CDCRacing

Question: are the 408 rear shocks the same! I'm getting the same part numbers for rear springs from Buggy to truggy. The Durango site has me confused any help would be great! Thanks in advance
Scott

rpmhobbies

iTrader: (14)

Yep...the rear shocks are the same.

CDCRacing

Thank you sir!

sn47som1

iTrader: (8)

So does moving the receiver battery more forward to the front of the car better anything or create an improved set up? or is it kind of an ocd type of decision?

Mr B

Moving the battery has a bit to do with your preferred setup, and center of gravity.
B!

sn47som1

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, how many tanks really need to be run through a new motor from the start, before really leaning down on it for a good race tune?

DBL15

iTrader: (8)

I ran 8 tanks up and down the street on a new .19 OS speed before the weekends events and it worked a treat and was getting over 9mins and I know it's a tad rich still.

sn47som1

iTrader: (8)

Cool, great info, I have 10 tanks through mine and was recommended to run another half a gallon before really starting to lean it out. This seems excessive to me, but I want to get 10+ gallons from this modded motor. What do you guys think?

tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

What brand/model motor ?

RevoRacer50

iTrader: (41)

10+ gallons?? I sure hope its an O.S but 10 gallons on a full blown race tune will be hard with out a pinch.

sn47som1

iTrader: (8)

Ya I hear ya its certainly a stretch, but I'm hearing of racers getting that kind of longevity out of their Radicals.

On to a more serious not- I NEED A SUSPENSION GURU HERE. The more I have been doing my homework the more I have been learning on suspension mechanics and tuning. My problem is I have tried multiple different rear shock tower inner mounting locations for the rear camber link. Just when I get the right camber degree set on the wheel and a good mounting location, I always get positive camber gain at the suspension's full rebound stroke If I switch up mounting locations on the tower to decrease the positive camber gain at full rebound (my droop setting basically), the camber starts to creep past zero into positive land during chassis roll. I want to only have an increase in positive camber to reach zero under chassis roll AND I want zero camber at the most at full suspension rebound (at my droop setting) Any fixes would be much appreciated as I don't have the time to try every camber link length, tower locations and hub locations combinations. yikes!!
There must be a better trick to this or am I asking for some kind of contradiction for a set up? I don't ever want more then zero camber under roll or full droop setting and I want the correct wheel camber degree of 2 as well. This must be possible.

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

Have you had this car on the track?

ekt

iTrader: (4)

I'm not a suspension expert, but with the middle inner and outer most hole in the hub, there is minimal camber change. On my car at least.

maxflo777

Parallel upper and lower wishbones with shorter upper will do what you want. I did not read the whole thing hahahah.

... It may not be the best thing though.

Torian4000

iTrader: (51)

I slapped my buddies old Bitty Losi 2.0 body on. Fits well.