Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.
03-11-2013, 08:30 PM
#9196
You might get lucky on eBay, that's where I found mine. Guy said it was used but looked brand new when I got it in the mail.. So guess I can't complain,
Never mind nothing on ebay
I've noticed quite a few things being out of stock on amain lately. One is the dnx408 is on back order. Could this mean something like a new car coming or just selling a lot of 408's
Never mind nothing on ebay
I've noticed quite a few things being out of stock on amain lately. One is the dnx408 is on back order. Could this mean something like a new car coming or just selling a lot of 408's
03-11-2013, 09:25 PM
#9198
03-11-2013, 11:04 PM
#9199
Running the car without a filter for a couple passes in front of your house won't hurt anything (unless you live on a dirt road). After I wash my dirt bike, I do a couple passes in front of my house to dry the brakes, and to get the water out of some of the areas. This is also with no filter because after washing the bike the filter has water on it and I would rather not suck water into the engine. The filter on my dirtbike is a twin foam element, soaked in filter oil (the same oil I use on my RC filters). If it is okay for my $7000+ dirt bike, you can bet it is fine for a $200+ toy car engine. Could a tiny rock get flung into the engine? Sure, but the likelihood of that happening is so slim that I would be more worried about your car being run over by a real car, as it is much more likely to happen. Also, I have watched many, 1000+ hp drag cars test fire their engines without a filter. Again, if it is okay for a $30000+ dragster engine, your toy car will be fine.
As for your actual question. Unless the filter boot is kinked to the point that it has a smaller opening than the carb insert, you will not have an issue (and running the car back to back with and without the filter/boot for a pass or two in front of your house will prove this). You could always post a picture. If you do, make sure it is out of focus, and dimly lit, so we can't see anything you are trying to show us.
I ask you this. With all of your concerns about this filter boot, how often do you change the filter. Because unless your answer is every race, a dirty filter is far more of a concern.
As for your actual question. Unless the filter boot is kinked to the point that it has a smaller opening than the carb insert, you will not have an issue (and running the car back to back with and without the filter/boot for a pass or two in front of your house will prove this). You could always post a picture. If you do, make sure it is out of focus, and dimly lit, so we can't see anything you are trying to show us.
I ask you this. With all of your concerns about this filter boot, how often do you change the filter. Because unless your answer is every race, a dirty filter is far more of a concern.
03-11-2013, 11:09 PM
#9200
Hey guys, how has the heat shield tape on the battery box been working? I **** hope I dont start puffing lipo receiver batts when I start running this thing...
03-12-2013, 04:37 AM
#9201
I've had it on the battery box since I built the car. I've ran five tanks through it the other day back to back. I haven't had any issues yet.
This is what I use.http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010408
This is what I use.http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010408
03-12-2013, 07:46 AM
#9202
I used two posts down to the side guard along with a piece of carbon fiber under battery. The battery doesn't sit on the carbon fiber it just stiffens up side guard. The top carbon piece zip ties to battery, but then battery removal is easy only two screws on top.
03-12-2013, 05:26 PM
#9203
The other night my lipo receiver pack was starting to get low on voltage and all of a sudden the throttle and steering servo started taking a mind of their own by slow twitching a couple times and then both servos turning all the way to one side and holding there. I think its entering the fail safe mode? But I haven't set anything specifically on my DX3R Pro for fail safe, just using it "stock" so to speak. I thought the default fail safe was neutral on Spektrum stuff. Or is there definitely a "default" fail safe on Spektrum stuff? I thought there was, but I need to know for sure how it works or what I need to do to make sure this thing never runs away from me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
03-12-2013, 08:06 PM
#9204
Tech Regular
The other night my lipo receiver pack was starting to get low on voltage and all of a sudden the throttle and steering servo started taking a mind of their own by slow twitching a couple times and then both servos turning all the way to one side and holding there. I think its entering the fail safe mode? But I haven't set anything specifically on my DX3R Pro for fail safe, just using it "stock" so to speak. I thought the default fail safe was neutral on Spektrum stuff. Or is there definitely a "default" fail safe on Spektrum stuff? I thought there was, but I need to know for sure how it works or what I need to do to make sure this thing never runs away from me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
03-12-2013, 09:24 PM
#9206
Here's my take on mounting the battery to the mudguard - took a slightly different approach...
I also chopped the end of the radio box off...
And cut the radio tray into two pieces while I was at it...
I also chopped the end of the radio box off...
And cut the radio tray into two pieces while I was at it...
03-12-2013, 09:43 PM
#9207
The other night my lipo receiver pack was starting to get low on voltage and all of a sudden the throttle and steering servo started taking a mind of their own by slow twitching a couple times and then both servos turning all the way to one side and holding there. I think its entering the fail safe mode? But I haven't set anything specifically on my DX3R Pro for fail safe, just using it "stock" so to speak. I thought the default fail safe was neutral on Spektrum stuff. Or is there definitely a "default" fail safe on Spektrum stuff? I thought there was, but I need to know for sure how it works or what I need to do to make sure this thing never runs away from me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If at any time you make a significant change to your settings on the radio, or even swap the servo for another one, your failsafe position is sure to change.
Before you re-bind your receiver to the radio, there are a couple of things you should do:
1: Go to Reset. Scroll down to Parameters. When prompted to reset parameters select Yes. You are then prompted to cycle the controls. This means move the steering wheel lock to lock several times and also the throttle/brake full throw both directions several times. Once you've done that, turn the scroll wheel so that the word 'SAVE' on the screen becomes highlighted. Push in the scroll wheel to 'SAVE'. You have basically now reset how the radio reads your potentiometer's center positions and full throw positions, as well as all points in between. You should do this every couple of race weekends. There are potential problems long-term if you do not.
2. Now go and fine tune your settings again. Start with sub-trims to make sure the servos are centered. Then to travel. Then to your regular trim. Re-do your dual rate if you use it. Just make sure the servos are performing exactly as you want them to and that everything is straight and centered.
3. Now rebind your receiver. Once its bound you can test your failsafe position by shutting off your transmitter only and watching to see where the servos go. If they go off somewhere other than neutral, try re-binding again. If that fails, try setting up a different model memory (yes, that can actually solve a couple of problems on these radios).
03-13-2013, 04:06 AM
#9208
Suspended
I have nitro RC car but I wish I was able to get my hands on one, I think it's one neat car. The DEX410 has proven itself in 10th scale so I bet the 408 is likewise.
03-13-2013, 08:35 AM
#9209
Here's another picture
03-13-2013, 07:31 PM
#9210
Tech Regular
Exactly how I have mine, except I stood my servo up so I could move the battery forward a little more.
