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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 09-19-2012, 10:00 AM
  #8521  
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
I tested with the dual position c-hubs (12 degree) when I initially got the DNX408 and before the new white springs were available and it worked ok. Now that I have the updated springs, I have switched back to the stock (10 degree) c-hubs and the car is more responsive than with the 12 degree c-hubs. I have the white/red fronts and the white/blue rears on my setup, just like the setup from Ryan Lutz at the 2012 Nats. The only difference in my setup is that I did the rear shock mod and went out one shock hole on the tower to get a little more 'pop'. The car is very stable with that setup and can be pushed really hard, especially coming out of turns!
Thanks man. good info. I have the 10 degree Dual hubs setup stock right now. Will play with them this weekend (i.e with the new setting).

I have a pair white/blue rears on deck , and with the shock mod our setups are very similar.

I also moved my battery forward and liked it, did seem to help keep the front a little more planted.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:40 AM
  #8522  
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
The only difference in my setup is that I did the rear shock mod and went out one shock hole on the tower to get a little more 'pop'. The car is very stable with that setup and can be pushed really hard, especially coming out of turns!
I'd like to try the rear shock mod, did you notice a difference in handling when you did this?

Also do you just flip the arms or do you have to switch them L-R and flip?
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:44 AM
  #8523  
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Originally Posted by EvanAZ
I'd like to try the rear shock mod, did you notice a difference in handling when you did this?

Also do you just flip the arms or do you have to switch them L-R and flip?
Yes, the car does handle a little different with the shock mod. The main reason I prefer this setup is because the shocks will be further away from the exhaust, thus the shock fluid (especially left side) will not heat up as much, resulting in a more consistent shock handling. I did have to setup the shocks a little more to get the same amount of pop as without the shock mod.

Switch left and right for the arms.

http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/upl...ard-Shocks.jpg
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:26 AM
  #8524  
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
Yes, the car does handle a little different with the shock mod. The main reason I prefer this setup is because the shocks will be further away from the exhaust, thus the shock fluid (especially left side) will not heat up as much, resulting in a more consistent shock handling. I did have to setup the shocks a little more to get the same amount of pop as without the shock mod.

Switch left and right for the arms.

http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/upl...ard-Shocks.jpg
Thanks for the info, I've had a Losi 8ight and have a 8ight T and a HHH Hara and all the shocks are on the rear. So will give this mod a try to see if it feels like what I've been use too.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:57 PM
  #8525  
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Anyone got a set up for the buggy to suit a slippery to medium grip track?
Thanks
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:52 PM
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The bigggest change I did to my buggy for our track in wisconsin which is a hardpacked farm dirt that gets pretty dusty was changing diff fluids to 5-7-3.

I have the 2mm shock mod, but other wise it is pretty much stock.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:18 AM
  #8527  
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Hey guys any word on when the new updated geometry for will out for us to get our hands on i am really looking forward to trying some new stuff on the car.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:37 AM
  #8528  
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i figure some one looking for a fresh car or a spare may be looking i'm selling a brand new one!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11255985
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:40 PM
  #8529  
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Hi guys, quick question for some help.
I have this problem with my Durango. After i complete a warm up tank and then refill for some timed laps at the local track (say about 10 mins runtime or thereabouts), at some point the engine will flame out. Sometimes i feel it that it will do couple of interruptions (like someone cutting fuel for split second of time) and then it will flame out. Its not the spark plug (chnaged to new couple of times) or dirt in the engine. This is very annoying as every time im on qualifying session putting some good lap times or during the heat of them race the car is almost certain to flame out.

My buggy is v2 updated with Alpha engine and pipe. Im using byron high nitromethane (cant remember the number now, maybe 30%). I have narrowed it down to couple of possible causes, but i would really appreciate your help as the raxe is on this weekend.

1. engine temp too high (engine is tuned correctly and i get 8 mins runtime approx)
2. Fuel line probs (too short, maybe need to re-route away from stock config and round the fuel tank)

Any ideas?
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:36 PM
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Hello members,
I am currently looking at a few cars and wanting to get one before a race in 3 weeks. I was looking at this one and i love the look of it! I heard that it has some bad vibrations and its a little squirly. Can you help me out why i should get it?
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cyguardian
Hi guys, quick question for some help.
I have this problem with my Durango. After i complete a warm up tank and then refill for some timed laps at the local track (say about 10 mins runtime or thereabouts), at some point the engine will flame out. Sometimes i feel it that it will do couple of interruptions (like someone cutting fuel for split second of time) and then it will flame out. Its not the spark plug (chnaged to new couple of times) or dirt in the engine. This is very annoying as every time im on qualifying session putting some good lap times or during the heat of them race the car is almost certain to flame out.

My buggy is v2 updated with Alpha engine and pipe. Im using byron high nitromethane (cant remember the number now, maybe 30%). I have narrowed it down to couple of possible causes, but i would really appreciate your help as the raxe is on this weekend.

1. engine temp too high (engine is tuned correctly and i get 8 mins runtime approx)
2. Fuel line probs (too short, maybe need to re-route away from stock config and round the fuel tank)

Any ideas?
Your engine is too rich on the bottom or you are probably due for an engine pinch because as it gets hotter you are losing compression.

One other item to consider. Is it after you flip the car? This is the only time my engine will studder like this but not flame out. While it's upside down it will suck in some air since it does not have a clunk in the tank. I make sure not give it any throttle while it's upside down.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:17 AM
  #8532  
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Originally Posted by cyguardian
Hi guys, quick question for some help.
I have this problem with my Durango. After i complete a warm up tank and then refill for some timed laps at the local track (say about 10 mins runtime or thereabouts), at some point the engine will flame out. Sometimes i feel it that it will do couple of interruptions (like someone cutting fuel for split second of time) and then it will flame out. Its not the spark plug (chnaged to new couple of times) or dirt in the engine. This is very annoying as every time im on qualifying session putting some good lap times or during the heat of them race the car is almost certain to flame out.

My buggy is v2 updated with Alpha engine and pipe. Im using byron high nitromethane (cant remember the number now, maybe 30%). I have narrowed it down to couple of possible causes, but i would really appreciate your help as the raxe is on this weekend.

1. engine temp too high (engine is tuned correctly and i get 8 mins runtime approx)
2. Fuel line probs (too short, maybe need to re-route away from stock config and round the fuel tank)

Any ideas?
It could be a number of things, but I doubt its related to the car unless you had a bad clutch bearing or something. Firstly, did you have the same issues with your previous 1/8th Buggy (assuming this isn't your first)?

Engine temp would be too high if it was too lean or geared incorrectly. You'd feel or hear the engine if heat was the case. If it sounds/feels normal at lower speeds i.e blipping the throttle, then its likely not heat.

You may have an air leak thats making the engine go lean once it reaches running temp. I'd check your fuel line & pressure line for leaks. Even just replace it all.
Also seal the engine, backplate and Carb. Use an engine sealant like (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Sealant-15cc).

Usually in cases like this when it randomly flames out, its usually in the first few mins as its coming up to temp, and I'd say your maybe a tad lean on the bottom end and would richen it an hour. But this maybe not the case if its later on in the run.

You also might try posting your questions on the Alpha thread on here. Good Luck buddy.
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:52 AM
  #8533  
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Wow guys, amazing responses. Thnk you so much. I really think its the air leak issue as posted by tobamiester above as i can now recall from the last race that i could see constant flow of airbubbles in the fuel line leading tonthe carburetor. I have changed all fuel lines and re-routed for more level flow. I will test this afternoon and let you know how it goes. Really thanks a lot
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:27 PM
  #8534  
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I keep blowing out rear shock bladders. I try to be gentle when installing the cap but it seems like I get 2-3 runs and they blow out. I am running losi bladders and the vented caps. I have not had any issues on the truggy or with the front shocks only rears on the buggy. Just curious if there was any other things I can do.

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:02 PM
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Hello, I just traded for a couple DEX408's. I was going to wait to get one but I did trade for 1. Besides getting the update kit, is there anything else I should look at getting to have it on the same playing field as my DEX408?

Thanks for any help.....
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