GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

Ok so some have asked me some questions on my car. here is a bunch of pics hopefully to satisfy

Losi 8ight finisher body

showing how i cut out the body

kyosho arms. when dremeling them make them the right size to where there is no shims needed in the front or rear

the hubs to show how much spacing was needed

a pic of the sway bar attachment. predrill a hole in that location and run a screw through it. works great

GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

continued


if you cut the bottom tab off the diff case and put a set screw in the top one you can lower the angle of the rear drive shaft. doing so will help with power transfer and life of the cvd.when doing this you will have to cut the battery box as well as some of the tray and grind down the rear motor mount a bit to help clear the drive shaft

i have cut the tray just passed the throttle servo. i left the mounting screw there and cut just passed it



i have relocated a hump pack to the front. using the remaining of the left over tray and using the rear tank riser to secure the battery to the mud gaurd. you can also put a stick pack there and just zip tie it to the mud gaurd. hump pack offers a little more weight up front. as well you can see the servo standing up. use tekno universal servo mounts. work great.will require to drill 3 new holes in the chassis and countersink them. (not for rookies)

another view of the tank riser'




any other questions just ask. feel free to share.
also if you would like a setup sheet that i use as my base feel free to ask and i can email it to you

thanks hope you guys and gals like

tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

Thanks man. Great info and reference. Will be looking at this in more detail next month as Spring approaches....

Iggy 102

iTrader: (4)

Is it truly better do all them mods??

GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

personaly i felt a big difference with lowering the rear diff angle and putting a stick pack up front.

standing the servo up is only necessary if you want to run a hump style pack lipo

but i would suggest doing the diff mod.. more acceleration..smoother drivetrain.. and smoother accerlation

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Do you have any pics of the diff mod? Also I'm assuming you cut the case to drop it down. Did you put anything above the key too keep it from shifting back up? Thanks.

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

There is a much easier way to improve the front and rear CVD: Get a set of Mugen 2.5mm pins, cut them to length and slot them and use them instead of the stock TD CVD pins. The stock pins are about 2.4mm and cause slop in the CVD, which returns in wear on the holes in the CVD. With the thicker pins, the slop is gone without any binding and the wear is significantly reduced.

tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

Thanks Edwin and Gomer , great ideas .

GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

What I do is predrill a hole in the top one and insert a small set screw. And just tighten or loosen to reach desired size.

Ill try and get pics when I do my diffs this week.

GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

Good find man.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Thank you sir! I would appreciate that.

Torian4000

iTrader: (51)

Good info guys! I've already done the battery forward mod and will do some testing when racing starts around here in April.

Torian4000

iTrader: (51)

Isn't this the DNX408 thread?

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

As for a more thread specific post. My DNX408 will be undergoing an off season rebuild soon.

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

infractions have been given out. if you are not here to talk about the car you run. you will be leaving this thread.. thank you..