Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.
03-13-2013, 07:55 PM
#9213
On a DX3R you set your failsafe position when you bind the receiver to the radio. If you let go of the controls when you bind, your failsafe position will be where neutral is on throttle and steering.
If at any time you make a significant change to your settings on the radio, or even swap the servo for another one, your failsafe position is sure to change.
Before you re-bind your receiver to the radio, there are a couple of things you should do:
1: Go to Reset. Scroll down to Parameters. When prompted to reset parameters select Yes. You are then prompted to cycle the controls. This means move the steering wheel lock to lock several times and also the throttle/brake full throw both directions several times. Once you've done that, turn the scroll wheel so that the word 'SAVE' on the screen becomes highlighted. Push in the scroll wheel to 'SAVE'. You have basically now reset how the radio reads your potentiometer's center positions and full throw positions, as well as all points in between. You should do this every couple of race weekends. There are potential problems long-term if you do not.
2. Now go and fine tune your settings again. Start with sub-trims to make sure the servos are centered. Then to travel. Then to your regular trim. Re-do your dual rate if you use it. Just make sure the servos are performing exactly as you want them to and that everything is straight and centered.
3. Now rebind your receiver. Once its bound you can test your failsafe position by shutting off your transmitter only and watching to see where the servos go. If they go off somewhere other than neutral, try re-binding again. If that fails, try setting up a different model memory (yes, that can actually solve a couple of problems on these radios).
If at any time you make a significant change to your settings on the radio, or even swap the servo for another one, your failsafe position is sure to change.
Before you re-bind your receiver to the radio, there are a couple of things you should do:
1: Go to Reset. Scroll down to Parameters. When prompted to reset parameters select Yes. You are then prompted to cycle the controls. This means move the steering wheel lock to lock several times and also the throttle/brake full throw both directions several times. Once you've done that, turn the scroll wheel so that the word 'SAVE' on the screen becomes highlighted. Push in the scroll wheel to 'SAVE'. You have basically now reset how the radio reads your potentiometer's center positions and full throw positions, as well as all points in between. You should do this every couple of race weekends. There are potential problems long-term if you do not.
2. Now go and fine tune your settings again. Start with sub-trims to make sure the servos are centered. Then to travel. Then to your regular trim. Re-do your dual rate if you use it. Just make sure the servos are performing exactly as you want them to and that everything is straight and centered.
3. Now rebind your receiver. Once its bound you can test your failsafe position by shutting off your transmitter only and watching to see where the servos go. If they go off somewhere other than neutral, try re-binding again. If that fails, try setting up a different model memory (yes, that can actually solve a couple of problems on these radios).
Whats funny is that now I'm remembering how it works, that the built in fail safe is set when the Tx/Rx are binded together as to which where you have the throttle and steering controls at that point- i.e. holding either full throttle, neutral, full brake, etc.. I remember keeping my servos at neutral during binding which a lot of guys recommend and makes good sense too imo. BUT, the question now remains, why when reaching a low enough voltage, were my servos getting turned just about all the way to one side- which would have been full throttle and just about full lock out steering to the left in my case. !!!!
Anyhow, I just tested my failsafe setting about 8 times via turning off my radio while keeping the receiver power on and both servos were hitting neutral everytime, pheeew...
03-13-2013, 07:57 PM
#9214
Okay guys, is it really needed to route the fuel line around the splash guard and by the spur gear? I have mine routed on the side of the tank next to the HOT EXHAUST pipe (errrrks me so much Team Durango, bad design imo but thats a whole nother rant)- It should run okay with this stock routing set up right?
03-13-2013, 10:04 PM
#9215
Tech Regular
03-14-2013, 08:18 AM
#9216
Here's what I did. All using tekno servo mounts and the stock tray and 2 risers for the fuel tank.
03-14-2013, 07:09 PM
#9221
Something subtle in that picture... I shaved a few mm off the plastic servo mounts allowing me to move the servo further inboard. I also reversed the servo so the servo horn is at the front of the car not the rear. I had to use the turnbuckle from the brake to join the steering tie rod ends together (much shorter). Its all looking pretty good. Looking forward to getting it on the track this weekend at AMS.
Last edited by Gump; 03-14-2013 at 07:23 PM.
03-14-2013, 07:13 PM
#9222
No carbon fiber on mine. The bracket is the aluminum battery hold down from a Caster EX1.5R cut to length. The carbon fiber is actually 3M DiNoc. The battery is wrapped in standard black shrink wrap from a local electronics supply chain called Sayal. And if anyone is interested, the plastic standoffs are RPM long shank ball ends from a 10th scale with the balls cut off the end and drilled out. They just happen to fit very nicely and were on my bench. Still looking for nice golden aluminum standoffs if anyone has a suggestion.
03-14-2013, 07:17 PM
#9223
Okay guys, is it really needed to route the fuel line around the splash guard and by the spur gear? I have mine routed on the side of the tank next to the HOT EXHAUST pipe (errrrks me so much Team Durango, bad design imo but thats a whole nother rant)- It should run okay with this stock routing set up right?
When I was at the NAT's last year, I installed the longer line and fuel filter for extra capacity OUTSIDE of the tank to keep me running longer on my lid. It still passed the tests for fuel capacity all weekend long.
03-15-2013, 09:15 AM
#9225
Tech Regular
More room for the battery in case you want to put it in front. That's pretty much the main and only reason to do it.
