out the stock wing to clear the shocks, or move the wing back further.

#9293

Like any other buggy how the car handles is dependent on setup. For someone to say that this or that car doesn't handle, it is most likely that their setup is either incorrect, perhaps something not built correctly on the shocks, binding somewhere, or they copied a setup from the net that doesn't suit the conditions of the track.
Or it could be that the setup they are using doesn't suit their driving style.
I can tell you this. Using the "stock" setting, the DNX has a lot of steering and it feels twitchy or a tad bit nervous. And I was struggling a bit with rear traction. I tried Ryan's setups online, but I don't drive like him, so I can't drive his setup fast. I come from an on-road background, so I always prefer more rear end grip, so I went about changing a bunch of settings. And if you look on this tread, there are many who also preferred more rear grip, and more stability and we all ended up with roughly the same settings in terms of springs, oil, and pistons. The DNX has more steering and is more nimble than a LOSI, or Mugen out of the box. It's great for drivers who like to drift and slide a bit. You can drive it harder and more aggressively into turns, whereas the Mugen and Losi seem a bit more stable.
I wished Durango included different setups for different drivers in the instructions. One that is stable and easy to drive, and one for a more aggressive handling. Or at least include an easy to drive setup as the default setup. As I think the box stock setup is a tad on the aggressive side in terms of handling. Its easier to make it aggressive than to tame the car down, as not all drivers know about setup.
It is a durable car, reliable and quick. Just look at Ryan Lutz results. And you can always ask the others users here about a stable setup. I am sure they are happy to help.
#9294
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)

I am working with Sumo R/C Racing Products (www.sumo-racing.com) on some parts to move the receiver battery up front. Attached is a picture of where we are at. This is still a prototype and thorough testing is still taking place, but I was wondering if there was any interest in making this available for sale. The price would be around $35 due to the amount of machining involved.
#9295

I am working with Sumo R/C Racing Products (www.sumo-racing.com) on some parts to move the receiver battery up front. Attached is a picture of where we are at. This is still a prototype and thorough testing is still taking place, but I was wondering if there was any interest in making this available for sale. The price would be around $35 due to the amount of machining involved.
#9296

I am working with Sumo R/C Racing Products (www.sumo-racing.com) on some parts to move the receiver battery up front. Attached is a picture of where we are at. This is still a prototype and thorough testing is still taking place, but I was wondering if there was any interest in making this available for sale. The price would be around $35 due to the amount of machining involved.
What size battery are they made for?
#9298
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)

Yes, the servo mounts will be included. It's designed for the standard size LiFe packs that fit the stock battery tray. I have tested it with the Venom and the TrakPower batteries and both fit great. Once we finalize the product and make it available, we will publish the maximum battery dimensions.
#9299
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)

I am also working with Sumo R/C Racing Products (www.sumo-racing.com) on spacers for the wing mount, for those that want to run the stock TD wing without modifying it and still have the shocks mounted in the rear. It will also provide additional rear traction.
#9300
Tech Master
iTrader: (51)

I am working with Sumo R/C Racing Products (www.sumo-racing.com) on some parts to move the receiver battery up front. Attached is a picture of where we are at. This is still a prototype and thorough testing is still taking place, but I was wondering if there was any interest in making this available for sale. The price would be around $35 due to the amount of machining involved.
