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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 12-26-2010, 10:07 AM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
Ok all ready for the track. The only thing I had to mod was the rear chassis brace the engine was hitting it and it wouldn't let me set the cb/spur mesh. Everything went together nicely. Btw I suck at painting come on Chad I need that wrap!! But the chrome paint is cool





I'm hurrying Frank! Just got one more test fit to do to make sure its perfect.
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:03 AM
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Car looks great man!
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmiprice
Is your car brand new ?
Mine was the same until it had its first run and bedded in, it went out at 34mm and 1/2 way thru practise it was dragging itself along the floor !
Your right on the kit springs they are super stiff ! Mine is on Losi springs now as i gave up waiting for TD ones to come into stock !
Glad to hear it wasn't just me bollocksing-up the build

I"m almost done with the build, and I have a few comments/tips.

-First, the diffs do tend to feel a little rough compared to certain other cars, leading me to suspect that they might benefit from a break-in. Also, I really have to wonder if those little outdrive covers are even necessary, given the fact that they don't tend to stay in place very well. An area for revision, perhaps?

-Drivetrain: considerable resistance here as well, especially compared to the MP9. I suspect that the rubber boots on the outer CVDs may contribute to this, but once again, it may simply be a matter of allowing the parts to break-in. The boots fit superbly though.

-Plastics: look to be good quality; the material for the arms reminds me of XRAY material, and as such they will probably take a lot of abuse, though they may also develop some bow over time. I would advise caution when tightening screws into certain plastic parts, both hard and soft: if you overtighten on the former it might split, whereas with the softer stuff, it's really important to pay close attention to avoid stripping or squashing it. The fact that certain plastics are so soft makes it a bit hard to gauge between a screw that's snug and one that's overtightened.

-I don't know about anyone else, but my rear diff/brace assembly was un-Godly tight! It may be just 6 screws to access the rear diff case, but it feels as though you'd need a prybar to get the housing out. The whole assembly seems really bullet-proof though.

-Fuel tank: be sure to check the screws that hold the cap assembly down, mine was a little loose and upon inspection I noticed that the screw holes in the tank were stripped and a tad shallow for the screws. No biggie though, a drill bit and a bit of CA glue fixed that. Just a little detail to watch for

Love the tank's overall design. The only suggestion I could make for revision would be to incorporate a lip/splash-guard that goes all the way around the top and higher in the area over the steering servo. This way we won't have to worry about giving the servo an unwanted fuel bath during quick/messy pit stops.

Center diff: while the area seems really tight and painful to access, it actually requites fewer screws to be undone to reach it than the 2 other diffs. That is to say, the 4 top engine screws, pipe mount screw, then the 4 on the top of the diff. I also noticed that if you apply just a tad more elbow grease when tightening the brake pad retaining screws, you won't need to add washers to get the discs to lock upon braking. To be attempted at the builder's discretion.

Radio tray: while some may be displeased with the fact that it's a bit fiddly to get out, it's really just 9 screws, and they're all topside, which is a BIG plus IMHO. Better to have to undo 9 screws from the top than 5 or six from the bottom, which requires more acrobatics and may actually be longer overall. The one revision I would like to see here is a slightly bigger receiver box, if possible.

At first, a lot of the car's innovations seemed overdesigned and excessive, but once you get around to seeing them and working on them yourself, you really get to appreciate all the thought that went into the design of the car. 2 big thumbs up for Durango!!
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Old 12-26-2010, 01:47 PM
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Thanks captain america, that was a great ..honest post...KEEP THEM COMMING GUYS!
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Old 12-26-2010, 04:22 PM
  #815  
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Originally Posted by captain america
Glad to hear it wasn't just me bollocksing-up the build

I"m almost done with the build, and I have a few comments/tips.

-First, the diffs do tend to feel a little rough compared to certain other cars, leading me to suspect that they might benefit from a break-in. Also, I really have to wonder if those little outdrive covers are even necessary, given the fact that they don't tend to stay in place very well. An area for revision, perhaps?

-Drivetrain: considerable resistance here as well, especially compared to the MP9. I suspect that the rubber boots on the outer CVDs may contribute to this, but once again, it may simply be a matter of allowing the parts to break-in. The boots fit superbly though.

-Plastics: look to be good quality; the material for the arms reminds me of XRAY material, and as such they will probably take a lot of abuse, though they may also develop some bow over time. I would advise caution when tightening screws into certain plastic parts, both hard and soft: if you overtighten on the former it might split, whereas with the softer stuff, it's really important to pay close attention to avoid stripping or squashing it. The fact that certain plastics are so soft makes it a bit hard to gauge between a screw that's snug and one that's overtightened.

-I don't know about anyone else, but my rear diff/brace assembly was un-Godly tight! It may be just 6 screws to access the rear diff case, but it feels as though you'd need a prybar to get the housing out. The whole assembly seems really bullet-proof though.

-Fuel tank: be sure to check the screws that hold the cap assembly down, mine was a little loose and upon inspection I noticed that the screw holes in the tank were stripped and a tad shallow for the screws. No biggie though, a drill bit and a bit of CA glue fixed that. Just a little detail to watch for

Love the tank's overall design. The only suggestion I could make for revision would be to incorporate a lip/splash-guard that goes all the way around the top and higher in the area over the steering servo. This way we won't have to worry about giving the servo an unwanted fuel bath during quick/messy pit stops.

Center diff: while the area seems really tight and painful to access, it actually requites fewer screws to be undone to reach it than the 2 other diffs. That is to say, the 4 top engine screws, pipe mount screw, then the 4 on the top of the diff. I also noticed that if you apply just a tad more elbow grease when tightening the brake pad retaining screws, you won't need to add washers to get the discs to lock upon braking. To be attempted at the builder's discretion.

Radio tray: while some may be displeased with the fact that it's a bit fiddly to get out, it's really just 9 screws, and they're all topside, which is a BIG plus IMHO. Better to have to undo 9 screws from the top than 5 or six from the bottom, which requires more acrobatics and may actually be longer overall. The one revision I would like to see here is a slightly bigger receiver box, if possible.

At first, a lot of the car's innovations seemed overdesigned and excessive, but once you get around to seeing them and working on them yourself, you really get to appreciate all the thought that went into the design of the car. 2 big thumbs up for Durango!!
very good but i notice after you have the diff's in and out a few times they get easier to remove and install plus they have to be aligned just right one mod i did to the gas tank was to cut out the tabs in the throught of the opening because i had a hard time with fuel splashing every were on fast pits but now it works fine, i would like to see a clunk in there i noticed the car didnt run long on its lid but could have been my tune, i need more time on my lid..... NOT!! also any word on when the upgrades are come out TD? I really like the car and can't wait for the truggy...... GO DURANGO!
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:59 PM
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goin to fill my shocks tomorrow what shock oil wts should i start with. i will be using losi oil.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:13 PM
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Mate came around before with his durango and put it on the scales. 3440g with no body or fuel. She's a heavyweight.
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shanef
Mate came around before with his durango and put it on the scales. 3440g with no body or fuel. She's a heavyweight.
Yeah, thats still lighter than my stock team odonnell at 3580 non-lipo lol.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shanef
Mate came around before with his durango and put it on the scales. 3440g with no body or fuel. She's a heavyweight.
He must have very heavy motor and servos. Mine weighed 3370 with body, savox servos, lipo, vp tires and werks b6.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shanef
Mate came around before with his durango and put it on the scales. 3440g with no body or fuel. She's a heavyweight.
Maybe So at this time. Just waiting for the Carbon Fibre Upgrades.

At Least Our Durango 5mm Chassis's will last the Life of the Car. Can you say the Same?

We did find that you could save some weight on your Tire/Rim Choice.

I did get a Losi Clutch/Flywheel to fit, so I can use the Losi 4-Shoes Clutch and Starter Box I have. Tho I Had to mod the Flywheel gap with a Die-Grinder.

Baby hasnt seen a Track yet. Too much rain and still waiting on some Parts.

Last edited by TrickyMick; 12-26-2010 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptain crash
Thanks captain america, that was a great ..honest post...KEEP THEM COMMING GUYS!
+1 no fan boys. like the honest post
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:33 PM
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i dont know the weights of the others but how does it stack up to a mbx6 or 8ight?
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by chickenfarmer
I'm hurrying Frank! Just got one more test fit to do to make sure its perfect.
Cool. Btw I never received a paypal request. Sends a pm with the info and price and I'll get it over to you. In qng wait to make this sweet car look like it should.

Originally Posted by pballer2777
goin to fill my shocks tomorrow what shock oil wts should i start with. i will be using losi oil.
I went with 42.5/ 37.5 and it seems to work well.

______________

Well infiy got my car on the track today and Iike it. The springs are to stiff but I found that Losi springs are the exact same length and diameter. The car ran well and I finished about the same as I would have with the Losi. Overall the car works very well. I'm still learning. I ended up with green Losi sorings in the rear. But the car looks unreal on thw track. I kept thinking it's a sexy looking car on the track and then it was proved. I flipped in the center of the track and no one was around. Then a chick dressed all in white runs out there and flips just my car. I still need to play with the droop, diff oils, shock springs and i really need sone lighter clutch springs. The car is a tank I haven weighed it but I think it weighs more than my mbx6t. But the car just works. Great job durango.

Btw will Mugen springs and shoes work in the durango clutch? Of some other brand. I need some 6061 shoes and .9 springs?
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:48 PM
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My agama weighs 3260 with light weight options and my losi 2.0 weighed 3477. I think my buddies mbx6 weighed 3390 with lightweight option parts.
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:03 PM
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While the car might not be the lightest thing out there, it seems VERY sturdy. I think even Ryan mentioned that aside from his servo issue, the car was able to cope with the warzone of a track in Pattaya better than pretty much any other car.

Between a few carbon fiber bits, a decent lipo and some titanium hardware, I think it's possible to shave about 3 ounces off the car if someone really wants to. In fact, during the next month or 2, I'm going to talk to someone I know that has a machine shop to see if I can get some diff outdrives and maybe the ring gears machined in titanium. This would REALLY lighten the drivetrain and I suspect that it may not suffer too much with regards to durability either. If anything, it may make for an interesting experiment.
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